What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (54 Viewers)

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Well... I did something that I thought was quite important. As a true turning point in the rebuild of my own FJ40, which I've had for well over 20 years, garaged & basically never driven, and which has been completely dissembled for the past 3-4 years - - I came to terms with a color scheme, as shown here, which is based on a 2-tone of olive drab.

For me, deciding on the color scheme (that I felt most reflected me, my out-of-the-box nature, and my soul for trekking the way-off-the-path outdoors) was paramount to moving forward. And for the life of me, and I contemplated deeply over the past 2-3 years, I could not cross an OEM color that was doing this for me. I've collected 1,000's of BJ40 & FJ40 photos from the Internet along the way - in seeking a best color scheme for me. Some most beautiful rigs out there, for sure !!

And although I have zero intention of selling the beloved '40 of mine, for me, the rebuild has also been a direct $$$ issue (I'm sure I'm not alone in this regard). In the scheme of things, here, its rebuild has unfortunately been (for too long) a super-low priority. Just getting by week to week has been more so the norm for me. However, I'm optimistic, and I'm now actively looking upward.

I basically have all the parts (most all of which are in zip-loc bags of various sizes), but as an artist, I've needed a clear, concise vision in my mind as to what my vehicle is to look like. Per my adventurous nature, mine will be a Real McCoy trail vehicle, and not at all a novelty item. It's already a resto-mod. Originally Sky Blue, its owner previous to me had painted it a super-attractive blue-green metallic, which PPG automotive paints determined was closest to Metallic Turquoise Green. A Suzuki Samurai color, they said. Myself, my entire family, and close friends loved the color, and still do - but it's far from OEM; and as a metallic, was less than native to the FJ40's more simple soul (some beautiful metallic ones out there though ! )

I extracted the image of the FJ40 below from the Internet. I found no name or info associated with it, merely that it's a '77. Unlike most, it though was olive drab, and to me, was about as cool-to-me of a color concept as I'd seen. I then altered the hue of its color of olive drab, and dropped the vehicle into a forest setting that I had myself photoed (as seen below).

My rig is a March 1979. I envision my rig's future Olive Drab concept to be a two-tone combination of 2-component (2K) single-stage industrial / commercial fleet-grade automotive paint (by PPG), and smoothly applied tinted 2K poly-urethane with ceramic particulate bedliner (by both U-Pol Raptor & Magnet Paints Monstaliner - each to be applied differently in different places). The industrial paint & tinted bedliner combo will be utilized both inside & out - adhering to both form & function, equally. Furthermore, on the tub's firewall; inside floor; and underside the tub will be an additional 2-part paint product, Lizard Skin, which is a resilient heat shield & sound deadener.

My restro-mod rebuild will consist mostly of all OEM components, most of which are original to the vehicle, except for a few performance-enhancing parts that I already have on-hand (HEI distributor, 38D Weber carb, ceramic coated headers - all 3 from Man-a-Fre). And I've already conjured some creative new twists to the vehicle, itself : a uniquely designed tailgate (which is of the likes of no one elses), a jerry can holder (4Plus basket) which is mounted to a mirrored spare tire tube frame - that I've modified for this; a custom-made arm rest that straddles the 1979 OEM floor tray; and embedded industrial tie-downs throughout the inside of the tub. It'll have a 2.5" OME lift, with OME Sport Shocks, with 33x10.5 tires. And a 4-Plus Aussie front bumper & bush guard - amongst other things. My rig already has its rear wheel wells cut-out (by previous owner) and will need the rear wheel flair (which I have a new replacement for my rig's old, cracked white ones). The black flair, seen here, would be augmented by the door's rocker panel in black Raptor.

msp_FJ40-ODconcept3(f).jpg


The tone of Olive Drab I aim to make use of will be exactly that used on AAHF Cobra 826, below (photo by me). In person, it looks AWESOME !! The paint is reported to have come from Sherwin-Williams Aerospace, and is called Gray-Black (or Black-Gray - I'm still not clear). Another hue of color, which I'm believing is extremely close is RAL 6006 "Gray Olive." Regardless, I can truly see my '40 proudly wearing the color below :
msp_FJ40-ODconcept3x1(f).jpg


Below is an air-to-air image I had made of Cobra 826 (I've made many). The hue of this olive drab color goes all the way to a stark greenish; but seen below, it's almost a bronze here.

msp_FJ40-ODconcept3x2(f).jpg

And yet one more example of the color, which I'd like to apply to my own FJ40 - under the setting sun, 826, below, is rendered almost a copper-bronze. (Air-to-air photo by me).
msp_FJ40-ODconcept3x3(f).jpg


Thanks for your continued input & support. I'm realizing this board has a complete spectrum of personal ideas, opinions, and philosophies - from around the world. And as always, I eagerly respect your input. Importantly though, I so badly want to "Get Er Done !!" ~Skydog.
 
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Well... I did something that I thought was quite important. As true turning point in the re-build of my own FJ40, which I've had for well over 20 years, garaged & basically never driven, and which has been completely dissembled for the past 3-4 years - - I came to terms with a color scheme, as shown here, which is based on a 2-tone of olive drab.

For me, deciding on the color scheme (that I felt most reflected me, my out-of-the-box nature, and my soul for trekking the way-off-the-path outdoors) was paramount to moving forward. And for the life of me, and I contemplated deeply over the past 2-3 years, I could not cross an OEM color that was doing this for me. I've collected 1,000's of FJ40 photos from the Internet along the way - in seeking a best color scheme for me. Some most beautiful rigs out there, for sure !!

And although I have zero intention of selling the beloved '40 of mine, for me, the rebuild has also been a direct $$$ issue (I'm sure I'm not alone in this regard). In the scheme of things, here, its rebuild has unfortunately been (for too long) a super-low priority. Just getting by week to week has been more so the norm for me. However, I'm optimistic, and I'm now actively looking upward.

