Finished out my tailgate storage and added a new sticker
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (52 Viewers)
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VinylSeats
SILVER Star
I continue to make progress in bringing my new-to-me 2004 LX back to its former glory. Fortunately, the condition in which I purchased it was pretty damn good for its 250k miles.
This weekend I replaced the cracked 3rd brake light. This was not something I had to do on my 1999 but after some research, it seems like this is not uncommon.
I decided to replace with the OEM part (Part number 81570-60061).
Pretty easy job. The majority of time was spent removing old adhesive from the original light.
IF ANYONE WANTS A CRACKED OEM 3RD BRAKE LIGHT, I'll happily send you mine for just the cost of shipping. If you didn't want to spend the $200+ on new OEM, seems like you could repair the crack, peel off this old adhesive seal, then reinstall with new sealant.
Unfortunately, addressing this issue exposed the worst rust present (that I am aware of) on this truck in the lower part of the upper hatch. I imagine the cracked 3rd brake light and deteriorating seal allowed water intrusion over an unknown amount of time.
To address this, I treated as much of the inside with Surface Shield as possible. I'll be working on the rust from the outside in the coming weeks.
This weekend I replaced the cracked 3rd brake light. This was not something I had to do on my 1999 but after some research, it seems like this is not uncommon.
I decided to replace with the OEM part (Part number 81570-60061).
Pretty easy job. The majority of time was spent removing old adhesive from the original light.
IF ANYONE WANTS A CRACKED OEM 3RD BRAKE LIGHT, I'll happily send you mine for just the cost of shipping. If you didn't want to spend the $200+ on new OEM, seems like you could repair the crack, peel off this old adhesive seal, then reinstall with new sealant.
Unfortunately, addressing this issue exposed the worst rust present (that I am aware of) on this truck in the lower part of the upper hatch. I imagine the cracked 3rd brake light and deteriorating seal allowed water intrusion over an unknown amount of time.
To address this, I treated as much of the inside with Surface Shield as possible. I'll be working on the rust from the outside in the coming weeks.
Certainly don't let that get any worse. I'm about to have to attempt a significant amount of sheet metal repair in that area myself.
Was the sub box pre-made or did you fabricate it? It looks good, and I'm looking for options to add a proper sub to my truck soon.
VinylSeats
SILVER Star
Yeah, I'm hoping I caught it at the right time and can just keep an eye on it going forward. I am fortunately located in Colorado and rust isn't really an issue here, so long as you don't let the mag chloride they use on the streets in winter sit on your frame.
My cycle the past (2) months with my damn 100:
*CV axle goes out*
"That should be the last major repair"
*Steering rack goes out*
"Okay that should be the last major repair"
*Brake booster takes a dump*
"Okay, WTF"
At this rate, I expect the timing belt will be next. Which, it's actually due around Christmas... Ugh.
*CV axle goes out*
"That should be the last major repair"
*Steering rack goes out*
"Okay that should be the last major repair"
*Brake booster takes a dump*
"Okay, WTF"
At this rate, I expect the timing belt will be next. Which, it's actually due around Christmas... Ugh.
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You don’t want the timing belt failing on you … that would be bad
Absolutely, not waiting for that one to fail trust me lol.
Yeah 100s are turning into maintenance whores. At least the stuff you fix remains fixed for a long time!
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VinylSeats
SILVER Star
Replaced the running board courtesy or "puddle" light bulbs on my 2004 LX470. I replaced with Sylvania LEDs.
Three were simple "remove, clean, replace" operations. However, the driver front was not on and I quickly learned why.
The metal in the plug that holds and connects the bulb had completely dissolved.
Just ordered a replacement lamp assembly (part number: 8149060010). I hope simply replacing the plug is all that's need to get this light operational again.
Three were simple "remove, clean, replace" operations. However, the driver front was not on and I quickly learned why.
The metal in the plug that holds and connects the bulb had completely dissolved.
Just ordered a replacement lamp assembly (part number: 8149060010). I hope simply replacing the plug is all that's need to get this light operational again.
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Yep, these are expensive to keep up and fill up. But take you wherever you want and back!
That's definitely a burly list...mine was steering rack - engine room block assembly (main under hood fuse and relay box) fuel pump - belt tensioner/idler pulley belt - thermostat - with a brake booster acting a little wonky but still hanging in there. It's a cruiser...it's reliability is a double edge sword in that it so infrequently cries out for help. I bought a Cruiser with 287K miles on it so I knew quite a few things were going to need attention but there is a light at the end of the tunnel and the duration of that light is pretty sizable. (I'm told
Let me check and see if I saved any of those. I removed my running boards a while back.
