This thing did spend the first 100k of its life in Tennessee so not quite texas, but it is virtually rust free. There are tiny spots on a couple things to suggest ski trips or whatever, but yeah I agree.. doing this procedure on a rust-belt truck? I'd have a manifold on hand before I started the job. Also agree on why shops charge so much for work like this.You're in Texas. Pretty arid environment like CA without too much rust. I'd hate to tackle this job on a vehicle from the snowbelt.
TBH I'm not entirely sure.. as the job progressed the manifold had to come off and once that happened there was a ton of room. That said the noid is on the top of the starter tucked well under the manifold, so even if you didn't remove the entire starter from that area, (which could save some work getting the downpipe out of the way) you would need to unbolt it from its position on the side of the block and manipulate it around to get access to the solenoid. Even if you did that, the manifold heat shield would need to be removed, and to do that you have to remove the dipstick tube.I haven't climbed under to do the starter yet but I assume if you were just doing the solenoid there wasn't enough clearance to just remove that without getting the whole starter out?
Removal is super easy on the LC.I’m going to have to do same soon. How long did it take?
Thanks Markuson. Did same to my 100 series last month. It was a lot harder than you describe.Removal is super easy on the LC.
Should take maybe 15 minutes max.
-Crawl under and remove all bolts.
-Steps are super light, so even letting them rest on you as you lay under with a socket wrench is no problem.
-Once it’s off...just screw the bolts back into the holes they came from.
Best FREE mod for wheeling there is.
More to it on an LX since it extends into the lower body panel...but LC is a piece of cake.
Really? What year 100 series?Thanks Markuson. Did same to my 100 series last month. It was a lot harder than you describe.
My 100 series is a 2000 LC. There was a bolt on the passenger rear that was difficult to get a wrench on. I had to remove the large rubber grommet on the frame to get to it. WTS they were stuck on with 20 years of mud and grime.Really? What year 100 series?
I took them off my 100 many moons ago too, but don’t remember anything tricky on my 99.
Just realized my 200 steps are still in the garage. Man those things are LIGHT. No wonder they get mangled...
Ha! Smilies...My 100 series is a 2000 LC. There was a bolt on the passenger rear that was difficult to get a wrench on. I had to remove the large rubber grommet on the frame to get to it. WTS they were stuck on with 20 years of mud and grime.
Loving the new smilies.
They are definitely not for protection. If anything, they’re a potential damage multiplier since an obstacle only tall enough to whack the step...could end up damaging the body panel above it if the step gets forced upward.So would common advice be to remove the OEM boards to prevent damage, or leave on as some mediocre amount of protection when off roading. Guess what I mean... I don’t in any way expect them to work as sliders. Question is, if you tale a slight hit, would factory boards have more likelihood to reduce damage, or will their flimsiness make damage more likely?