What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (22 Viewers)

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$28k is what my buddy got from insurance when he totaled his 80 over the summer. 160k mile low rust well documented cruiser. They offered less at first and he went back and forth to get more for it. They ended up using BAT as comparable comps.
Do you know what their first offer was?
 
Found a nice spot for the yaesu head unit and finally spent a bit of time modeling up various bits and 3D printing to get it the way fitting nicely.

Early protos (the back of the head unit is from yaesu) and the one gopro male 'clip' thing. The rest are 3d printed including the plate with the 4 screws and the base plate. Even the tightener thing.

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After a few fits, I decided the rotate the female base plate 30deg to face the head unit towards me. I didn't use a gopro base, since I wanted it to be bigger to give more 'stick' to the console flat area. Using 3M vhb tape.


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It's completely away from the passenger knees/legs and in a spot where there is nothing that it limits access to. Plenty of room to access the xfer lever etc.

Tomorrow will clean the console surface and stick the base down. Then fish the extension cable from the base unit to the head unit and plug it in.

I'd originally bough a ram gooseneck setup that would bolt under a seat mount, but didn't like that it would be somewhat in the passenger area. I like this solution a lot more. Also easy to unclip the gopro mount and remove it head unit if I need to remove the console etc.

cheers,
george.
If you pull the forward center console off, you'll notice that there's a hollow space next to the useless cup holder under the ash tray. I wonder if it would make sense cut a hole in the plastic and recess a radio into that space. It might be tough to see there around the gear shift. Something I'm going to ponder.
 
Been working on the FJ60 the last few days prepping it for a 4Plus rear bumper. I was down to the cross member, had the rivets out and it was loose but just could not knock it out. I hooked up the 10K Warn on the 80 series and applied some serious pull to it. Still would not come loose. Finally noticed a couple of small tack welds that were impeding progress. Once the welds were dealt with the winch pulled it on out. If I'd noticed the tack welds to begin with I would not have had to utilize the winch on the 80.

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Nothing like bringing a gun to a knife fight...

:lol:
 
finally driving on the dark again. Yay winter. 😒.
So burnt dash bulbs driving me crazy. Did the d light last week. And did the 3 bulbs in the hvac yesterday. And moved the sec light down though it don’t work. And uncovered my battery indicator/charger port.
Added interior pic.

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yeah, for the whole assembly: 19100-66020
the housing ((19235-66020)which has all of the corroded parts) is NLA :(
Just bought and installed a full replacement for mine off PartSouq. Even at $450 i was annoyed i had to replace it for an inner shaft seal leak. Seems like something that should have been serviceable.
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I finally got these two pesky heater hoes replaced. Car is still running lean even though the smoke test doesnt show any vacuum leaks. I guess it's time to check the fuel delivery.

I see that I could put a fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel rail closest to the firewall, but that bolt looks so hard to get to. I'll check around these forums for tips.

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I finally got these two pesky heater hoes replaced. Car is still running lean even though the smoke test doesnt show any vacuum leaks. I guess it's time to check the fuel delivery.

I see that I could put a fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel rail closest to the firewall, but that bolt looks so hard to get to. I'll check around these forums for tips.

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Have you checked your O2 sensors? I was having rich/lean issues and my O2 sensors were out of spec.
 
Have you checked your O2 sensors? I was having rich/lean issues and my O2 sensors were out of spec.
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Reading the FSM, the bank 1 sensor 1 changes above 0.55V and below .4V

I charted the LTFT against the engine load and it seems to rise with load. So it seems to run lean whenever I increase engine load like whenever I accelerate.
 
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Reading the FSM, the bank 1 sensor 1 changes above 0.55V and below .4V

I charted the LTFT against the engine load and it seems to rise with load. So it seems to run lean whenever I increase engine load like whenever I accelerate.

Have you unplugged them and check the resistance?
 
not yet. But how would the resistance compare when it's 40F outside instead of the 68F to check if its within range

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I don't think there would be but worth the check, I recall the limits should be 5.5-6 OHMs max.

What about your 2 coolant temp sensors? There is one that sends a signal to the ECM and the 2nd one sends a signal to the dash. The engine could be in an open loop condition, have you checked your intake hose for leaks? I know you said you did the smoke test but would it show a leak in the intake hose? I guess it depends on where you introduce the smoke too.
 
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I don't think there would be but worth the check, I recall the limits should be 5.5-6 OHMs max.

What about your 2 coolant temp sensors? There is one that sends a signal to the ECM and the 2nd one sends a signal to the dash. The engine could be in an open loop condition, have you checked your intake hose for leaks? I know you said you did the smoke test but would it show a leak in the intake hose? I guess it depends on where you introduce the smoke too.
I checked the fuel system status and it eventually closes once the coolant temps warm up. I plugged the smoke adapter at the beginning of the intake hose, just after the MAF sensor because that's easy to break but it's recently replaced. I didn't try moving it around while the engine is running though because sometimes it won't reveal an issue until after the car starts moving. I'll give that another check.
 
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I don't think there would be but worth the check, I recall the limits should be 5.5-6 OHMs max.

What about your 2 coolant temp sensors? There is one that sends a signal to the ECM and the 2nd one sends a signal to the dash. The engine could be in an open loop condition, have you checked your intake hose for leaks? I know you said you did the smoke test but would it show a leak in the intake hose? I guess it depends on where you introduce the smoke too.
Ok so I reset the fuel trims by disconnecting the battery and after getting the temp up to normal running, arojnd 176F or 80C, the fuel system won't close. stft and ltft are both 0 and not moving.

I tried driving it around and it would struggle and I hear some pops or woofs.
 
finally driving on the dark again. Yay winter. 😒.
So burnt dash bulbs driving me crazy. Did the d light last week. And did the 3 bulbs in the hvac yesterday. And moved the sec light down though it don’t work. And uncovered my battery indicator/charger port.
Added interior pic.

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Did you have any issues with dimming with mix and match incandescent and LED? I’m doing the same thing and my lights arrive tomorrow. Thanks in advance?
 
Did you have any issues with dimming with mix and match incandescent and LED? I’m doing the same thing and my lights arrive tomorrow. Thanks in advance?
No leds here. Been there done that in other cars. They simply don’t last. The dome etc I’m all for but not gauges etc. the 12v usb is wired from the og cig lighter.
 
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Took it to work with me yesterday. She is my daily driver but when I came out of a clients warehouse after doing a quick inventory I thought this is a good picture of her in the AZ sunrise.
 

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