What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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First I gave my LX a Wedgie:
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Then I figured out that my delicate engineer hands don't love opening the RAM mount arms when there's a phone in place - so I fixed that with some finger-loops:
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Both available on The Artisan Garage now!

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I put this kit on all of our vehicles. It has saved us many thousands. On out diesels it’s been especially useful. We do oil analysis every 3,000 miles and change the full flow filter adding some make up oil. We don’t change oil until the analysis indicates. It’s usually fuel dilution that forces the change. We’ve torn down engines with 275,000 miles on them with only 3 or 4 oil changes and the bearings were fine. Oil doesn’t wear out, it just becomes contaminated. These filters are 99% efficient at 20 microns. Typical rod/main tolerance is about 60 microns.
so basically you just change the filter and keep running the same oil? what are your intervals for oil and filter typically?
 
so basically you just change the filter and keep running the same oil? what are your intervals for oil and filter typically?
We oil sample @ 3,000 miles and change the small filter (which is a full flow like an OE filter, in that it incorporates a check valve that allows oil to flow without being filtered if the engine is calling for max oil flow). We add some make up oil a that time which replenishes the additive package. The larger, by-pass filter we change at 30,000 miles. On the diesels we follow the same schedule except we change out the by-pass filter at 15,000 due to soot. As I mentioned, it is typically fuel dilution that forces an oil change. That’s a good indication that we need to pull injectors and test them. Sometimes a coupe of doses of SeaFoam will clean them up. Direct injected engines are notorious for carbon buildup on the valves and sea foam helps there too.
 
Newb 100 Series owner. In addition to the drive back fixes Media - The MUD 100 series Photos thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-mud-100-series-photos-thread.91953/page-1025#post-16087907

* New battery (O'Riley AGM)
* Oil changed
* Deleted AHC pump
ORDERED
* White Knuckle Off-road sliders
* RIGd Supply hitch mounted swing arm/bike rack
* decomissioned the AHC ECU, no more blinking dashlights (as the previous owner deleted the AHC)
* removed the side running board, ready for the WKO sliders!

***GONE*** does anyone want/need FREE RUNNING BOARDS. caveat they are pick up only in Berkeley, CA. DM me if interested. FCFS

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@GTV they are the stock 2000 LX470 wheels
Nice wheels… nothing wrong with them.

Any rubbing at full lock and full compression? The backspace offset fills the wheel arches more than any stock wheel.

Those wheels look good… but they are not a stock OEM offering for that year, or any year as far as I can tell…

The book of parts confirms it…

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They don’t look like any 100 series OEM wheel I’ve ever seen.
I've tried figuring this one out, as well. I can't identify them. I'd love to know what they are if anyone figures it out. Could these be OEM wheels offered in a foreign market, or were they all the same?
 
I've tried figuring this one out, as well. I can't identify them. I'd love to know what they are if anyone figures it out. Could these be OEM wheels offered in a foreign market, or were they all the same?

They’re definitely factory-esque since they accept the OEM center caps. I’ve never seen them but they look like something the south eastern dealers would offer. @tsutaoka should post some pics of them, backsides as well.
 
I noticed my AC drain line was creating rust on my frame, so I installed the extension kit from @cruiserpatch. Such an easy mod to avoid so much potential damage. The rust sent me down the path of rust removal, which lead me to por15. After doing the area of concern, my OCD took over and I ended up doing most of my frame. I had very manageable surface rust, and now there is little concern of it getting worse. I plan on using woolwax on the interior of the frame next weekend.

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what’s the extension? Sounds like something I’d use because I have some rust rust there and shot bushings

Here's a link to the HVAC condensation drain extension kit as mentioned. It's an elbow, 2' of hose and some zip ties to route the hose.
Currently 15% off as we're hosting a moving sale- code: MOVEOUT2025

I noticed my AC drain line was creating rust on my frame, so I installed the extension kit from @cruiserpatch. Such an easy mod to avoid so much potential damage. The rust sent me down the path of rust removal, which lead me to por15. After doing the area of concern, my OCD took over and I ended up doing most of my frame. I had very manageable surface rust, and now there is little concern of it getting worse. I plan on using woolwax on the interior of the frame next weekend.
That frame is clean enough to eat off of now!
 
what’s the extension? Sounds like something I’d use because I have some rust rust there and shot bushings
Has a 90° elbow with rubber hose and zip ties. Here’s the link:


Attaching some photos of it installed with the routing as well.

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They’re definitely factory-esque since they accept the OEM center caps. I’ve never seen them but they look like something the south eastern dealers would offer. @tsutaoka should post some pics of them, backsides as well.
@GTV + @Unrulykid + @robbyfj62 I sent a message to the previous owner. they owned it for 24 years (purchaed it as pre-owned personal dealer car) so i suspect the dealer may have sourced them

@Unrulykid the previous owner did an AHC delete when the 2" OME lift was installed. There's no rubbing at all.

We rolled out in Hollister, CA yesterday (green trails (medium) over black (hard)) with no issues

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@GTV + @Unrulykid + @robbyfj62 I sent a message to the previous owner. they owned it for 24 years (purchaed it as pre-owned personal dealer car) so i suspect the dealer may have sourced them

@Unrulykid the previous owner did an AHC delete when the 2" OME lift was installed. There's no rubbing at all.

We rolled out in Hollister, CA yesterday (green trails (medium) over black (hard)) with no issues

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from the previous owner on the wheels, "My father in law bought it with them on in 2001. I believe original option"
 
I noticed my AC drain line was creating rust on my frame, so I installed the extension kit from @cruiserpatch. Such an easy mod to avoid so much potential damage. The rust sent me down the path of rust removal, which lead me to por15. After doing the area of concern, my OCD took over and I ended up doing most of my frame. I had very manageable surface rust, and now there is little concern of it getting worse. I plan on using woolwax on the interior of the frame next weekend.

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Looks like you got it nice and cleaned up under there.

On the top side of the passenger side frame rail, just forward of the front sway bar bushing mount, there is a solenoid for AHC high pressure line…
You do not have AHC. I can tell because there are only 2 brake line coils on the right side of the truck. AHC equipped vehicles have a 3rd high pressure line coil for AHC fluid.

Check that area for rust and corrosion accumulation as well, due to the poor factory positioning of the AC drain.

If you do not have AHC, a casual inspection will probably serve well. If you do have AHC, it’s very likely that rust mediation will be needed in this area. That solenoid and bracket are made from unobtanium… no OEM replacement available, that I have found… so clean it up as best you can.

Wipe down those bolts and hardware, AHC hardlines, brake line fittings, power steering hardlines and AC hardlines with Boeshield T-9… it will make them last forever.
 
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