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Do you by chance have a list of what you carry in your tool roll? I am fearing the same issue and wanna make sure I am fully prepared the next time I am out on the trail.
I been there! The good thing that you knew what to do. you should bite the bullet and just re-gear as well.
Really awesome mod! Broke some teeth off my front ring gear today!
4LO climbing a ledge with the center diff locked and rear air locker engaged.
Got off the trail by pulling the drive flanges and front driveshaft and locking the center diff. I'll be in 2wd for a while now. The silver lining is I might have a front locker in my future. Pretty pricy. I hate to cheap out and just do the ring gear but a locker is a big $$$$$ unexpected surprise.
Oh yeah and it's a 2004 with the "stronger" front diff.
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When you pulled your drive flanges, did you cover them with anything before throwing the wheel back on and limping home? I'm waiting for my '99 to detonate one of these days
Not yet. Didn't have anything handy at the time. Drove about 10 miles on the highway and no noticeable grease flinging out from the wheel bearings.
ROFLMAO - no, you're notNow I’m ready for those back shocks!
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Great...What does a proper shop do to get at these back shocks?ROFLMAO - no, you're notIf i didn't have drawers installed I would've come from above and suggest you consider it. It's not the starting or mostly tightening the shock mount that's as tough as finally getting it tight *enough* that I found challenging. Really, really challenging.
Fight til the deathGreat...What does a proper shop do to get at these back shocks?
So if that’s the case what about the 866s? Those are for a heavy load according to slee.864s are quite a bit stiffer than the 865s. My Cruiser isn’t a daily driver and is used mostly fully loaded for trips, on and off-road; therefore, I went with 864s.
See chart here: Cruiser OutfittersSo if that’s the case what about the 866s? Those are for a heavy load according to slee.
To do this job specifically you need :
flathead screwdriver : To pop your center cap off and also a thin flathead to pry your dust cap off
12mm socket - skid plate bolts
Lug wrench
Suitable jack : I used the factory bottle jack
14mm socket and 14mm wrench : for removing front drive shaft
Snap ring pliers : to Remove the CV axle C-clips
The 14mm or 12mm socket will get the nuts off the hub. I think it was the 14
Hammer : to bang on the edge of the hub to free up the cone washers.
That's all you need to be able to do this.
Dont you have to remove that big 32 mm axle nut to pull the axle out of the hub? How do you do this repair?
He's talking about remove the drive flanges (and front drive shaft) only. The CV's stay in place but don't spin.
Why take the dust cap off and center caps and remove snap ring for cv axle and the cone washers etc
Those steps are all so you can remove the drive flanges to disengage the CV axles from the hubs. You don't remove the CV axles. Even if you wanted to, that big nut doesn't hold them in anyway. They pass through the bearings and adjuster and lock nuts and then they are splined into the drive flanges. The big nut holds the bearings in the hub and the hub on the knuckle.
Yeah it'll make perfect sense once you tear into it.ahh thanks for the info i need to look where the drive flanges are and how it works i havent seen them.