I would, but single digit temps until the sun's up make for a very cold garage all day!
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
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Left: Lexus OEM (frosted/diffused)
Right: Morimoto Matchbox 2.0 (100% clear)
Fog lights retrofit underway, bracket now being fabricated. No such thing as too much light if its not blinding.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
After weeks of ordering assorted drill bits and agonizing over drilling out the mounting holes to 18mm, finally installed new Dobinsons (80 series) rear LCAs...
(edit to give a shout out to @crikeymike for a great transaction!)
(edit to give a shout out to @crikeymike for a great transaction!)
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Is there a bulb currently sitting in the Morimoto ? Got a link, I like the plain design of these. I've searched all over and don't like the LED Fogs of Stedi & ARB they would look bizzare in my rig
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Both don’t have any bulbs on them when picture was taken. That’s the pin and spring actuator magnified bec of the concave lens for the optional bi-xenon function of it.
Shopping
You may also need to remove the old grease and repack if it got contaminated.
full flush of AHC, brake fluid flush, grease job, rotated tires, checked brake pads, ball joints, etc while tires were off.
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Wow, I was just telling someone else about your fiasco earlier. Glad you got it sorted out!!
I was wondering if the 100 series bushings would fit into those arms. What do you think? Perhaps easier than drilling out the mounts?
mdcoa
SILVER Star
It really wasn’t a fiasco once I figured out what I needed—a good quality single edged step drill (Irwin makes one that maxed out at 18mm so there’s no possibility of getting distracted and drilling too big a hole), and then two regular HSS bits—one 5/8” (16mm) and one 18mm.
The step bit can do both inboard ears on the axle, then you drill through that hole with the regular bits to enlarge the outboard bits.
Then you use the step drill for both front holes in the DS and the outboard hole in the passenger side and then use the regular bits for the inboard hole there (or drop the exhaust....)
Probably adds not even an hour to a regular LCA replacement.
Yes, I believe the 80/100 bushings have the same OD, but the 100 bushings are hard to find (I don’t even know if Toyota lists them as a separate part but recall Wits End has ‘em listed), they’re not cheap ($200 per four IIRC), and changing them out is apparently a bear, so I think drilling was waaaaay cheaper and easier.
Dobinsons could of course simply put in 100 bushings in the same arms at the factory....kind of surprised me that they didn’t bring out both versions at the same time.
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30mm Ironman4x4 spring spacers and torsion bar adjustment. Tried to keep 1” of rake.
Looks like it sits somewhere in between “N” and “HI” if compared to the old AHC system. Ride is the same as before. Alignment tomorrow.
Looks like it sits somewhere in between “N” and “HI” if compared to the old AHC system. Ride is the same as before. Alignment tomorrow.
Got the lift installed on Project 250 and waiting on getting it home to finish up piercing it back together. Also oiled my doors they were surprisingly sticky and squeaky...
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
Playing with instrument cluster wiring pins 
These pins are on the back of the instrument cluster. There are basically four connectors back there and these two pins are on the "C" connector (third from the left): pins 9 and 10 for the rear and front locker lights respectively. I had to install bulbs and will need to run wires from those pins to the passenger footwell junction block.
These pins are on the back of the instrument cluster. There are basically four connectors back there and these two pins are on the "C" connector (third from the left): pins 9 and 10 for the rear and front locker lights respectively. I had to install bulbs and will need to run wires from those pins to the passenger footwell junction block.
What was your goal of the spring spacer and is that a factory lc spring?
Yes it’s a factory LC spring off my old LC. Just wanted to get it off the ground a little but not go so far as diff drop, UCAs, etc. No plans for bumpers or roof rack or any heavy stuff at this time. I don’t even plan to remove the running boards because my kids need them to climb up into the back. Just hauling my wife, 3 kids under 5 and 2 dogs
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Get a couple of clamps. I broke a Toyota one and had to borrow from second boot kit. Only changed out one boot but used up two clamps. Took a few hours to do, I removed the entire axle and replaced the seal. Watched a lot of YouTube on it before hand. Cruiser Dave and FL23 on YouTube were pretty helpful. Good luck
Is this with factory ahc or without? Can it be done with ahc? I’m a newbie as you probably can tell with the question.. I have a stock 06 that I have some plans to
Put a drawer system with gear and fridge that I want to keep in rear. Wondering if it will pull the rear down and need some help.
OR will it self level with ahc??
ktmracer01
SILVER Star
You can install the spacer with AHC. Depending on the amount of weight you have in the rear, it can help. The AHC will try to maintain the AHC level setting unless you adjust the level sensor.
If you want some extra lift now, add the spacer, and adjust the AHC sensor. There is alot of info on the AHC sensor adjustment that other members have provided.
Camped in the RTT. Little buddy heater kept it in the 60’s. I use 2 CO detectors and vent the roof.
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Ah modern technology. What an upgrade from the Nakamichi. And you wouldn't believe the sound quality!
Reality: had to button things up briefly to drive some places and still have climate control. Waiting on a couple parts and will have a new headunit with wireless Carplay/Android Auto and backup camera installed. I think it will modernize the truck a ton.
Reality: had to button things up briefly to drive some places and still have climate control. Waiting on a couple parts and will have a new headunit with wireless Carplay/Android Auto and backup camera installed. I think it will modernize the truck a ton.
Timing belt + water pump replacement.
OEM radiator cap: generic cap that was put on during radiator replacement caused the upper hose to collapse.
OEM radiator cap: generic cap that was put on during radiator replacement caused the upper hose to collapse.
