What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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I installed a 4-core radiator from cruiser corps only to find out the drain bung is 1/2” more inboard than oem so you have to lift the radiator an inch or two to get fully remove the petcock through the hole in the rad support.

Also, installed a new thermostat from cruiser corps and realized theirs is 88°C and mine is 82°C.

I’m not totally sure i needed to replace anything and could have just had the oem rad cleaned out really well. It did have a pinhole leak at the cap but I think I soldered that pretty well.
 
Nothinghead said:
I installed a 4-core radiator from cruiser corps only to find out the drain bung is 1/2” more inboard than oem so you have to lift the radiator an inch or two to get fully remove the petcock through the hole in the rad support.

Also, installed a new thermostat from cruiser corps and realized theirs is 88°C and mine is 82°C.

I’m not totally sure i needed to replace anything and could have just had the oem rad cleaned out really well. It did have a pinhole leak at the cap but I think I soldered that pretty well.
Click to expand...


- does the new 4-core have a white plastic small wing-nut style petcock , that would use a black rubber washer type seal , almost like a this coin with a hole in the middle , NOT a typical eliotical round O-Ring is what im trying to say ?



- your were sent the incorrect part # Thermostat .... :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:

- all 1962 - 7 / 1980 Gasoline Engine Land Cruisers including :

- "Lamar" your 1965 FJ40 and assuming it still has it's Siamese F , or ....later F1.5 / 2F are all designed to run that cooler 82' C thermostat you pulled out to replace ...

- in 8/80 the FJ60 was introduced , and it came with the updated and HOTTER spec. 88' C

- i have run across this several times in my past , and know for a fact that after the correction step by steps , 82' C one is then installed , the Cluster Meter TEMP orange gauge needle was always notably closer to the middle or cooler by at least more then 1 single thickness of the needle it self


- the 88' C update change was a Emissions and Smog topic related , in your older F Series engine , and it's HOT summer Driving Season too now , things like your fuel boiling out of the float bowl , and or the Air Fuel mixture that was correct will Atomize prior to entering the Combustion Chamber

- the bottom line is its incorrect and wrong , this topic should be corrected and be a priority , taking a long drive out to the Arches Park would show you the effects of a 6' C increase hotter total engine and coolant temperature at the very least ,

82' C = 180' F

88' C = 190 F


= so using this formula now your engine is now actually running a full on 10' F Hotter ...

-

- below are the Rocket Science based OEM paper print media TOYOTA facts , email this screen shot to the place that sold you the Incorrect part here if they give you any grief , or tell you is does not matter ...........?

Because it DOES , and that now will matter to you very much ,.....


hope this helps :)

matt



...
31411968-858F-4AB2-B5D8-07DD9495C9AB.webp



C71B38C0-9DF1-4CAE-BA19-B12B7B4505C0.webp



F3677321-B510-4031-BD26-28C9FDFAF122.webp
 
Last edited:
ToyotaMatt said:
- does the new 4-core have a white plastic small wing-nut style petcock , that would use a black rubber washer type seal , almost like a this coin with a hole in the middle , NOT a typical eliotical round O-Ring is what im trying to say ?



- your were sent the incorrect part # Thermostat .... :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:

- all 1962 - 7 / 1980 Gasoline Engine Land Cruisers including :

- "Lamar" your 1965 FJ40 and assuming it still has it's Siamese F , or ....later F1.5 / 2F are all designed to run that cooler 82' C thermostat you pulled out to replace ...

- in 8/80 the FJ60 was introduced , and it came with the updated and HOTTER spec. 88' C

- i have run across this several times in my past , and know for a fact that after the correction step by steps , 82' C one is then installed , the Cluster Meter TEMP orange gauge needle was always notably closer to the middle or cooler by at least more then 1 single thickness of the needle it self


- the 88' C update change was a Emissions and Smog topic related , in your older F Series engine , and it's HOT summer Driving Season too now , things like your fuel boiling out of the float bowl , and or the Air Fuel mixture that was correct will Atomize prior to entering the Combustion Chamber

- the bottom line is its incorrect and wrong , this topic should be corrected and be a priority , taking a long drive out to the Arches Park would show you the effects of a 6' C increase hotter total engine and coolant temperature at the very least ,

82' C = 180' F

88' C = 190 F


= so using this formula now your engine is now actually running a full on 10' F Hotter ...

-

- below are the Rocket Science based OEM paper print media TOYOTA facts , email this screen shot to the place that sold you the Incorrect part here if they give you any grief , or tell you is does not matter ...........?

Because it DOES , and that now will matter to you very much ,.....


hope this helps :)

matt



...View attachment 3393947


View attachment 3393955


View attachment 3393948
Click to expand...
The radiator has a black plastic wing-nut petcock with round o-ring from what I can remember. It comes right out of the bottom of the radiator. My oem radiator drain was at the end of a 3-4” tube that passed through the front cross-member and had a brass petcock.

