Very happy with how this turned out.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (44 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Nice. Do you have a link to that combo?
Currently, I extend a long RAM mount all the way over from my driver-side grab-handle...which works and requires no drilling, but isn’t ideal for centering on the dash.
Sure!
8" End Loading composite with 3M VHB tape.
Before install, take a heat gun and slightly bend the track. The top of the dash has a very slight curve to it and you don't want the ends to spring up. Also, take some IPA and wipe down both track and dash to ensure good adhesion.
Shop RAM® Tough-Track™ End Loading Composite | RAM® Mounts
8" End Loading composite with 3M VHB tape.
Before install, take a heat gun and slightly bend the track. The top of the dash has a very slight curve to it and you don't want the ends to spring up. Also, take some IPA and wipe down both track and dash to ensure good adhesion.
Shop RAM® Tough-Track™ End Loading Composite | RAM® Mounts
Really, really bright. Wired them with a separate relay that is energized by the high beam circuit so that I can control them by the stalk rather than reaching for another switch. There is a switch in the panel that enables the 7" spots so I can run OE high beams or OE high beams + 7" LED. Very happy with how this turned out. Some much light thrown forward that you have to step on the gas a little to keep it from pushing you backward.
View attachment 2115392
Is this them?
7" Meteor Driving Light with Daytime Running Light
Spot beam and includes day time running light.
ironman4x4.com
Where'd you source them? Did you hook up the DRLs?
Metal-Tech bumper? Looks nice.
Is this them?
7" Meteor Driving Light with Daytime Running Light
Spot beam and includes day time running light.ironman4x4.com
Where'd you source them? Did you hook up the DRLs?
Metal-Tech bumper? Looks nice.
Yep! We test fit the 9” and while I really wanted then to work they’re just absurdly large. The 7” are the perfect fit. And a great value for the quality of the housing and light output. Used a step bit and drilled into the MT bumper shell to mount. They are visible in the nose cam, but you can still see everything directly in front, especially so with the more critical 4 Lo view. The relays are fit inside the OEM fuse box to give a very clean install.
DRL’s: because I’m using the high-beam power to drive the relay for the 7”, I disabled the factory DRL operation in the menu. While only 6V it still had the potential of energizing the relay. Didn’t want a ‘ND’ coming out of my 7”. But yes, I did add a 2nd relay to power the 7” DRL strip in the new lights. It’s triggered by ignition so they come on automatically.
Lastly, I still have the OPOR light bar in the MT bumper. That is now aimed slightly lower and fills in a tremendous amount of light in the mid-field.
Very happy with this combo. It’s a lot of light. Drove with them on continuously for about an hour up in the Wallowas last Thursday. It was like driving in the day, even illuminating things 1/2 mile + ahead of me. Only downside is the extreme reflection off any signs.
I use two magnet mounts in tandem. Phone won't budge in that configuration.
Pictures would be appreciated. The bud built skids are on my list for sure. Did you have them powdercoat them?
boozewz
SILVER Star
Went out cycling
Slick top 200s look groovy!
Markuson
SILVER Star
Markuson
SILVER Star
My wheel speed sensor is still in the blink...but while digging down to wires, I decided to at least start cleaning my super dirty engine bay. No hard-core clean yet, but it feels better anyway... 
Ps. My ARB twin is missing bc I’m digging down to a wire in the upper right...
Ps. My ARB twin is missing bc I’m digging down to a wire in the upper right...
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I’m having battery envy.My wheel speed sensor is still in the blink...but while digging down to wires, I decided to at least start cleaning my super dirty engine bay. No hard-core clean yet, but it feels better anyway...
View attachment 2116759
Markuson
SILVER Star
-Slee auxiliary battery tray and reservoir relocation...
-Slee Main battery tray (not required)...
-IBS battery manager... (would go Redarc if I have a do-over).
-These are both type 35 Odyssey AGMs. Originally had a huge type 31 AGM from Interstate, but after two defective ones...I gave up and matched the aux battery & all good.
Still going strong after 4 & 3 years of the highest battery usage of anyone I know by far...(despite the premature doom one guy on mud loves to declare about AGMs...haha).
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Sinister
SILVER Star
Added the non-smokers box.
I bought aluminum for the first engine skid, followed by 3 - stainless 3/16". Yes they are heavy. I followed two previous install threads, so I didn't take a lot of pictures. Removing everything and cutting the heat shield was harder than putting on the new skids. So I do have a few tips.
1. I used a motorcycle jack to hold the plates while I lined up and bolted in.
2. Grease the 4 spider and 2 yoke while everything is off. Once these skids are installed, you can't get to them. It took a while as I didn't have the truck lifted on jack stands, so I had to manually roll the truck back and forth to get the grease zerks lined up. This is known as poor planning and it took an extra hour or so plus a lot of work on my part.
3. You will need a small 14mm open wrench or flat ratchet type for the transmission skid. You can't get a socket on the driver side nut.
4. Use a jack for the cross member when you are removing the two long bolts. One comes out easy, one is under tension. A little jack force will get the one under tension out. You have to reverse the bolt on one of them. It shows on the install thread.
1. I used a motorcycle jack to hold the plates while I lined up and bolted in.
2. Grease the 4 spider and 2 yoke while everything is off. Once these skids are installed, you can't get to them. It took a while as I didn't have the truck lifted on jack stands, so I had to manually roll the truck back and forth to get the grease zerks lined up. This is known as poor planning and it took an extra hour or so plus a lot of work on my part.
3. You will need a small 14mm open wrench or flat ratchet type for the transmission skid. You can't get a socket on the driver side nut.
4. Use a jack for the cross member when you are removing the two long bolts. One comes out easy, one is under tension. A little jack force will get the one under tension out. You have to reverse the bolt on one of them. It shows on the install thread.
Ordered a personalized license plate.......When I get it I'll post it installed. My bet is others will want it in their state ? Oregon however is now taken! Stay tuned.
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That’s Japanese for Cruiser
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Removed the roof rack and replaced the rear brake pads. Looks much better without the rack.
Just added OME front and back coils and shocks. 2702 in the front and 2722 in the back. Love the ride compared to stock and doesn't look like a Subaru station wagon any more. 275 70 18 tires up next.
