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Thanks all.
My almost 7 year old daughter wants a bow; keeps getting keep junk ones from family members but I think it’s time for a decent one.
I’ve had numerous people tell me I should put a turbo or a pro charger on my Chevelle. People that have never even ridden in it. Because everyone that has ridden, comes out sheet white and smelling like burnt tires and can’t really talk.
Wander over to an old tractor forum some time and ask about oil. The original spec for most tractors was based on whale oil. Opinions abound. My main recommendation is that there is oil and that you change it on some reasonable interval. Ideally that oil has a decent viscosity for the weather and the amount of clearance built into the engine bearing surfaces.
well the fact it is labelled 'NO' in the green part there is going to be confusing for sure"Colorectal" surgery was a success.The 40 sounds so much better now and hopefully I won't reek of exhaust fumes as much when driving it. Working on my next project of the day, a remote battery cut off switch to confuse thieves (or potentially myself when I forget it's there).
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I know. the irony of trashing someone for not knowing Land Cruiser lore and then saying "FJ" is utterly delicious.
That looks great. Loving the direction this is headed
Lead was never intended to lubricate valves/seats. Tetraethyl lead was developed and added to increase octane. Was there a fringe benefit to the valves? That is subjective. Lead, in solid form is pretty safe. All this crap about lead paint is scare tactics. TEL was put in automotive fuel for 60 years and this lead was vaporized and millions of tons released into the global atmosphere. The entire world was breathing in lead. This is the exposure to lead we've been subject to.- in my more then exhausting fact-finding mission research on this topic whole i learned more than a few very relevant facts
- that are intriguing as hell , and ones that were also absolutely mis-represented by that particular Fully Synthetic motor oils brand companies official web sites , and also HUMAN voice live TECH. phone support calls i made to them too ...!
- it was in no uncertain terms a eye-opening learning experience i am glad i found myself knee deep into , all for one single reason to begin , and find out what is the best Fully Synthetic Motor Oil for my 5/89 FJ62 with its super low mileage original 3F-E , that also met the krystal klear summer Viscosity Chart in my factory owners manual and FSM too of the REQUIRED 20W50 ....
- i did a back peddle in time to the 1962 FJ40 Siamese F Engine and moved forward year by year from there , F1.5 , 2F , 3F carb ( first introduced in 1984 ) and finally my 3F-E
- the fundamental areas of focus such as the SOLID Lifters , Cam Lobes , Solid Push Rods , Adjustable Rocker Arms to Valve tappets clearances etc, are same in kind , ...
- i do not know the whole Leaded Gas era Valve Seats topic , because that is the one topic here i did have going on ?
- i found more than a few 20W50 fully Synthetic Motor Oils commonly available at my local NAPA store , NONE of any kind or band at auto zone or advance , NOR could they special order a 20W50 of any kind at all ?
- one younger dude at advance , maybe early 20's ish told me he had never seen or heard on 20W50 motor oil before
- as wet my Carhart shorts laughing as that was , it also made me think WHY ?
- well i guess it's been a HUGE time window since a certain % of vehicles on american roads and there owner operators actually shopped for it and purchased it at a level that demanded auto parts stores justified carrying and stocking it at some level ?
- i learned that California , Arizona , and parts of URBAN Colorado around Denver , Colorado Springs , and one other high population density of registered vehicles still require yearly SMOG inspections , and that includes the good working order of all original factory Emissions parts such as the Catalytic Converters topic being present and doing its Job to a standard of air quality too ....
- this is where the ZINC and Phosphates / ZDDP additives are GOOD for older Land Cruisers as its commonly discussed here , BUT a 1/75 - 1990 and there Cats , they are required to still run NO F'ing WAY !
- as far as the ZINC RICH ZDDP Fully Synthetic motor oils out there , Amsoil , Royal Purple etc one HUGE RED flag became very real and apparent , NONE are actually API Certified in any way , they state on the back of the bottles that they meet all that API stuff , currently we are at the SP rating in 2023 , well if you SELF- CERTIFY your own brand or motor oil that you conjure up and brew ? then i guess you can claim anything you like on your own bottle too !
- the ONLY single Fully Synthetic 20w50 motor oil i could find that was 100% API SP Rated and Certified by the American Petroleum Institute was also the ONLY one that was NOT a intended to be ZINC and Phosphate rich ZDDP formula ...
- both Amsoil and Royal Purple TECH. Line customer service Reps , told me flat out 100% they were just that ?
Amsoil dude also made a point more then once that his bottles lacked the twin Circles DONUT official API logo and specs it meets like the SP grade etc , because all the brands that do have that official independent entity certification LOGO own a share or stake of ownership at one level or another of the American Petroleum Institute ?
- i called them and FAQ checked that claim , it's 100% Bull SH#T false in every way .....
- so my final conclusion is as follows :
- if you DO NOT have Cats still in place on a 1/75 - 1990 , or like in the GOOD SOLID point by @fj40fillet talks about , never had them to begin with , 1962 - 12/74 .....
- i would personally absolutely only use the same exact Valvoline Full Synthetic 20w50 Advanced i am NOW changing out on GHOST , then ADD my own preferred Zinc type ZDDP additive to it..
this way you achieve the best possible full synthetic 20w50 correct Summer Blend that meets all the Viscosity Chart spec,s , that is also API Certified too , combined with your Zinc ZDDP additive , you have a product keeping your Vintage Land Cruiser internal Engine Moving parts protected to a level that is basically a clever Preservation step , will freeze lifters and cam lobes , valve tappet normal wear and tear at its current state of being for the foreseeable future , if you use it for the foreseeable future ...
- the unique comment came up here above and requires Technical proven Science based answer and
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True that there were millions of tonnes of lead released, but the problem was the vastly greater concentration in urban areas, notably impacting brain development in children.
Strip to the frame and do what to it? Looks like it's complete already? Just curious, or are you just doing things like front bumper and winch mount, maybe some sliders, etc.
Maybe the booger eaters, then, was it really the lead?
