What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (22 Viewers)

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finished painting the wheels. (
before - OEM 866 /nitrocharger
After - Tough Dog 3" tourflex with 53mm ralphs in the front.
total cost around 50$ for the paint/primer/clear coat

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Let me know how they ride! Seems like OME Slee is known to be too stiff. I want something close to OEM plushness but with a lift.
I’m running the TD tourflex and the adjustable TD shocks. With a slee bumper, a light load of ~300lbs it’s about 3.5 inches higher and I would say it’s pretty “plush”.
 
But how are they when the tent is off, and your gear is out? Mine will only be loaded for trips. The rest of the time I drive it mostly empty other than a set of drawers in the back. Did you use spacers? (don't those springs give you a 3" or so lift as it is?)

Thanks!
I don't have a tent, nor drawers. Just the BIOR rear bumper with spare, and the bajarack. I don't use spacers. I got these springs to replace the medium duty OME units, which were part of my original lift. The additions listed above had negated most of the orginals height.
I was very concerned when I bought them that the ride would be too stiff. I actually found that it rode better. I found it did not crash over sharp bumps as much up front. I think it may have taken some of the stress off of the torsion bars which I had almost fully cranked.
Pretty sure they advertise it as a 3" lift.
 
I’m running the TD tourflex and the adjustable TD shocks. With a slee bumper, a light load of ~300lbs it’s about 3.5 inches higher and I would say it’s pretty “plush”.
You would say its oem plush? I dont think. Theres comparing the rides
 
What is the difference between the 98-02 ARB and the 03+?

A few thread on here that people chime in about it. basically it has a slightly different design than the 98-02 spec bumper. the 03 spec has hi lift points and the recessed indicators/fog light section looks better in my opinion.
 
View attachment 1667273 View attachment 1667274 IIt sits level now with my torsion bars cranked but I don’t know that I can crank them anymore. Does this mean I need spacers in the front or do I just have to bite the bullet and get new shocks front and rear to match?

I would strongly recommend re-indexing the factory ones. Trust me, you have a ton of height you can get out of them. I have ome 2863's and factory front torsion bars. I ran out of thread the first time around, then re-indexed and now I have more than enough. i'm not even close to maxing out the bolts and its level with the rear lift springs.
 
You would say its oem plush? I dont think. Theres comparing the rides
Well, I ran for about a year with oem (circa 1999) rear springs and worn everything. I freshened up the bushings and did things in a staggered manner. That’s not a super way to feel cause and affect. That said, I’m lifted, armored etc and I love the way the LC feels on the turns and it is not harsh or bouncy at all.

It supports the various weights I need in a very smooth, predictable manner and not squishy. When loaded, minus the slee rear bumper, the oem was squatting a lot. So given all the variables I think it’s pretty plush. Plus the adjustable rear shocks allow me to make it feel looser to tighter along a linear scale.

It’s all subjective of course. I feel progressive spring rates are doing a great job for me. I have trailer towing in my future and am really looking forward to seen how that goes.
 
My 14 year old son and I installed new front OEM Toyota shocks on “Tilly." ARB/OME 864 springs ordered, arriving Thursday. Then the rear shocks will go on. With the paint marks on the old OEM shocks, could the ones I removed be factory original? At 376k miles?

Yes, I have an oil leak, and the valve cover gasket kit has arrived, that’s on the list. And yes, I have a torn CV boot. Both new axles will be done by ACC Garage in Atlanta very soon along with new wheel bearings. Working my way through the list.

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Took Tilly in to ACC Garage in Atlanta at the end of our spring break trip for her full evaluation. Brian and Jennifer are good people! Thanks for the tour, t-shirt and stickers! Their tech found the source of the coolant smell I picked up occasionally. No visible leak, but pressure test revealed the radiator IS leaking and needs to be replaced. I left with some good info, a solid repair list and some good advice.
Plenty of bonding time coming up for my son and me...springs and shocks this weekend, then the radiator.
ACC Garage | FULL SERVICE AND MODIFICATIONS FOR YOUR TOYOTA AND LEXUS
 
Homemade shovel mount and hi-lift mount on OEM rack. drilled a hole through. Quick Fist Clamps (for the shovel), couple bolts, locking washers, and locking nuts from Home Depot! It was about 25 bucks for both! Put a tie-down strap over it just in case! Also locked the hi-lift with a bike lock.

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Homemade shovel mount and hi-lift mount on OEM rack. drilled a hole through. Quick Fist Clamps (for the shovel), couple bolts, locking washers, and locking nuts from Home Depot! It was about 25 bucks for both! Put a tie-down strap over it just in case! Also locked the hi-lift with a bike lock.

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That tiedown really isn't doing much, especially in the event something fails going 75 down the 405 (which, it won't, your setup seems plenty solid). I'd ditch it the tiedown.
Just to ask, what are you worried about failing? The hardware holding the hilift? Ease your senses by using some old fashioned overkill...get some 3/8" grade 8 hardware.

Keep in mind too, you aren't going to want to keep that gear on the roof all the time... the sun will eat everything. Grade 8 hardware will hold up better to the on and off.
 

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