What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (42 Viewers)
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Do you think it was due to boost?
View attachment 3523364
Fried some valves I think. Leak down was horrendous.
Time to rebuild the head at a min.
T case gears and valve body work at the same time so pulled it all.
Channeled my inner contortionist for the steering shaft seal. Never had hot feet or any feeling of warm in the cab, just figured why not do it. Glad I did as that thing was toast. In order to be able to see pretty well, I have one of those harbor freight icon magnetic flood lights and it light up that whole area so well. Used the magnet bottom to mount on the front bracket to connects to the abs ECU.
Guess now I'll see if I'm colder in the cab?
Guess now I'll see if I'm colder in the cab?
Unknown. It would be likely and my current assumption. OEM valves should have been able to handle the low boost though, so I'm curious if my machine shop didn't install OEM as they said they did...
this is at about 40k miles of boost after a complete engine build FWIW.
I watched an fj62 break through thick ice. The water was deep enough the ice destroyed the grill and punctured the radiator.
Well today was the 1st day of my weekend. I decided to take the cruiser for a ride because it has been sitting for a few weeks but when I went to start it I got nothing.
So either I got something weird going on or AGM batteries don't like sitting for 3 weeks in the cold.
I went and got a cheap trickle charger from Napa to throw on the battery. Hopefully all it needs is a charge.
So either I got something weird going on or AGM batteries don't like sitting for 3 weeks in the cold.
I went and got a cheap trickle charger from Napa to throw on the battery. Hopefully all it needs is a charge.
Nothing, like no dash lights or interior lights? Or just that it wasn't enough to crank it over? What was the voltage at the battery terminals?
Nothing, zero power anywhere in the truck. Didn't check voltage because my volt meter is far away in a storage unit
Sounds like there was a parasitic load that drained the battery while it was sitting. It should be able to sit for much longer than three weeks without an issue unless the battery is toast and won't hold a charge.Nothing, zero power anywhere in the truck. Didn't check voltage because my volt meter is far away in a storage unit
Once its back in action I'd pull the negative battery cable and use a multimeter (between the battery negative terminal and the battery cable) to measure current while everything is off to see if this is the case. If you are seeing anything above 50 milliamps then start working through the circuits (pulling fuses) to see what is the cause.
Oh and if the battery is really low that trickle charger won't bring it back in any reasonable amount of time (it's probably only a few amps output max). You'll need a much larger unit.
Well the battery is only 4 or 5 months old and the rig has never had a parasitic draw. Maybe I left something on but I doubt it has developed a draw.
Even when I bought the battery the guy at tue battery store warned me that if I didn't drive it daily I would need to keep it on a maintainer or it would die after a few weeks because it's an agm battery.
I am guessing this is what happened. As for the charger the guy at the auto parts store told me I needed the small 1A charger because I have an agm battery and according to him they need a slow trickle charge over a few days.
Honestly I know nothing about this s*** and I am not feeling like diving into a bunch of research right now.
So the $18.00 trickle charger is my first step
I will use it for my motorcycle either way.I suspect I will get impatient tomorrow and try to start it with jumper cables.
I’m pretty sure this was your daily driver until recently so you wouldn’t have known if there was a parasitic drain.Well the battery is only 4 or 5 months old and the rig has never had a parasitic draw. Maybe I left something on but I doubt it has developed a draw.
Even when I bought the battery the guy at tue battery store warned me that if I didn't drive it daily I would need to keep it on a maintainer or it would die after a few weeks because it's an agm battery.
I am guessing this is what happened. As for the charger the guy at the auto parts store told me I needed the small 1A charger because I have an agm battery and according to him they need a slow trickle charge over a few days.
Honestly I know nothing about this s*** and I am not feeling like diving into a bunch of research right now.
So the $18.00 trickle charger is my first step
I suspect I will get impatient tomorrow and try to start it with jumper cables.
The first thing I would do is clean up the rats nest on the positive terminal.
The best way to kill a battery is to drain it to zero and let it sit.
Why would anyone buy a battery that can’t set a few weeks without dying ?
My odyssey battery can sit for months connected and still start the truck
Some notes for the Odyssey battery regarding a trickle charger on a dead battery (summary: it won't do much):
https://www.odysseybatteries.com/odyssey/docs/us-ody-tm.pdf
An AGM battery won't have an issue taking a real charge. If you have a 30A charger available (maybe a neighbor has one you can use) I'd put it on overnight to bring it back up to the proper voltage. You can also jump start the cruiser and have the alternator do the work but it will take much longer and you'll need to stay at a higher rpm to really provide a full charge (long freeway drive).
As @Broski said something is amiss for it to go flat in three weeks. Even a small parasitic draw adds up over time.
https://www.odysseybatteries.com/odyssey/docs/us-ody-tm.pdf
An AGM battery won't have an issue taking a real charge. If you have a 30A charger available (maybe a neighbor has one you can use) I'd put it on overnight to bring it back up to the proper voltage. You can also jump start the cruiser and have the alternator do the work but it will take much longer and you'll need to stay at a higher rpm to really provide a full charge (long freeway drive).
