bwell
SILVER Star
Another consideration with the most common size people run, 275/70r18's this size in KO2'S on my truck, mounted on the wheel, weight of the truck on them@36 psi, only measure 32"
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (15 Viewers)
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I wouldn't run a C on a heavy vehicle like a 100 in Alabama or Southeast wheeling. a rock or root will take out the sidewall, especially in the sloppy stuff
That's fair. To totally qualify my answer, I was running on a Tacoma or a 60-series back then. Much lighter trucks.
Been a busy couple of weeks for my LC 100. Last week a couple of buddies and I tackled the entire front end. We replaced the UCA's, LCA's, tie rod ends, CV assemblies, rotors and disc, and repack wheel bearings. The ball joints gave us hell, but after scoring a cheap (Harbor Freight) ball joint puller, which had to be modified we made quick work of it. Also adjusted the torsion bars to level the ride and get rid of a annoying tire rub issue. After a new alignment she drives like a new vehicle. Total labor was 6:00 hours.
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This week we tackled the dreaded starter and while we were at it we decided to replace the timing belt, plugs and coil packs. The starter was a pretty straight forward process because we had pulled the fan and fan shroud on all the front covers. We were able to climb inside the engine compartment, which is way easier than leaning over a rig with a 3" lift and 35" tires. The rig only has 115,000 miles and since I bought it used I was not 100% that the timing belt, tensioners and water pump was done at the 100K mark because there was no sticker or electronic record that I could locate. Sure enough, once we opened it all up the timing belt had been changed — that was the good news. The bad news was that they had used cheap Chinese parts that were already showing wear and tear. We said screw it and replaced everything with proper OEM/Asin parts. Spent a little extra time cleaning injectors and chasing down a fuel leak — had to reseat an injector. Total labor was 9:00 hours
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The IH8MUD forums and YouTube videos were a huge help. When you and your buddies do the labor you can save a ton of money. My friend Daniel Happily who owns Hill Country Cruisers (Wimberley, Texas) has great rates on labor ($50 per hour) if you want to go that route. Also, you read it all the time on IH8MUD — DON'T BUY CHEAP PARTS, STICK WITH OEM! In the long run it will have you money. Now I can start thinking about designing and building a killer roof rack— stay tuned.
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This week we tackled the dreaded starter and while we were at it we decided to replace the timing belt, plugs and coil packs. The starter was a pretty straight forward process because we had pulled the fan and fan shroud on all the front covers. We were able to climb inside the engine compartment, which is way easier than leaning over a rig with a 3" lift and 35" tires. The rig only has 115,000 miles and since I bought it used I was not 100% that the timing belt, tensioners and water pump was done at the 100K mark because there was no sticker or electronic record that I could locate. Sure enough, once we opened it all up the timing belt had been changed — that was the good news. The bad news was that they had used cheap Chinese parts that were already showing wear and tear. We said screw it and replaced everything with proper OEM/Asin parts. Spent a little extra time cleaning injectors and chasing down a fuel leak — had to reseat an injector. Total labor was 9:00 hours
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The IH8MUD forums and YouTube videos were a huge help. When you and your buddies do the labor you can save a ton of money. My friend Daniel Happily who owns Hill Country Cruisers (Wimberley, Texas) has great rates on labor ($50 per hour) if you want to go that route. Also, you read it all the time on IH8MUD — DON'T BUY CHEAP PARTS, STICK WITH OEM! In the long run it will have you money. Now I can start thinking about designing and building a killer roof rack— stay tuned.
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450 per hour is not a great rate. Lol
Oops using a MAC and hit the 4 instead of the $. His rate is $50...
Can't find any info on him or Hill Country Cruisers, does he have a website? We are in Wimberley often and it would be nice to have someone at hand in case a repair is needed. Thanks
I run load rating E KO2's at 285/65/18 and don't notice a "jarring" ride. I'm in an LX470 with AHC so not sure if that changes anything. since it's essentially stock versus your lift but OME is suppose to ride well. What PSI? I believe I'm around 36-38.
$50 is a deal for labor. Wish I was close. That's a lot of work done and a ton of money saved for DIY.
How much pressure are you running in your tires? I'm running the same tires on my stock LC and find the ride to be quite pleasant. I'm running 38psi.
On Instagram @hillcountrycruisers
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Got a new floor jack. I got tired of lifting the truck using the Toyota bottle jack. So rotated the tires for trial run and it worked great.
I run 38-40 psi. My suspension is comprised of LC OEM TBs, OME 2865 springs and Tough Dog Cell foam shocks.
I feel all the cracks in road surface and expansion joints. Larger bumps and pot holes are dampened much more nicely but the small stuff all pretty much just comes through
I feel all the cracks in road surface and expansion joints. Larger bumps and pot holes are dampened much more nicely but the small stuff all pretty much just comes through
I feel like my dampening from the shocks is super comfy, but the tires really screw the pooch for ride quality over small or harsh variations in the road. I figured my LCA bushings were shot so I had those done. Helped. but the tires still ride like s***.
I loaded mine up with a new set of cargo drawers. Kind of...
This worries me now. I have heard pretty much all good things about the TD setup. So much so, that I have basically decided this is what I will go with....until I hear stuff like this. Has me rethinking things. Mine is a DD, in a huge city with approx 75-150 miles a week driving, with a few trips a year in the southwest with minor/moderate trails. So I want to go with what would feel best around the city, but still be great off pavement. @ClassyJalopy, do you think the expansion joints and cracks come through more because of the 2865's or just your setup as a whole? I was just gonna reindeer my OEM TBs, with TD shocks F/R and OEM rear coils with 50mm rear spacers. I have an ARB Bullbar up front, Gamiviti Expo+++ roof rack, and a rear drawer setup with ~200-300# of gear when loaded up for a trip, ~100# of everyday weight. Thoughts?
I have the TD set up and run 295 Toyos Load E, and my GF just bought a stock 2016 GX460. We live down some pretty beat up country roads and I can honestly say there's not too much of a difference in ride quality. Hers does not wander as much as mine due to tire size but as far as bumps in the road in both vehicles you still feel them. I guarantee hers is a little smoother because its much newer components and she's not on load E tires but she does have low profile tires and don't absorb as much as a 16in wheel with stock tire sizes in a P rated tire would on one of our vehicles.
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I run 285/75/16 KO2 Es with a similarly setup rig, and I have a jarring ride over every crack even on AHC suspension. I live in MS, the roads a trash here. My AHC could use a flush, but I can tell that that kind of jarring is clearly the tires.
so you guys think the OME rear springs (2865s) don't contribute much to the harshness? Simply E rated tires? Thanks
I have run these tires with OEM shocks and with the TD ones. Toyota shocks were ok - pretty decent at highway speeds but TD are way better! I have yet to try them off road but they tend to soak up rough stuff a LOT better than Tokico ones.
I am convinced that the E-rated tires are to be blamed for the small cracks (just as @MongooseGA mentioned it). I have been searching CL and FB for a wheelset with Michelin LTX tires for a while. I think they will eliminate the harshness I experience in city/hwy driving and I will keep my KO2s for rougher stuff.
Or perhaps, I can just find KO2s in D range load rating and use them for all around?