Lamar indeed still has the F135 motor. I’ll be putting the old thermostat back in and contact Cruisercorps about their mislabeled products. Both the oem thermostat which I purchased and the aftermarket thermostat state 82°C in their description.

Thanks so much for your help Matt.
 
V8FJ4078 said:
What does the bottom weatherstrip channel look like? Anyone find a way to make these yet? My dad has tried several things, but so small and hard to form.
Click to expand...
They would be time consuming to make, but doable. Finding the correct diameter tubing would be tough. I think it would have to be bent first to get the radius' and then cut the groove.

20230806_093058.webp


20230806_093106.webp


20230806_093128.webp
 
CondeCruiser said:
They would be time consuming to make, but doable. Finding the correct diameter tubing would be tough. I think it would have to be bent first to get the radius' and then cut the groove.

View attachment 3393983

View attachment 3393984

View attachment 3393985
Click to expand...
We searched for tubing thinking we could set something up to cut the groove, but haven't found it...if anyone knows where to find it let me know, I would try what we had started to work on before not finding any tubing.
 
pb4ugo said:
Not really, Its good to know your good to go for use under 3500 rpm with old style seats, but there's no mention as to why the seats could be damaged using unleaded fuel.
Click to expand...
This "RPM Quote" makes sense with my experience, having run unleaded in numerous older cars within no apparent issues THEN 15 years ago I bought a 1988? "stern drive" boat with a Mercuriser 350 that the owner had apparently changed out the engine with a pre-hardened seats automotive engine (steel freeze plugs kept rusting out) I knew the engine was weak when I bought it, ran it for a year... low compression on numerous cylinders. >> Boats tend to run high RPM's constantly... the valves had "beat themselves" deep into the valve seat.. it was amazing.. I had finally seen the "alleged" : ) unleaded / soft seat issue first hand. My 63" F still has OEM seats, and likley never ran addative and mostly ran under 3,500. Currently parked for re-rehab of body.. also had a 69 Toronado (455) that is still running original engine... recently sent to a new more appreciative owner.
 
ToyotaMatt said:
- does the new 4-core have a white plastic small wing-nut style petcock , that would use a black rubber washer type seal , almost like a this coin with a hole in the middle , NOT a typical eliotical round O-Ring is what im trying to say ?



- your were sent the incorrect part # Thermostat .... :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:

- all 1962 - 7 / 1980 Gasoline Engine Land Cruisers including :

- "Lamar" your 1965 FJ40 and assuming it still has it's Siamese F , or ....later F1.5 / 2F are all designed to run that cooler 82' C thermostat you pulled out to replace ...

- in 8/80 the FJ60 was introduced , and it came with the updated and HOTTER spec. 88' C

- i have run across this several times in my past , and know for a fact that after the correction step by steps , 82' C one is then installed , the Cluster Meter TEMP orange gauge needle was always notably closer to the middle or cooler by at least more then 1 single thickness of the needle it self


- the 88' C update change was a Emissions and Smog topic related , in your older F Series engine , and it's HOT summer Driving Season too now , things like your fuel boiling out of the float bowl , and or the Air Fuel mixture that was correct will Atomize prior to entering the Combustion Chamber

- the bottom line is its incorrect and wrong , this topic should be corrected and be a priority , taking a long drive out to the Arches Park would show you the effects of a 6' C increase hotter total engine and coolant temperature at the very least ,

82' C = 180' F

88' C = 190 F


= so using this formula now your engine is now actually running a full on 10' F Hotter ...

-

- below are the Rocket Science based OEM paper print media TOYOTA facts , email this screen shot to the place that sold you the Incorrect part here if they give you any grief , or tell you is does not matter ...........?

Because it DOES , and that now will matter to you very much ,.....


hope this helps :)

matt
Click to expand...

So... The reason my 1969 FJ40 with 1984 2F out of an FJ60 is running in the top half of acceptable on my gauge, while my 1975 FJ55 with 1978 2F runs in the bottom half of acceptable may be because of the hotter 1984 FJ60 2F thermostat?

Hmmmm. May have to do something about that.
 
Nothinghead said:
The radiator has a black plastic wing-nut petcock with round o-ring from what I can remember. It comes right out of the bottom of the radiator. My oem radiator drain was at the end of a 3-4” tube that passed through the front cross-member and had a brass petcock.

Lamar indeed still has the F135 motor. I’ll be putting the old thermostat back in and contact Cruisercorps about their mislabeled products. Both the oem thermostat which I purchased and the aftermarket thermostat state 82°C in their description.

Thanks so much for your help Matt.
Click to expand...



- i will take a leap here , and suggest that perhaps ( 51% or greater chance ) that black plastic wing nut is actually pure white nylon under the CSF aftermarket brand parts maker's 100% yellow brass 4-Core Radiator that was factory finished in a VERY HIGH QUALITY D.T.M High. Gloss Enamel u now have installed , if i am wrong there then the CSF company has updated there nylon wing nut to a UV Rated black nylon ? ...........and this a good thing of course .........

