What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (96 Viewers)

[Jeff Elliott]

I've been trying to run down starter and battery problems for a while now. It turns out that the first thing I unplugged was the ScanGuage2 plugged into the OBDII port. The ScanGuage wasn't going into sleep mode and was pinging the multiplexors at the gauges. It was pulling 2amps with the car off. Ruined a battery (fortunately covered by warranty). Replaced the starter and unplugged the ScanGuage and all better. The manufacturer stands behind the product so I'm going to send it to them along with the cable and they'll sort it out for me.

This is identical to the problem I have except I haven't gotten as far into the troubleshooting as you have. I'm going to give this a try asap. Thanks for posting it up!

 

[Ballsie]

Those consoles are a really nice looking design. Are there any made for RHD vehicles as nearly all Aus 80's have the console and im sure there'd be a market for them.

Yep, I have RHD consoles as well!

 

[Hatari]

I posted some pics of my ‘92 fresh out of the paint shop a couple of weeks ago. Since then I reinstalled the rack, jack, lights, and ladder. About all that’s left since paint is re-spooling and reinstalling the Warn EVO winch. I’m switching from steel to nylon rope. Will do that on the bench and stretch it after installation because with my bumper I don’t think I have working room with it mounted.
The last thing after that (for now) is the installation of a new oil pan gasket. Rear main seal was replaced not long ago. Hopefully the oil pan gasket will seal up my last drips…

 

[Adrians80]

Fixed the horn, toot toot, and finally put on the 285/75/17s and fifteen 52s!

Also put up the carport shade as it’s getting hot out already.

 

[69 Pigboy]

This is identical to the problem I have except I haven't gotten as far into the troubleshooting as you have. I'm going to give this a try asap. Thanks for posting it up!

If you do have a parasitic draw you'll need a multimeter to run it down. Disconnecting the negative terminal and measuring the amperage between the terminal and the post will let you know how bad the draw is. Then it's down to removing fuses and relays if you think it's in the original electrical equipment. If it's in something you've added it'll be trickier. You'll need to disconnect it back to stock and starting adding things back in until you find it.

 

[ToyotaDon]

If you do have a parasitic draw you'll need a multimeter to run it down. Disconnecting the negative terminal and measuring the voltage between the terminal and the post will let you know how bad the draw is. Then it's down to removing fuses and relays if you think it's in the original electrical equipment. If it's in something you've added it'll be trickier. You'll need to disconnect it back to stock and starting adding things back in until you find it.

Measuring voltage between the cable terminal and post is incorrect because this will result in showing you full battery voltage. Instead, an ammeter needs to be inserted to measure current flowing. You must be careful that nothing is turned on, including dome lights, etc. because this could cause too much current through the meter, blowing its fuse (usually 10 Amps max).

 

[Corbet]

Installed the summer wheels/tires

 

[Fj80oregon]

Did a little science project! You can definitely pull the timing cover with the head and upper oil pan on. Pretty straight forward, pull all the cover bolts and the 2 nuts and one bolt on bottom of timing cover, bolt is front driver corner of pan. Then pull the two studs out of the timing cover that go thru the timing cover. Then pull two bolts under valve cover that thread into timing cover. Use two big flat screwdrivers and gently pry evenly back and forth until it breaks the seal. I attempted to reinstall the cover (this is on a motor I’m tearing down and rebuilding) which I was able to get it on but don’t see how you could keep the square oring that seals the pick up tube in place. It is between the timing cover and upper oil pan and is extremely tight because the oring is meant to be compressed so it protrudes a couple thousands. I also bent the head gasket in. The HG is not in the combustion chamber in the timing area and is just sealing for the oiling of the timing components and keeping the head on a level plane. It would definitely be an issue if this was being done to drive. I guess my conclusion is that you need to either pull the head or pull the upper oil pan which is what I have read multiple times but wanted to find out for myself. It’s possible with some fresh FIPG that the bottom of the cover would slide easier but the HG is a composite material and has lots of friction to bind up on.

 

[Fj80oregon]

New fuel pump And drained out the old regular fuel for some fresh premium.

 

[Fosters]

Do you know if the earlier grill is a direct fit on the 95+ models.

No it’s not…you’ll need the lower apron to have a correct fit.

 

[Fosters]

Installed a compact mini air line reel…

 

[Montana Cruiser]

Installed a compact mini air line reel…View attachment 3613053

That looks really slick, what are the details of the rest of the system? Is this just for airing up after the trail?

 

[Fosters]

That looks really slick, what are the details of the rest of the system? Is this just for airing up after the trail?

It’s from apex designs.
Yes for airing up tires…currently connected to a Viair constant duty compressor with a 2.5 gallon tank.
Used the apex design generic mount and a custom mount which attached the rear seatbelt mount on the pillar…

 

[Diesel-Runner]

Welded up, painted and installed my Huddexpo crossmember-skid plate. Very happy with the added protection.

 

[duece71]

Welded up, painted and installed my Huddexpo crossmember-skid plate. Very happy with the added protection.

View attachment 3613332

View attachment 3613333

View attachment 3613334

View attachment 3613335

View attachment 3613336

This looks really nice, I just need to learn how to weld. lol.

 

[duece71]

Shipping alone was $300…..

Actually Amayama fell through, so Impex got the $$$$, it was actually a little bit less for shipping….$164+$345 (radiator)= $509 all in.

 

[bonestock]

Wheeled the hell out of it. Camped with family and friends. Ain't no place I'd rather be...

 

[ERG80]

Over the weekend I finished up a seat heater install (Just in time for warm weather ) and painted and installed an aux speaker for my comms radio.

I have a 96 with manual seats from a 94. I went the easy route and put the heater under my marathon seat covers. I already replaced the seat foam and didn’t want to take the seats apart again to do it.

I Probably spent about $100 total. The majority of the expense was some oak switches from a Lexus i got long ago. I put them into the center console connected to the factory looms. I purchased some cheap elements from aliexpress >$20. Wire came from 4rcustomwire since they have a large variety of striped wire. Connectors came from Corsa and Eastern Beaver.

So far so good. Now the cruiser just needs a cleaning.

 

[JoeCova]

I just need to learn how to weld. lol.

Do it, it's incredibly easy. Welding machines make is super easy to setup. When I got started I took a welding class at a local forge, was like $75 for an hour and a half of hands on training, learning techniques etc. Bought a welder, welded some scrap to learn the machine, watched Weldmonger on youtube and the rest is history.

 

[69 Pigboy]

Measuring voltage between the cable terminal and post is incorrect because this will result in showing you full battery voltage. Instead, an ammeter needs to be inserted to measure current flowing. You must be careful that nothing is turned on, including dome lights, etc. because this could cause too much current through the meter, blowing its fuse (usually 10 Amps max).

My bad. I said voltage in my post but I meant measure the amperage flowing between the two. I went back and edited it.