Before you spend money on chains, I would try a bigger lift with flares and 38" AT405s at 3 psi first and see how that goes
If you're going to go that far, why not go all the way to 44"?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (79 Viewers)
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If you're going to go that far, why not go all the way to 44"?
ktmracer01
SILVER Star
Got tired of waiting, I really want some too. Looks like these.
SDHQ Built Complete Billet Battery Terminal Kit
SDHQ'S Complete Billet Battery Terminal Upgrade kit is designed to replace and protect your vehicle's OEM battery terminals. These blocks distribute power for your accessoriessdhqoffroad.com
Edit - Aaaaaaand I already bought some. If any one has some extra self control hit me up, I'm severely lacking.
Sorry for the delayed response, @brauski, @LostAussie, @ClassyJalopy. @brauski You're absolutely right. They are from SDHQ. I buy a lot of stuff from those guys for my Tundra and after I bought a set for my Tundra, I couldn't help myself. My LX needed some love too.
It's important to note, if your battery sits any higher than stock, you'll have clearance issues on the inside of the hood. Be careful. Mine barely clear.
Glad to see that most of the mud members are DIYers, there's plethora of information on this board and everyone is always willing to lend a hand. IMO the best way to own these trucks is to do all the repairs/maintenance yourself, shops will either mess up the job or rip you off, or both.
The race track is actually in pretty good shape
You drove right by me and didn't even say hi
The race track is actually in pretty good shape
You drove right by me and didn't even say hi
I did! Blew right through Bishop on the way home.
I suppose that without teeth, the Racetrack would be no problem
(Mostly the problem was me—we were quickly approaching sundown and I was in a bit of a hurry. It's definitely not a high-speed road. Had it been anything but a family trip, I would've slowed down, aired down, adjusted the shocks, etc.)
Lots of patience brother. And lots of cursing. Take your time and not rushing it is the key. I’m digging the roof rack-less look, I am thinking of doing that this weekend. How did you cover those bolt hole provisions for the roof rack upon removing it?
Don't forget your grass.
I just did this myself a few weeks back. I grabbed some shorter matching bolts (I don't remember the exact length but they're much shorter than what came out.) I filled the bolt hole with silicone, then the bolt, then sealed the bolt head in silicone. Still waiting on a set of the caps to cover it up.
Totally missed it, since I had it in trip mode.
New K02s. Still have 1 3/8” clearance in the garage.
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Dude, you got this. You will find everything you need in mud. I bought mine and committed to do all work myself from day 1. Did T Belt with just about every hose, belt, and spinning things, cam and crank seals done while I was in there. Also tackled heater T's and all hoses. And much more. Justified buying tools to do those jobs with all the money I save doing it myself, and was still ahead of the cost of dealer/mechanic. Took my time doing it as carefully and accurately as possible, which no (or almost no) mechanic will do. Maybe tough, or frustrating along the way, but WELL within the average person's abilities. Good luck!
Today i'll be stepping down a tire size, and switching brands as well. Currently running 305/65/18 BFG KO2s, i'll be switching to 275/70/18 Wrangler Duratracs.
The Duratracs weight 9lbs less per tire, is thinner so i'll get back some of that MPG and acceleration. I love that size KO2 but when i stuffed it, it rubbed a little plus they felt so heavy. With 275s and +30mm wheel offset, it should stuff without any issue, i hope.
The Duratracs weight 9lbs less per tire, is thinner so i'll get back some of that MPG and acceleration. I love that size KO2 but when i stuffed it, it rubbed a little plus they felt so heavy. With 275s and +30mm wheel offset, it should stuff without any issue, i hope.
275/70/18 is the popular tire size as you know. They don't feel heavy at all on my truck with the KO2s.
I'll need tires in the next year or so and was toying with the idea of going up in size but comments like this make me want to stay where I'm at at the 275/70/18.
This is my 3rd go around with the timing belt job on these 4.7L behemoths. I understand the punishment I have been assigned
I will say that the starter replacement is a pain in the ass.
Question: I can't find in my records that the alternator has been replaced. With full blown " while you're in there" raging I'm trying to figure out how old it is. Is the date stamped in the silver part of the tag on the bottom of the label? If so I think it reads 2016???
I've ran all sorts of sizes and brands over the years, the biggest difference you'll notice with the 305 is the weight, they are 63lbs per tire, also the wide track make the truck "wander" but ymmv depending on your suspension setup. They do look really good, make your truck look stout, and you get rim protection from the beef. The added rolling resistance will take its toll on MPG, and truck doesn't feel as nimble, as before. I'm still waiting for anyone to make an A/T tire in 275/70/18 in a C range, that would be my ideal setup.
This is more of a what have you done over the last month post...but had the time before starting a new job to get some big items checked off.
-Switched from 275 70 18 to 295 75 16 (ko2s). This is the biggest size I would want to go without a regear. Truck sees a lot of highway miles at high elevation and it frequently drops down to 4th, even on the flats.
-Painted 16" LX wheels in a gunmetal color (could have done a better job here, but was in a rush)
-Installed 2x KC Pro6 sae driving lights (didnt love the beam pattern at first, but they actually work pretty well in practice considering they are street legal. I've been treating them as high beams.)
-Installed switch for lights in BenCC's make 6 with 2x powered usb's (wired directly to battery with on/off power switch). Love the location as it's easy to find quickly by feel.
-Replaced Rad, hoses, thermostat, and flushed system. Used CSF rad as recommend, purchased locally from Advanced Auto.
-Switched from 275 70 18 to 295 75 16 (ko2s). This is the biggest size I would want to go without a regear. Truck sees a lot of highway miles at high elevation and it frequently drops down to 4th, even on the flats.
-Painted 16" LX wheels in a gunmetal color (could have done a better job here, but was in a rush)
-Installed 2x KC Pro6 sae driving lights (didnt love the beam pattern at first, but they actually work pretty well in practice considering they are street legal. I've been treating them as high beams.)
-Installed switch for lights in BenCC's make 6 with 2x powered usb's (wired directly to battery with on/off power switch). Love the location as it's easy to find quickly by feel.
-Replaced Rad, hoses, thermostat, and flushed system. Used CSF rad as recommend, purchased locally from Advanced Auto.
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I imagine load range C would ride nice too, but do you experience any punctures on the trails?. I run 285 75R16 BFG KO2 in load rating E because I was told that's what I need for puncture protection. Unfortunately they make for a very jarring ride.
I do a lot of forest roads with dead trees sticking out and mild rocks, i don't do rock crawling. So far no puncture yet, i dont think i wheel that hard to require an E load tire, but the size and type i want to run all comes in E. My last cruiser i ran C load tires and they ride a little nicer, weighs less and is less expensive, however i'd have to get new 17" rims to fit them, it's a lot of work.
Totally terrain dependent. Out here I won't run anything but Es, but in Alabama all I ever needed was Cs.
