What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (62 Viewers)

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new input and output seals in my transfer. man do i wish i had the big tranny cover you guys in the states have. then i could remove the whole gear box and transfer without having to either pull the engine or the tub.

also put in my new seat belts. feels weird having belts now. but glad to have em.
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just when i think the last project was going to be the worst... started on the roof today. what a pain: never ending sanding and thats just the beginning :frown: i though i could maybe get away with leaving the gutter on but i think that the only way to really get it straight and rust free is to separate it from the top

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I started the fiberglass top repair last week. The spider cracks are going to take forever to clean out with a Dremel burr and fill with epoxy but I believe the end will justify the time it takes. For the rain gutter, mine was fairly well wasted with rust so I ordered one from CCOT. Their 5 week delivery time took 9 weeks but it appears to be well made.
 
As you may, or may not! have heard... when returning from our last 44 trip, in 108* heat, 44's fuel pressure gauge started showing 0 psi, from the aux fuel pump. I switched to the main fuel pump and, with 4 psi, we trucked on.

A while later, the main dropped to 0 psi. I switched to aux, 4 psi, and we trucked on.

After the third or fourth time, I found switching to the other pump didn't help... 0 psi on both pumps... We pulled over, popped the hood and I poured ice on Chester's bed, under his belly, to keep him cool.

I was going to bypass the Pollak, eliminating the electronics and wire directly to the main pump... But, 44's headers run at 450* on a warm day and it was way too hot to work in the engine compartment... So, I figure we'd just limp home.

After about 10 minutes, I started her back up, with 4 psi And we trucked on... Until it next occurred... Sometimes, I could flick the DPDT switch and continue on... Other times, we had to pull over and pop the hood for a few minutes... always refreshing Chester's ice bed.

I think we had to pull over 17 times and cool off... But, truthfully, I tasked Chester with keeping a count and he let me down.

Anyway, we made it home... A long, hot trip... the next day, 44 wouldn't start... 0 psi on both pumps.

Long story, longer... I carry spares for every part in this fuel delivery system and I assumed the heat was messing with one of the electric parts.

I swapped out the Pollak Switching Valve and the main fuel pump started pumping at 4psi... But, the aux pump showed 0 psi. I crawled under and swapped to my spare pump... No change... I put the meter on it and found only 4.5v... Not enough to make the pump... Pump.

I crawled under the oil filter and disconnected the Oil Pressure Safety Switch... Trust me, it's difficult to troubleshoot with the OPSS connected.

I then went to the DPDT switch on the dash and metered the main pump circuit at 10.5v and the aux pump circuit at 4.5v.

This anomaly is very curious... For two years, I have had this fuel system set up, to be powered from the coil+, and never had a problem with it... Now, the same wire feeds to the DPDT... The DPDT switches between main and aux... And, yet, the main always gets the full Monty and the aux only gets about half.

I swapped the DPDT and found the very same result... Not enough umpf to run the aux pump... I reached out to Rudi and he gave me a couple of suggestions... I filed them away, hooked the trailer to the Tundra and we went to Northern New Mexico for about three weeks of delightful cool mountain air and afternoon thunderstorms... We had a great time!!

Returning home, I went over every inch of 44, looking for a short that was energizing the frame or body... Nothing...

I then went over the fuel electronics, yet again and metered the coil, finding that the voltage fluctuated between 10.5v and 4.5v... I don't know whether this is normal or not... But, why would it always be 10.5v for the main pump and 4.5v for the aux pump?!?

At any rate, I decided to change the fuel electronics feed to a different switched source... I found the 'extra' voltage regulator wire (never used) is hot, when the ignition is on, so I wired to that source.

Voila!! Problem solved... Fuel system fixed!!

I rewired the OPSS and all is good in 44's world again... So, I'm hooking the trailer to the Tundra and we're heading out again for a few weeks... I just wanted to be sure Chester and I could get after it, when we return.

Life is great!!

P.S. If anyone feels any of this indicates my coil is failing, please speak up. I carry a spare, but I haven't been able to find any real info on this.
 
Today is my birthday. Wife is on roadtrip with my son driving from Oregon to Kentucky for college. Spent my evening after work final sanding the 40 to ready for paint. Sister and 5 year old neice gave me a Diet Coke and Happy Birthday baloon. Beautiful sunset over the Columbia River with the smoke from the Candaian forest fires filtering the sun. A very good day.
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Happy Birthday. good progress on the FJ40!
 
got out the jigsaw and made up a new center console. its a little on the thin side due to the wide seats, but it turned out nice and is plenty big enough to hold most anything. and who doesnt like a bit of wood in their 40? if only i had noticed that glue running sooner :rolleyes:
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also had a partial lunar eclipse last night. our 4x4 group chat was going nuts with everyone running outside to look at the moon

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one of the gems from our group. guy who posted this up is a proper cruiser head, but a 70 series guy. he makes his living fixing rolled 75's and dropping 1VD's, the 4.5 turbo diesel v8, into them.
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@pngunme curious with the voltage regulator. One of my wires was snipped, cooked a battery, reconnected that wire and now all good. I will never know why that wire was snipped.............
 
Yep, York is for OBA. It's on my list to get it plumbed.

It's the 210 model pump.
Nice, I've got a 210 for the same purpose.
How are you going to hook it up?
 
Removed the "prototype" 4L60e transmission oil pan originally built to clear the stock Toyota FJ40 U-joint and slip yoke......

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.....and fabricated something a little more sanitary. I have changed to a Marlin Crawler long-spline slip yoke that makes this extra clearance largely unnecessary, but I want to be able to put my original drive shaft back in an emergency.

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Nice, I've got a 210 for the same purpose.
How are you going to hook it up?

I've done tons of planning and part purchasing but haven't executed much other than mounting the pump. I'm running one of mudrack's brackets that allow you to mount the alternator off the side. Got a viar tank (i think 3 gallons) that will get mounted under the rear of the tub via the stock shock stud mounts. plumbing will use a the following in no particular order b/w the pump and tank:

Load genie unloading check valve (required since I plugged the oil galley passage which serves as an internal pressure relief) 18" braided hi-temp leader hose, check valve, distribution block, coalescing filter, filter/regulator combo, pressure relief valve and pressure switch relay. I'll likely use left over rapid air tubing from my shop's air piping install.

I'll document it in my build thread.
 
Came home to find that my awesome wife had taken the liberty of making and installing a cushion for the top of my new center console. Man I love her
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Came home to find that my awesome wife had taken the liberty of making and installing a cushion for the top of my new center console. Man I love her
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Cup holders next?
I wish mine had some. If I had a manual transmission I would really be in trouble.
 
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