What took the most time of the whole job? Cleaning the diff cover of 60 years of baked on grease and dirt so I could paint it!
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Dusty old memories slowly filtered back in. Back in the mid nineties I had found this obscure part number supersession in the Toyota system that netted me a half dozen OE third members for $350 a piece! The regular list price at that time was already $1200!One of those 3rd members went into this truck.
Everything still looked good and tight inside, but owing to the fact that I hadn’t been back in there since, I decided it would be a good idea to change the axle bearings and races while I had it apart now.
View attachment 3980436
I love how the pre-75 axleshafts are designed to be serviceable, unlike the planned obsolescence of the newer ones
Mark is the sleeve on the axle something you added? My 69 axles do not have that sleeve and are chewed up from the bearings.
Thanks
Sleeves are standard on pre 74 axles. Someone either changed your axleshafts or the whole axle. It happens.
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Ah noted. Thanks!
The problem: tire too close and too low on oe mount.
The solution: change the mount.
The solution: change the mount.
Engineer8000
SILVER Star
Looks great. How far did you extend it? Are you selling these?
1inch outward and 1inch up...that gets rid of the 1inch spacers in place now.
Not interested in dealing with people.
There was an outfit making those about ten years ago. Not sure why they stopped.
Id still make it for myself...gives me the freedom to customize it exactly how i want it...the only hold up is how busy the shop is....not going to stop paying work for my pet projects, so maybe I get this afternoon or next week.
Any tips for removing the old races and pressing on on the new ones? What I have seen with going at the old race with a angle grinder and a chisel is a bit daunting.Dusty old memories slowly filtered back in. Back in the mid nineties I had found this obscure part number supersession in the Toyota system that netted me a half dozen OE third members for $350 a piece! The regular list price at that time was already $1200!
Everything still looked good and tight inside, but owing to the fact that I hadn’t been back in there since, I decided it would be a good idea to change the axle bearings and races while I had it apart now.
View attachment 3980436
I love how the pre-74 axleshafts are designed to be serviceable, unlike the planned obsolescence of the newer ones
Run a bead around the race and then use a slide hammer.
I have a Snap On puller that I bought about 20 years ago.
I used to borrow the same puller from another local mechanic. It was always close, but could have been closer.
I figured the problem was that his was well worn. So I zapped a bead on the four corners of his. Then it was perfect, and I knew I would be happy buying my own.
Note: I have often wondered if the newer axleshafts could be machined down to accept the races from the older ones
Note: it would take a LOT OF MACHINING to do this, as the entire axle beyond the carrier is fatter.I had always assumed that Toyota did this because it made the axle stronger. But…the only axleshaft I’ve seen that didn’t break at the carrier splines broke out at the flange. And it was a late model axle.
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Always wondered about the reason for using the shaft as the inner race. I assumed strength also because of the greater inner diameter but why didn't Toyota just increase the diameter of the tube to allow a race to be used on the later axles? Then I thought it might be for field serviceability. If you have a bearing failure you might be able to limp home with an easy bearing replacement without needing a press.
Then I realized there was little difference between the two approaches in terms of implementing a repair away from a workshop. Regardless of which axle you have - old or new - if the inner race is toast your best bet is to have a spare shaft and bearing on hand and for both sides.
When flanges fail on semifloat axles there's usually been a pretty significant side impact somewhere in the past. My 2 cents.
Around ‘94ish I didn’t know those existed. One of my July ’74 axes was shot and the other was ok. Since I didn’t know better… and no one else local seemed to, I ended up replacing the complete axel rather than trying to track down new axle shafts.
Fortunately I had crossed paths a couple months before with someone who mentioned they had a parts truck. I dug out his number and met up with him. He said I could have the complete axle for $50… score. Before I got home to grab some tools, he called me up and said I could have the parts truck for $100. Fortunately the frame didn’t disintegrate during the short tow home. I paid the tow truck driver $50…
I miss those days.Unfortunately, I didn’t know about the axles that used sleeves. So instead, I have a stock axle that uses two taper bearings on each side. It’s a much more complex design. It is convenient that the same bearings are used for both the front and rear axles.
This happens to be the only picture I have handy. The axle leaned up against the side of my 40 is from a dually Dana 70-U which I’m swapping in new bearings into the diff. After 420,000 km the pinion & Carrier bearings are worn out.
“IWE rear ends only” had a master bearing kit sitting on my doorstep within 20 hours of me hanging up the phone. There price was extremely competitive and it included shims, Timken bearings, seals, lock tight, and the clearance paste. Nothing but good things to say about them. To top it off, courier shipping was only $25.
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I really wish it was a Landcruiser diff. It cannot be removed and set up on the bench. Instead the carrier is about 45 lbs and needs to be wedged in between the axle housing and the fuel tank. It’s incredibly awkward and inconvenient. Hopefully it won’t need to come in and out a whole bunch of times to get the shims right.
I’ve swapped diffs in my rear axle in about 30 minutes. Remove fill plug, remove the drain plug, pull both axle shafts, disconnect driveshaft from 3rd member, and unbolt 3rd (diff) housing. Bolt in replacement 3rd, reconnect driveshaft, reinstall both axle shafts, reinstall drain plug, fill with appropriate gear oil, and reinstall fill plug.
You may wonder why I list fill plug first… because you’ll need to postpone the job if it doesn’t come out. I have had to use vice grips once, but I’ve never had it not come out.
I’ve swapped diffs in my rear axle in about 30 minutes. Remove fill plug, remove the drain plug, pull both axle shafts, disconnect driveshaft from 3rd member, and unbolt 3rd (diff) housing. Bolt in replacement 3rd, reconnect driveshaft, reinstall both axle shafts, reinstall drain plug, fill with appropriate gear oil, and reinstall fill plug.
You may wonder why I list fill plug first… because you’ll need to postpone the job if it doesn’t come out. I have had to use vice grips once, but I’ve never had it not come out.
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Attempting to patch a sunroof hole in the top.
Learned a lot from fishbumptv on youtube.
Learned a lot from fishbumptv on youtube.
I think it was last year I ordered new axle seals from Toyota. I pulled the axle apart and found out the new seals didn’t fit. That’s when the remembering started. In the mid eighties I trusted my 74 to a “professional “ mechanic with rebuilding the diff. It disintegrated on the way home from work the day after I picked it up. Turns out he was a drunk. I swapped in the entire axle from my 1970 parts truck except for the brakes. Fast forward, I took the 40 to Javier in Houston and he did my seals & bearings. I think I donated the 74 seals to another MUD member. Happy Camping.
Gave the '40 a facelift and some new shoes.
