Cleaned everything up a little bit, rewired the subwoofer, secured the spare in the third area, and added an 8 ton pintle hitch on the rear.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (64 Viewers)
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Started my drawer build and picked up my new OEM steering rack.
And on board air....
serenity
SILVER Star
Pulled apart and cleaned the intake except for the manifold which would have required pulling injector lines. Deleted the EGR by pulling the vacuum line, I'm going to make a more permanent solution later.
There was up to 10mm (3/8") of built up soot in places!
There was up to 10mm (3/8") of built up soot in places!
it's been a month since I got mine so been very busy,
new head lights from the 2006 Cruiser ,
cleaned serviced injectors, replaced all oil, front, rear, gear box, engine.
optima deep cycle batteries.
winch removed and servicing. new dashboard lights as 3 of them were burnt out.
flushed radiator and new coolant. replaced rubber cooper 285's.
3'' exhaust from the manifold to first drum.
picking up snorkel from Iornman and K&N filter tomorrow.
new head lights from the 2006 Cruiser ,
cleaned serviced injectors, replaced all oil, front, rear, gear box, engine.
optima deep cycle batteries.
winch removed and servicing. new dashboard lights as 3 of them were burnt out.
flushed radiator and new coolant. replaced rubber cooper 285's.
3'' exhaust from the manifold to first drum.
picking up snorkel from Iornman and K&N filter tomorrow.
Just did the same on our 2004 with 140K. Loved the service from Slee, but I did pay a wee bit more than you...lucky guy. Went with OEM bearings and races - local machine shop installed for $25 - vs. me buying a brass punch for $14. Also did brake lines - she stops in a hurry now!
Did you pick up some anti-rattle clips and fitment doo-dads? Found mine to be rusty and not re-usable.
Curious to hear how you set your bearings. Lot's of good info hear on Mud. Will you invest in a fish scale, torque 'em, or use the "feels purty good" method?
Did you pick up some anti-rattle clips and fitment doo-dads? Found mine to be rusty and not re-usable.
Curious to hear how you set your bearings. Lot's of good info hear on Mud. Will you invest in a fish scale, torque 'em, or use the "feels purty good" method?
What color is it? I need silver running boards for an LX
Installed my new navigation unit.
What did you do to reinforce the sub-panel you screwed the mount to?
If nothing, expect to have it pop out at some inconvenient time.
I thought the same thing when I saw this picture. Mine popped out recently when I lightly hit my cb mic moving my tablet around. I just have a cobra 75wx cb hanging off the sub panel in mine. It hasn't happened driving even on the rough trails but a ipad is much heavier. I have the ram mount seat mount arm and bracket installed. I recently switched to a universal ram mount that holds a variety of tablets, my ultrabooks etc. The ram mount parts are interchangeable so swapping the ipad base to a seat bracket or changing bases is easy.
I thought about using double-sided tape which I hear is plenty strong enough for thousands of miles of use with a full size iPad mounted to it. I opted to use bolts and a metal reinforcement plate instead...
I put more detail in my build thread. This setup would support a laptop if I needed it too and is extreme overkill for my light iPad mini. The metal plate puts the load on the whole center trim surround rather than the small dummy switch panel. Pretty simple solution and hope it helps others.
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Got lucky in the cargo area again
I got lucky in the cargo area again
My left rear quarter window had gone from rattling when open to rattling all the time to the point that it wasn't even air tight, let alone water tight.
I pulled out my drawers and all of the trim to address that and do some Dynamat, HAM wiring, etc and found the windows motor mount bolts were simply loose.
A little blue locktite and a 10mm wrench and that costly thing is off my list!
I got lucky in the cargo area again
My left rear quarter window had gone from rattling when open to rattling all the time to the point that it wasn't even air tight, let alone water tight.
I pulled out my drawers and all of the trim to address that and do some Dynamat, HAM wiring, etc and found the windows motor mount bolts were simply loose.
A little blue locktite and a 10mm wrench and that costly thing is off my list!
Just wait until 100 in the hills
...in the mud!
German Shepherd.. check.
aaronrules
Coolest person you know!
I got lucky in the cargo area again
That might be the little rattle noise I hear coming from back there! Man either my hearing is getting better, or after two of driving it to death, this truck is starting to fall apart!
I thought about using double-sided tape which I hear is plenty strong enough for thousands of miles of use with a full size iPad mounted to it. I opted to use bolts and a metal reinforcement plate instead...
I put more detail in my build thread. This setup would support a laptop if I needed it too and is extreme overkill for my light iPad mini. The metal plate puts the load on the whole center trim surround rather than the small dummy switch panel. Pretty simple solution and hope it helps others.
Well done. I've seen a few accidents from folks mounting without the reinforcement. Not good.
I just saw your posts on Expo as well.
I got lucky in the cargo area again
Same symptoms. Looks like I have a weekend project.
I hope you guys are in the same boat that I was with the easy fix.
I know the window motor assembly is $$$. I have read it is non-serviceable so I was going to dig and and re-build it with a machinist, fix anything buddy of mine but knew it would be a lot of time invested. I was pretty stoked to find the root cause was just loose hardware for me.
