With the fully walled vestibule/room, nice! I wish my hardshell had that option.
And the hoist to install? That's a nice way to get it done.
And the hoist to install? That's a nice way to get it done.
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The LC ones are not replacement friendly at all.
Would be happy to see about your dual battery setup. Components used, wiring, ... looks very cleanFinally finished up most of the new electrical work, compressor, and dual battery setup.
This all has turned out to be a very big project.
Coming together nicely.View attachment 3820903
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Today I learned this is a thing!PO must have never applied any anti-seize to the mating surface on his rims.
I don't know if it's a thing or not, but my father had been doing it ever since I was old enough to hold a flashlight for him, so that's how I learned to do it too. Just a super light film applied by the brush and smeared about with a gloved finger!Today I learned this is a thing!
That's mint for NE.I don't know if it's a thing or not, but my father had been doing it ever since I was old enough to hold a flashlight for him, so that's how I learned to do it too. Just a super light film applied by the brush and smeared about with a gloved finger!
Here's what they looked like after the original wheels would finally break free.View attachment 3821681
That's mint for NE.
Isn't it always 13 degrees there?
11 here in the DC area.
best part was getting it during the Cascadia clearance sale around black friday... whole setup was like $900 shipped. I don't remember the exact dimensions, but it's close to 8'x8' inside, nearly big enough to fit all 5 of us inside, but I think the boys (14 and 15) have decided they'd rather sleep on a platform in the truck if the whole family is going. Guess we'll see, our first camping trip is planned for Valentine's Day weekend.With the fully walled vestibule/room, nice! I wish my hardshell had that option.
And the hoist to install? That's a nice way to get it done.
My build thread for my '99 covers this issue. I replaced my upper control arms with Dobinsons and problem solved.I found a new development/ possible issue…
A couple of years ago, I installed Japan 4x4 AHC strut spacers when I did a moderate sensor lift on my 2002 LX470.
And I must say, the AHC spacers did return the ride quality to factory plush… they got rid of some slight suspension cycling harshness.
Today, I find that the upper control arms have made contact with the AHC strut dust shrouds. The dust shrouds are dented ( not too badly) and the upper control arms are marked from the contact.
It seems that at full droop with the AHC spacers, these 2 parts meet each other. I never considered that, even knowing that the shocks are the downward limiting factor. Currently, with the added length of the AHC spacers, I apparently have more down travel than was intended by Mr. T.
The truck drives just fine… AHC suspension works great… but I feel foolish having just discovered this.
Look at the angle of the upper ball joint at full droop. All ball joints are tight, no play, but I have all 4 new boots to install.
So… do I let it ride, and reboot the ball joints? Or do I remove the front AHC spacers and return the front end to factory down travel?
I searched, and I was not able to find any information on this AHC spacer issue.
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Same happened to me. Half a beer can cut lengthwise and wrapped with duck tape "Fixed" the hole. And after installing SPC upper control arms no issues.My build thread for my '99 covers this issue. I replaced my upper control arms with Dobinsons and problem solved.
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How does sound?This was over the last couple weeks but I wired up some amber/clear chase lights and got some exhaust work done. More photos to come of recent projects! View attachment 3822753
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You're not alone. I also always put anti-seize between the wheel and mating surface. Aluminum and steel don't like each other. It makes things a lot easier the next time.I don't know if it's a thing or not, but my father had been doing it ever since I was old enough to hold a flashlight for him, so that's how I learned to do it too. Just a super light film applied by the brush and smeared about with a gloved finger!
Here's what they looked like after the original wheels would finally break free.View attachment 3821681
You're not alone. I also always put anti-seize between the wheel and mating surface. Aluminum and steel don't like each other. It makes things a lot easier the next time.