What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
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Definitely needed to be changed though
I run 38 in my E rated 35" Nitto RGs
When the Caddy gets left out in the storms.
That garage is cleaner than my dining room!
calebshane
CascoCruisers
Just pulled the running boards, in prep for future fun. My better half recently upgraded to Toyota's 5.7 v8 towpig/minivan known as the Sequoia. And now I get to start the work on the LC100.
At the back of the engine, just forward of the firewall. Almost, if not center of the engine in the bay.
I went with the metal as well, just used the original hoses as they were in good shape. I used worm gear clamps, the OEM clamps aren't going to cut it on the new tees (in my experience).
Do yourself a favor should you ever need to remove them again, and remember to position the clamp screw or tabs (whichever you use) up so you can get to them easier. From the factory they're not conveniently placed.
80psi at a load of 3640 lbs per tire. That would mean loaded rig weight of what... 14,560 lb truck ??? Heavier load means higher psi to get the optimal rubber deformation as it contacts the ground, etc. etc. Assuming it's all linear (which it probably isn't) half that weight (7,200+ lb truck) would put you in the 40psi range which sounds about right to me.
I installed some 06-07 style eBay LED taillights
Left: new, right: old OEM
All done!
Initial impressions were what I expected for the price ($230 with the 10% eBay coupon and putting in an offer to the seller) - fit and finish left something to be desired, but nothing I couldn't quickly modify (flash molding still on some plugs, screw holes not quite lining up, two bolts came out of the plastic housing and had to be glued back in) but the alignment between the pieces and to the body is good, and they look great. We just had two days of rain and no sign of leaks.
Side note - these do trigger the dead brake light warning light - anyone know of a better way to get rid of that without tape or pulling the panel and yanking the bulb?
Left: new, right: old OEM
All done!
Initial impressions were what I expected for the price ($230 with the 10% eBay coupon and putting in an offer to the seller) - fit and finish left something to be desired, but nothing I couldn't quickly modify (flash molding still on some plugs, screw holes not quite lining up, two bolts came out of the plastic housing and had to be glued back in) but the alignment between the pieces and to the body is good, and they look great. We just had two days of rain and no sign of leaks.
Side note - these do trigger the dead brake light warning light - anyone know of a better way to get rid of that without tape or pulling the panel and yanking the bulb?
Finally after some modifications to the OE tow adapter. I was able to install my RIGd multi-fit ultraswing. Cant use the tail gate, but I do not mind. I love having a removable option instead of a new rear bumper.
z
Any reason you didn't get Wilco Hitchgate? You could still use your tailgate then.
Any reason you didn't get Wilco Hitchgate? You could still use your tailgate then.
It was priced a little lower and I received a discount, which allowed me to buy the accessories and still be less than the Wilco. I would like the use of my tail gate but like I said dont really miss it right now. May change my mind later, but now I'm happy with it.
Can't imagine NOT being able to use my tail gate. It's the mod we'd all do, if it didn't already come oem as a tail gate. What size tires are you running. EDIT: can see in your post, 275/65/18. You can fit a fairly big tire up underneath, and if you do the spare tire lift, even more so. I'm running an inch bigger than you, diameterwise, and it works underneath. I like the look of it for sure, but the use of the gate and hatch is where it's at, imo, a hard thing to give up.
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I hear yah man, I can still use the hatch which is why I'm not worried about it. Especially right now I'm not doing any crazy multi day overland trips. Another reason why I dont mind not having a roof rack either. I'm running 275/65R18.
Yes, they do trigger the light. Annoyingly. It's on my list of stuff to figure out, but for now I've just left it blaring away.
Being as close as it is to the low fuel light, I have on occasion kind of flipped out thinking something was wrong. I really should pay more attention...
Working on a sleeping platform. Already have the wood cut out but ordered the wrong brackets. Will add a drawer at a later time. I intend add the passenger side so I can either have full drawers or single. I still use 3rd row. Though I lose drawer space with the thickness of the crossbar, I feel they will be more secure than wood with a +100lbs of recovery gear and tools in the drawer in an event of accident.
I think I see it. I actually see 2 TEEs.
Does this mean I need 2pcs of those TEE fittings?
Only if you want to replace them both.I think I see it. I actually see 2 TEEs.
View attachment 1996009
Does this mean I need 2pcs of those TEE fittings?
mdcoa
SILVER Star
@OEMGUY0720, there are some reeeally long heater t threads on here you can explore. But good advice in the posts above to which I’d only add that it’s a good idea to remove the whole hose assemblies for both t’s, and THEN remove and replace the t’s . That way you can avoid having crumbly bits fall down into vertical hoses/the engine. And if your hoses look at all old, you can buy all six little hoses, remove existing tee assemblies, and use them as templates for putting together new ones.
forum.ih8mud.com
DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important*
Today I replaced my Pipe T's for the heater hoses. This should be included in your 90k service, but most shops (even Toyota) usually don't do it. If your service was done at Slee, they are one of the few that do it. That should tell you something. It could leave you stranded and overheating...
forum.ih8mud.com
Fresh gear indicator. Need to get a new shift lock cover, since the old worn one looks out of place.
Ok I will be first to ask, where did you get the part? part #?