I basically have all the parts (most all of which are in zip-loc bags of various sizes), but as an artist, I've needed a clear, concise vision in my mind as to what my vehicle is to look like. Per my adventurous nature, mine will be a Real McCoy trail vehicle, and not at all a novelty item. It's already a restro-mod. Originally Sky Blue, its owner previous to me had painted it a super-attractive blue-green metallic, which PPG automotive paints determined was closest to Metallic Turquoise Green. A Suzuki Samurai color, they said. Myself, my entire family, and close friends loved the color, and still do - but it's far from OEM; and as a metallic, was less than native to the FJ40's more simple soul (some beautiful metallic ones out there, though ! )

I extracted the image of the FJ40 below from the Internet. I found no name or info associated with it, merely that it's a '77. Unlike most, it though was olive drab, and to me, was about as cool-to-me of a color concept as I'd seen. I then altered the hue of its color of olive drab, and dropped the vehicle into a forest setting that I had myself photoed (as seen below).

My rig is a March 1979. I envision my rig's future Olive Drab concept to be a two-tone combination of 2-component (2K) single-stage industrial / commercial fleet-grade automotive paint (by PPG), and smoothly applied tinted 2K poly-urethane with ceramic particulate bedliner (by both U-Pol Raptor & Magnet Paints Monstaliner - each to be applied differently in different places). The industrial paint & tinted bedliner combo will be utilized both inside & out. Furthermore, on the tub's firewall; inside floor; and underside the tub will be an additional 2-part paint product, Lizard Skin, which is a resilient heat shield & sound deadener.

My restro-mod rebuild will consist mostly of all OEM components, most of which are original to the vehicle, except for a few performance-enhancing parts that I already have on-hand (HEI distributor, 38D Weber carb, ceramic coated headers - all 3 from Man-a-Fre). And I've already conjured some creative new twists to the vehicle, itself : a uniquely designed tailgate (which is of the likes of no one elses), a jerry can holder (4Plus basket) which is mounted to a mirrored spare tire tube frame - that I've modified for this; a custom-made arm rest that straddles the 1979 OEM floor tray; and embedded industrial tie-downs throughout the inside of the tub. It'll have a 2.5" OME lift, with OME Sport Shocks, with 33x10.5 tires. And a 4-Plus Aussie front bumper & bush guard - amongst other things. My rig already has its rear wheel wells cut-out (by previous owner) and will need the rear wheel flair (which I have a new replacement for the old, cracked white ones). The black flair, seen here, would be augmented by the door's rocker panel in black Raptor.

View attachment 1377169

The tone of Olive Drab I aim to make use of will be exactly that used on AAHF Cobra 826, below (photo by me). In person, it looks AWESOME !! The paint is reported to have come from Sherwin-Williams Aerospace, and is called Gray-Black (or Black-Gray - I'm still not clear). Another hue of color, which I'm believing is extremely close is RAL 6006 "Gray Olive." Regardless, I can truly see my '40 proudly wearing the color below :
View attachment 1377170

Below is an air-to-air image I had made of Cobra 826 (I've made many). The hue of this olive drab color goes all the way to a stark greenish; but seen below, it's almost a bronze here.

View attachment 1377171
And yet one more example of the color, which I'd like to apply to my own FJ40 - under the setting sun, 826, below, is rendered almost a copper-bronze. (Air-to-air photo by me).
View attachment 1377172

Thanks for your continued input & support. I'm realizing this board has a complete spectrum of personal ideas, opinions, and philosophies - from around the world. And as always, I eagerly respect your input. Importantly though, I so badly want to "Get Er Done !!" ~Skydog.

I have to hand it to you. 20+ years in the garage and you haven't driven it? Now that you've settled on a color get moving so you can enjoy driving it. Good luck.
 
I have to hand it to you. 20+ years in the garage and you haven't driven it? Now that you've settled on a color get moving so you can enjoy driving it. Good luck.


Roger That !! ... though the doggers & I luckily haven't been without a well-used Toyota... :-)
~Skydog

14434865_10210534562950197_5277355178378301250_o.jpg
 
Great pics blazer, what year is your Mustard 40?
 
Love that colour, I assume your military & have experience with the expression "Hurry up & wait" but 20yrs???

Well... I did something that I thought was quite important. As a true turning point in the rebuild of my own FJ40, which I've had for well over 20 years, garaged & basically never driven, and which has been completely dissembled for the past 3-4 years - - I came to terms with a color scheme, as shown here, which is based on a 2-tone of olive drab.
" ~Skydog.

Great pics, hope to see pics of your beast out of the ziplock bags & back where they belong Cheers
 
As it's the last week of holidays, I took the 43 for a spin


20170101_134550-2.jpg




20170101_124833.jpg



:cheers:
 
Got the battery install finished up:

IMG_0131.JPG


Pete
 
Hey Mark,

I completely forgot to check the pilot bushing before I mounted it on the stand...now it's behind the stand's mounting plate, this is the best I could do:

View attachment 1375786

And here is the transmission's input shaft -

View attachment 1375785

I don't see anything that I'd consider abnormal scoring or wear - just really grungy.

There IS a touch of play in the input shaft - maybe a mm or less - but definitely a tiny bit of wobble - not sure if that's normal/acceptable or more sinister.

I plan to completely separate the transmission and transfercase - just haven't made it that far yet. Once separated I can check for end play and check for tail shaft spline wear where the transfercase rides. My understanding is getting the two apart is a real b*tch so I'm not really in a hurry to get started!
In post 12761 you've got a pretty good view of the back of the crankshaft. If you don't have a bronze bushing sticking out past the crank, the input shaft was not properly supported.
 

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