- exactly and same in kind how TOYOTA now and has been for a good many years in-fact incorporates a BLACK Nylon w/ a Black Nylon CAP on and with a cooling system overflow , that NipponDenso , DENSO , ASMO , & the TOYO , ALL OEM Parts Makers for TOYOTA Globality at this moment

- i do not quite understand " Both the oem thermostat which I purchased and the aftermarket thermostat state 82°C " ?

- never the less my 1988 Toyota Genuine Parts paper print media Fast Moving Cataloger above TECH. Spec. DATA i posted above has NOT changed since 1988 in respect to this Thermostat 82' C vs 88' C info ..
.
.


- i did not think relevant at the time , i guess because it is not and also it's a " Alternative-Approach NON-FSM OUTSIDE THE BOX Dealership service Dept. Trix or the Trade topic too " , that i would never simply advise or tell anyone was a 100% correct OEM parts solution to ALL or some of there related issues , symptoms or problems either to be krystal klear on the fact here .......fyi

- i have intentionally installed for Pre-determined varios Technical reasons , the Cooler 82' C OEM thermostat in-place of the 8/80 -Later and HOTTER 88' C one ....

- each time , the Factory YAZAKI Gauge Pod TEMP. Orange needle does in-fact climb LESS towards the H or HOT range side if it's full back and forth SWEEP range as it should of course , but i can visually see a good bit of difference at the pre-and post Test drive to full operating TEMP. needle location i record both before and after as well to ... so again the topic above that @Nothinghead posts about is a more then any " whatever " topic to ignore of dismiss as minor or not a big thing .....


- below are the 2 OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts OEM Thermostats , Everyone should Screen-Shot these 2 images and save them for future reference if you do not have this tech. detail all ready documented visually in some other way ....:)



.

THIS IS THE WAY ......



.
 
Last edited:
ToyotaMatt said:
- i will take a leap here , and suggest that perhaps ( 51% or greater chance ) that black plastic wing nut is actually pure white nylon under the CSF aftermarket brand parts maker's 100% yellow brass 4-Core Radiator that was factory finished in a VERY HIGH QUALITY D.T.M High. Gloss Enamel u now have installed , if i am wrong there then the CSF company has updated there nylon wing nut to a UV Rated black nylon ? ...........and this a good thing of course .........

- exactly and same in kind how TOYOTA now and has been for a good many years in-fact incorporates a BLACK Nylon w/ a Black Nylon CAP on and with a cooling system overflow , that NipponDenso , DENSO , ASMO , & the TOYO , ALL OEM Parts Makers for TOYOTA Globality at this moment

- i do not quite understand " Both the oem thermostat which I purchased and the aftermarket thermostat state 82°C " ?

- never the less my 1988 Toyota Genuine Parts paper print media Fast Moving Cataloger above TECH. Spec. DATA i posted above has NOT changed since 1988 in respect to this Thermostat 82' C vs 88' C info ..
.
.


- i did not think relevant at the time , i guess because it is not and also it's a " Alternative-Approach NON-FSM OUTSIDE THE BOX Dealership service Dept. Trix or the Trade topic too " , that i would never simply advise or tell anyone was a 100% correct OEM parts solution to ALL or some of there related issues , symptoms or problems either to be krystal klear on the fact here .......fyi

- i have intentionally installed for Pre-determined varios Technical reasons , the Cooler 82' C OEM thermostat in-place of the 8/80 -Later and HOTTER 88' C one ....

- each time , the Factory YAZAKI Gauge Pod TEMP. Orange needle does in-fact climb LESS towards the H or HOT range side if it's full back and forth SWEEP range as it should of course , but i can visually see a good bit of difference at the pre-and post Test drive to full operating TEMP. needle location i record both before and after as well to ... so again the topic above that @Nothinghead posts about is a more then any " whatever " topic to ignore of dismiss as minor or not a big thing .....


- below are the 2 OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts OEM Thermostats , Everyone should Screen-Shot these 2 images and save them for future reference if you do not have this tech. detail all ready documented visually in some other way ....:)



.

THIS IS THE WAY ......



.
Click to expand...
I mean both of the FJ40 thermostats Cruisercorps lists for sale are described as 82° thermostats. They are both also listed to fit 1958-1992 model years. Sorry for being vague.

Maybe there’s a mistake in their sourcing and they got 88° t-stats instead.

I’ll figure it out. Anyway, back to tech.
 
Filled both axles, trans & transfer case, and steering box. Installed new ignition switch and key cylinder.
The 10 year (so far) refresh-toration is finally at a point where I can drive it around the yard.
Front drive shaft not installed yet.
Open exhaust- stops right under the pedals.
I had to hold the fuse block in my hand so it wouldn't short out. (Too lazy to just mount it....)
It ran pretty good. No coolant leaks. Valve cover has some mild seepage on the left side. Brakes and transmission worked perfectly. Exhaust was not crazy loud to my surprise.

IMG_1057(1).webp
 
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