Right! I feel like most of us veteran 100 series owners know with the age our rigs are, the CVs, the steering rack and brake booster are the real bank account drainers when they go. I'm sure there are others out there but for some reason Toyota really wants to jack us on the cost of these.That's definitely a burly list...mine was steering rack - engine room block assembly (main under hood fuse and relay box) fuel pump - belt tensioner/idler pulley belt - thermostat - with a brake booster acting a little wonky but still hanging in there. It's a cruiser...it's reliability is a double edge sword in that it so infrequently cries out for help. I bought a Cruiser with 287K miles on it so I knew quite a few things were going to need attention but there is a light at the end of the tunnel and the duration of that light is pretty sizable. (I'm told
My only grumble is that i'm supposed to be leaving for Vacation in the rig on Friday and I decide today that I should really address the oddity symptoms coming from my brake booster
. Which, means the new part will be arriving Wednesday and i'll have to get that installed that night so I can take it to Toyota the next morning to have them bleed the brakes and then give it a good shakedown test before I drive out friday evening.
My problem is the opposite...I have to get things mostly wrapped up before the kid starts going to school again...I'm the bus, at least for pick-up. I don't know yet whether it will end up being over-optimistic to be able to do plugs without harming any coils...Right! I feel like most of us veteran 100 series owners know with the age our rigs are, the CVs, the steering rack and brake booster are the real bank account drainers when they go. I'm sure there are others out there but for some reason Toyota really wants to jack us on the cost of these.
My only grumble is that i'm supposed to be leaving for Vacation in the rig on Friday and I decide today that I should really address the oddity symptoms coming from my brake booster
Every time I say "we should be good for another 300,000 miles" turns into 30 miles down the road saying "we should be good for another 300,000 miles"
Right! I feel like most of us veteran 100 series owners know with the age our rigs are, the CVs, the steering rack and brake booster are the real bank account drainers when they go. I'm sure there are others out there but for some reason Toyota really wants to jack us on the cost of these.
My only grumble is that i'm supposed to be leaving for Vacation in the rig on Friday and I decide today that I should really address the oddity symptoms coming from my brake booster
I've got one CV that needs doing, and (dun dun dunnnn) steering rack too. Initial quote for the rack was pricey but I managed to get a rack for $700 AUD (instead of the quoted 1700!). I don't think that's too pricey? (Waits for car to say "hold my beer, I'll show you pricey!" and something more to go! Wife says "is this how it's gonna be, a big repair every month?" I said I hope not, but the car is 20 years old even with low km's, rubber perishes, plastics harden, metal bits go rusty... Still love the thing, and I'm only 3 months into 4x4s - figured I'd start with a Cruiser at least I've got the right idea.... right?
Yes, there are common repairs becoming due for a lot of 100s that include big ticket items like brake booster, steering rack, suspension rubber/ AHC globes, CV axles, radiator etc. Not to mention, a lot of smaller/cheaper issues like starter, alternator, window regulator, lock actuator, heater Ts etc. etc.
You can save some money by shopping around and waiting for the sales to pop up (like Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store Serra Toyota of Decatur - https://autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com/ has 25% off, free shipping right now). Sometimes overseas sellers like partsouq.com and https://en.impex-jp.com/ have prices so low that it's worth buying from them even when shipping costs a little more.
Finally, if you are able to work on these trucks yourselves it will save you the labor cost which is more than 50% of the cost of a job.
You can save some money by shopping around and waiting for the sales to pop up (like Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store Serra Toyota of Decatur - https://autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com/ has 25% off, free shipping right now). Sometimes overseas sellers like partsouq.com and https://en.impex-jp.com/ have prices so low that it's worth buying from them even when shipping costs a little more.
Finally, if you are able to work on these trucks yourselves it will save you the labor cost which is more than 50% of the cost of a job.
Replaced 8 spark plugs and ignition coils with all Denso parts at 291K. The last 6,000 miles have worn out my wallet.......
- 285K Tensioner belt pulley
- 286K Cooling fan pulley
- 287K Brake Master cylinder
- 287K A/C line leak and recharge
- 290K rear brake pads and rotor
- 291K ignition coils and spark plugs
- 285K Tensioner belt pulley
- 286K Cooling fan pulley
- 287K Brake Master cylinder
- 287K A/C line leak and recharge
- 290K rear brake pads and rotor
- 291K ignition coils and spark plugs
Our belong Hundy’s are getting old! I know I’m preaching to the choir here, but the service life and durability of these vehicles is outstanding. My old Land Rover Disco II had less than half the mileage of my 100 when I sold it and it was on its 3rd transmission and second engine. (not including one head gasket job)
If we’re going to run old rigs we’re going to have to make peace with the fact there is going to be near constant maintenance/tinkering compared to a newer vehicle. It’s worth every penny though. They truly don’t make them like this anymore and never will again, IMO.
