Replaced my battery
Next is fogging my car to get rid of that spider creating cobwebs.
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Not a bad idea....may have to try that. Thank you!Would gasket material be thin enough? You can buy sheets of very thin felt gasket material at most auto parts stores.
More info here, what a calamity! The HorrorWhat happened exactly? I just started getting a strange humming vibration noise from my front drivers side area and assuming I'm going to have to open all that up and check...not looking forward to it.
Thanks for sharing. I installed mine earlier this year have definitely gotten a lot of use out this storage area. My experience has been pretty much the same as yours. I'd just add two more issues to your list:I just finished installing the Huracan fabrication tailgate storage kit.
It came with the truck when I bought it, but was never installed.
It took me 4 hours straight, with a couple extra steps.
Overall, I'm pleased with how it turned out and will definitely put the new storage space to use for emergency only type of stuff.
However, the kit could use some tweaks.
The biggest is that the main panel, and the latch lid are metal; which is fine, except without some sort of gasket - they rattle slightly.
Disclaimer: I'm an OCD rattle guy.
I added a superthin weatherstrip on the underside of the mainplate.
The only rattle now is the lid bumping on the main plate of the kit. Even with the latches as tight as they will go, the corners rattle just slightly, because of the distance away they are from the nearest latch and the thinness of the metal.
I'll have to think on that one because I can't just stick material in between the two pieces, or the lid will be higher than the plate. I also have the latches extended all the way out and they are a tight fit...so maybe a magnet?
The latches aren't super impressive either. We'll see how they hold up. Won't be opening the hatch much I don’t expect.
The plastic tailgate "guard/slider thingy" also catches the back of the latch lid carpet slightly. I think sand ing on the plastic stock piece will correct.
Lastly, the instructions kinda suck. And the pictures used for the 100 series install instructions are of an 80 series.
All in all, was a pretty easy install, it looks phenomenal, and hopefully everything holds up.
I used a grinder with a diamond blade to cut. Used a jigsaw in a couple spots.
Looks like it's for sale for $260 right now. I'd say its worth it if you want the storage or if your stock carpet pad is trashed.
*Previous owner of my truck burnt the stock tailgate carpet with a skillet.
Also, forum only lets me do 5 pics...what are options for more?
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A brand new hub (at partsouq) is only $188 and it comes loaded with new bearings and bearing races and wheel studs and the ABS reluctor ring! When I added it my cart the shipping went up by only $13! ( I am ordering other stuff too!).I properly diagnosed my snap ring failure to a hub/wheel bearing issue. Jesus Holy Christmas what a mess. Looks like a new spindle, axle, hub, flange, hardware, wheel bearings + locking hardware, snap ring, and dust cap are in order.
I'd look at it soon as you can. This serviceable bearing type hub may be stronger than some of the sealed designs common on other cars but when it fails it makes a big mess.What happened exactly? I just started getting a strange humming vibration noise from my front drivers side area and assuming I'm going to have to open all that up and check...not looking forward to it.
do you mean the races are already pressed in?!?! Because that could worth the price of admission right there.A brand new hub (at partsouq) is only $188 and it comes loaded with new bearings and bearing races and wheel studs and the ABS reluctor ring! When I added it my cart the shipping went up by only $13! ( I am ordering other stuff too!).
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Steering knuckle on the other hand is much expensive at around $485. When I had a similar issue I found one from a junkyard for under $100.
I did have to replace these parts:
On the side facing towards the front diff: oil seal (90316-72001), brass bush (90381-35001), bearing needle (90364-33011 or KOYO: BTM344017A)
On the side facing the wheel: Type K oil seal (90313-99001), gasket (943436-60020)
Obviously you will need the two new spindle nuts and the locking tabbed washer, the CV axle and hub flange and it's gasket!
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Yes, the races are already pressed in. I agree it is very attractively priceddo you mean the races are already pressed in?!?! Because that could worth the price of admission right there.
maybe time for part-time conversion? you know, if you are into that kind of thing...I properly diagnosed my snap ring failure to a hub/wheel bearing issue. Jesus Holy Christmas what a mess. Looks like a new spindle, axle, hub, flange, hardware, wheel bearings + locking hardware, snap ring, and dust cap are in order.
I guess if I open it up and snap ring is in place and pre-load is roughly the same, it may be that the spindle bearing needs greasing. Or that wheel bearings AND spindle bearing need greasing.Yes, the races are already pressed in. I agree it is very attractively priced
I'd lift the wheel up and see if there is any play right to left and even more importantly if there is any play top and bottom. Secondly, roll the wheel and see if you can feel the rough rolling or the humming. It could be brakes too!I guess if I open it up and snap ring is in place and pre-load is roughly the same, it may be that the spindle bearing needs greasing. Or that wheel bearings AND spindle bearing need greasing.
Yeah I lifted it up the night before to check and no noticeable play left-right, I didnt think to spin it tho. I did bearings, races, and greased spindle a year ago, o wait wow maybe 2 years ago now ~ 35K miles and I just did a bunch of water crossings two weeks ago could all be factoring in to wash out the grease. Tho I guess i did regrease the bearings (but not the spindle) in June after a cv bit the the dust.....this sounds worse than it really is i think....I'd lift the wheel up and see if there is any play right to left and even more importantly if there is any play top and bottom. Secondly, roll the wheel and see if you can feel the rough rolling or the humming. It could be brakes too!
How long has it been since you refreshed your front bearings?
Don't know if we should continue it here or take it to your build threat, but if you did any muddy water crossings lately, it can be something as benign as some mudd or stick stuck on the rotor or the wheel!Yeah I lifted it up the night before to check and no noticeable play left-right, I didnt think to spin it tho. I did bearings, races, and greased spindle a year ago, o wait wow maybe 2 years ago now ~ 35K miles and I just did a bunch of water crossings two weeks ago could all be factoring in to wash out the grease. Tho I guess i did regrease the bearings (but not the spindle) in June after a cv bit the the dust.....this sounds worse than it really is i think....
Trail Tailor?Don't know if we should continue it here or take it to your build threat, but if you did any muddy water crossings lately, it can be something as benign as some mudd or stick stuck on the rotor or the wheel!
In other news I found these at my doorstep! I guess I will need to paint them and throw them on!
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