What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (8 Viewers)

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Well... when I pulled the rear drive shaft to slap a coat of paint on it I noticed the bolts that hold it to the third were mismatched and under sized. I ordered some actual fj40 drive shaft bolts and realized when trying to install them that the reason a PO used the smaller bolt because the flanges matting surface were from different years. The rig is a 69, but it has a disk brake axel from a 76 under the front. I had assumed that since the rear drums still used a m9x1 brake line fitting that it was just the original rear....well looks like that is only half the story... pretty sure the axel is stock and a PO just swapped the third out...probably to match the gears when the disk brake axel went under the front. Does that makes sense to you all? Is this possible? I plan to swap the rear yoke flange on the rear drive shaft to a 74+ To match the third. Anyone see any issues with this approach? Any help or pointers are appreciated.
 
My son has spent the last week with my brother who, in addition to paint and body, dabbles in knife making. 4th photo is of a knife my son made for me. As soon as he arrived home, he wanted to go for a ride in the 40 so we headed to Fort Pickens, a fort from the early 1800s built to protect Pensacola Bay and the Navy Base. Two photos with the fort in the background and one with Pensacola Light House in the distance.

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My 45 year old truck once again proved it’s more reliable than my 12 year old Mazda.

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Granted the Mazda was my fault - left the keys in the ignition... :bang:

Then I took the 40 to grab 800lbs of sand and gravel (and 40lbs of beer) to wrap up a yard project. Always nice when it earns its keep!

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I will say, I have no interest in EVER using retaining wall blocks to build a shed foundation ever again.
 
Well... when I pulled the rear drive shaft to slap a coat of paint on it I noticed the bolts that hold it to the third were mismatched and under sized. I ordered some actual fj40 drive shaft bolts and realized when trying to install them that the reason a PO used the smaller bolt because the flanges matting surface were from different years. The rig is a 69, but it has a disk brake axel from a 76 under the front. I had assumed that since the rear drums still used a m9x1 brake line fitting that it was just the original rear....well looks like that is only half the story... pretty sure the axel is stock and a PO just swapped the third out...probably to match the gears when the disk brake axel went under the front. Does that makes sense to you all? Is this possible? I plan to swap the rear yoke flange on the rear drive shaft to a 74+ To match the third. Anyone see any issues with this approach? Any help or pointers are appreciated.

You can likely drill out the holes in the flange to fit the larger bolts. Round flanges are frequently re-drilled to fit different years flanges. If there’s enough material there, it’d be super easy to drill them slightly larger.
 
Tuned my new carburetor and sprayed some paint this morning. My bezel has been various shades of grey or silver since '98. Back to good 'ol white..... looks proper now. 👍

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nice !

if you go to pep boyz for example , and pick a can of clear LAQUER , gloss or MATTE finish , give that NEW 21100-61012 3 separate but equal very light

mist coats , let each one tack up and dry between koats , say 10 -15 minutes

the whole dam thing , linkage , even the rubber accordion accel. pump plunger boot too ,

you WILL have a Life time NOS look for the very long term future ,,,,,,,,,


i have been dabbling with this process since high school in the 1990's and it legit , i like a Matte finish better personally ,

but ANYTHING new Toyota of Japan aluminum applys , fuel pumps , starters , alternators



if a Life-Time NOS look is your thing that is of course ........ 🤔
 
nice !

if you go to pep boyz for example , and pick a can of clear LAQUER , gloss or MATTE finish , give that NEW 21100-61012 3 separate but equal very light

mist coats , let each one tack up and dry between koats , say 10 -15 minutes

the whole dam thing , linkage , even the rubber accordion accel. pump plunger boot too ,

you WILL have a Life time NOS look for the very long term future ,,,,,,,,,


i have been dabbling with this process since high school in the 1990's and it legit , i like a Matte finish better personally ,

but ANYTHING new Toyota of Japan aluminum applys , fuel pumps , starters , alternators



if a Life-Time NOS look is your thing that is of course ........ 🤔

Great idea! I have some spray lacquer in the garage. 👍
 
Great idea! I have some spray lacquer in the garage. 👍


i works well and well for the long term

just 1 rule to never forget , NEVER apply too much , only the prescribed 3 light mist kotes

if u do apply too much , you will have a Cracked Winter Ice affect in short order , so simply don't ..........


other wise anything new and nice is fair game !

every single NON-USa high out put direct compact drive starter i sell my clients gets this treatment for example , chrome foil NipponDenso decals and all :)


this is useful TECH , everyone can benefit from ....



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Nice BJ42 in action Jim!
Inutile de dire que ton M101 est superbe!

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1984 BJ42, 4E9 Toyo beige, frame-off restored, factory 5spd
Willys WWII trailer, resto project
 
Hello all, got my first FJ this past week. Was looking for a 1st gen bronco but I am a Toyota guy at heart and this popped up on Offerup for a good price, so I jumped on it. Seller posted this vehicle on this site as well. After an eventful drive home and breaking down 4 times we made it just over 100 miles to its new home. Over the last week ive replaced all the tie rods, rebuilt the center arm, replaced some shoddy wiring, cracked vacuum lines, replaced the leaky manifold gaskets, oil change, coolant change, new plugs, and got the heater fan working again. Exciting week and looking forward to learning more about this beauty!

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Been having a rear wheel lock up when applying brakes when backing up.
Pull forward a bit and it would roll backwards fine until the brakes were applied.
Finally got around to pulling rear wheels and drums and found this on the left rear.
Top picture is position of shoes on axle.
Notice the lower shoe pad is coming loose.
These shoes don't have a lot of miles on them so a little peeved that this should happen.
Lucily the drum that was turned at the time I put on the shoes was not scored.
The truck stops great and there was no noticeable drag when braking while going forward.
Yesterday it locked so bad I finally took a look.
I am surprised and glad it didn't lock while going forward.
In all my years I never encountered anything like this, except the time I let my young wife back the boat into the water at Katherine's Landing, Lake Mohave Az. about 40 years ago.
She had watched me put the boat in the water many times and wanted to try it.
She backed up ok but by the time she got the Toy stopped the water was up passed the door handles but the boat was floating free of the trailer.
Got the rig pulled out and parked, then spent the next week on the lake up by Cotton Cove.
When we got back I went up and jumped in the Toy, released the E-brake and when I pulled forward there was a hellacious clunk.
Turned out the shoes had rusted to the drum and when I took off the pads stuck to the drum and ripped loose from the metal linings.


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