As @Broski said something is amiss for it to go flat in three weeks. Even a small parasitic draw adds up over time.
Nah, I left it sitting for a month last August and also last March and it fired right up with a 5 year old battery.I’m pretty sure this was your daily driver until recently so you wouldn’t have known if there was a parasitic drain.
The first thing I would do is clean up the rats nest on the positive terminal.
The best way to kill a battery is to drain it to zero and let it sit.
Why would anyone buy a battery that can’t set a few weeks without dying ?
My odyssey battery can sit for months connected and still start the truck
I am guessing I left something on. Or maybe something else is wrong with it.
The guy at the parts store doesn't know s***. I work for Interstate and the AGM batteries last the longest between charges. Our route drivers pull batteries after sitting on the shelf for 120 days. Most of the flooded batteries need a charge and load tested. The AGM batteries both Interstate and Optima have a long shelf life. I pulled one the other day and the voltage was 12.2 but had been sitting on the shelf since February. After a charge and check the battery passed a voltage and load test, exceeding the 950 CCA rating.Well the battery is only 4 or 5 months old and the rig has never had a parasitic draw. Maybe I left something on but I doubt it has developed a draw.
Even when I bought the battery the guy at tue battery store warned me that if I didn't drive it daily I would need to keep it on a maintainer or it would die after a few weeks because it's an agm battery.
I am guessing this is what happened. As for the charger the guy at the auto parts store told me I needed the small 1A charger because I have an agm battery and according to him they need a slow trickle charge over a few days.
Honestly I know nothing about this s*** and I am not feeling like diving into a bunch of research right now.
So the $18.00 trickle charger is my first step
I suspect I will get impatient tomorrow and try to start it with jumper cables.
I use a NOCO trickle charger for my batteries, but have yet to use it in a while.
Installed a stage 3 camshaft from kelford on my 80!
Camshaft link: 284/284 | Stage 3 1FZ-FE - https://kelfordcams.com/product/toyota-1fz-fe-stage-3-high-performance-camshafts
Lots of chop at 850 RPM, mid range is much beefier, powerband feels peakier.
Camshaft link: 284/284 | Stage 3 1FZ-FE - https://kelfordcams.com/product/toyota-1fz-fe-stage-3-high-performance-camshafts
Lots of chop at 850 RPM, mid range is much beefier, powerband feels peakier.
Haha, I am getting that impression. The local parts guy is an idiot.
I don't see any rats nests.
I see a properly installed and fused power cable for an amp running a sub. I see a properly installed and fused power cable running to an amp for door speakers. I also see the factory toyota wiring with a 4 month old fusible link. And lastly a properly installed cable running to a breaker mounted on the fender. Which runs the fuse block inside the cab.
All of which is disconnected while the charger is hooked up.
We can agree to disagree.
I would never have all that hooked up to the one terminal. Properly fused or not.
IMHO the should be hooked up to a proper power distribution point.
It appears that your fusible links are pulled way too tight.
I can see no labeling to what all those wires are going to.
You may know, but someone helping you in an emergency will not. and as time passes, it’s easy to forget.
This is meant to be helpful criticism not to offend,
I’m surprised no one else mentioned it !
RoaringFork
SILVER Star
I installed high range under drive and low range gear sets. I chose to pull the tcase and work on the bench, I am glad I did as I was able to replace the input shaft seal, and ensure the shaft engaged the seal properly. Doing the high range gears requires pulling the input shaft(low range only does not), then installing the shaft back through the seal. With the tcase installed, one could not see the front of the seal and ensure the shaft is through properly.
I followed the tcase removal write up in the FAQ, and the marlin crawler instructions. Neither cover the high range gears, but (for me) it was apparent which gears were which. A press and an assortment of press tools are needed as well as a bearing splitter.
I ordered a tcase rebuilt kit, but only used half(or less) of it. In hind sight I should have ordered parts individually, but I didn’t know exactly what I was getting into, better to have and not need as they say…
Overall, I am very satisfied, the UD gears upped the tach a few hundred RPM, more in the power band, less down shifting on the hills. The low range gear reduction is very noticeable: ascending/descending steep grades and crawling, much more control and much less braking. As far as noise, a very faint gear whine can be observed with radio off, windows up. IMO nothing intrusive, and is easily forgotten about with tire noise, radio, window down.
I followed the tcase removal write up in the FAQ, and the marlin crawler instructions. Neither cover the high range gears, but (for me) it was apparent which gears were which. A press and an assortment of press tools are needed as well as a bearing splitter.
I ordered a tcase rebuilt kit, but only used half(or less) of it. In hind sight I should have ordered parts individually, but I didn’t know exactly what I was getting into, better to have and not need as they say…
Overall, I am very satisfied, the UD gears upped the tach a few hundred RPM, more in the power band, less down shifting on the hills. The low range gear reduction is very noticeable: ascending/descending steep grades and crawling, much more control and much less braking. As far as noise, a very faint gear whine can be observed with radio off, windows up. IMO nothing intrusive, and is easily forgotten about with tire noise, radio, window down.
