Indeed. Probably only used 2T of the 20T available. Worked great.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (29 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
my 10T dayton press got them out and in. I did have to press out the rubber first on a couple of them, then the metal rim came out fine.
Mine came out a little crooked on first attempt. Used the wits end pucks the on the second go around and it went much smoother. I have a photo somewhere of the mangled control arm 
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Press dies make all the difference in the world.
I have heard this as well. People end up using a sawsall to cut a line in the metal and remove the metal portion that way. The Witt’s End set worked very well.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
I don't know, the local shop I took mine to couldn't do it with his 10T press. I then took it to Valley Hybrids, who got it done. When we did the rear lowers, the 20T worked fine, but I don't think a 10T would've done it. And man, when they pop out, they POP!
I heated the core of the bushing and pushed the melted center section out then used a sawzall to cut the shell followed by an air hammer to remove the old bushing shells. This worked well enough and avoided drama like damaging an arm or other issues that can come with an incorrectly setup pressing situation. Of course if you run the sawzall or air hammer incorrectly you can also damage the arms...
Proper press dies would have made bushing removal faster and easier. If I did this work with any regularity I'd acquire a set.
Installation dies are easier to put together with sockets, pipe fittings, etc. so I went that route and only used a press for bushing install. Install also doesn't require as much force as you can clean and put a film of grease on the surfaces/or similar before pushing the new bushings in.
Alignment is important going in or coming out with a press though, to avoid damaged parts and other drama.
Proper press dies would have made bushing removal faster and easier. If I did this work with any regularity I'd acquire a set.
Installation dies are easier to put together with sockets, pipe fittings, etc. so I went that route and only used a press for bushing install. Install also doesn't require as much force as you can clean and put a film of grease on the surfaces/or similar before pushing the new bushings in.
Alignment is important going in or coming out with a press though, to avoid damaged parts and other drama.
Yeah. Oxidation.
I placed mine on the press, pumped the 20T jack until it wouldn't go anymore, then walked away for 20 minutes. Came back out, whacked the outside of the hoop of the casting and it would finally let loose and start moving. A 12T would have never ever touched it.
And yes, I took great pains to make sure I was pressing straight and with the right diameter sleeve. It was scary as hell when they would finally pop lose, as parts would fly all over the place, then I'd have to reset and continue pressing.
Yeah, I like to play it safe with press work and agree that what you describe sounds pretty scary.
I got the HF 20 ton press for this job and just didn't feel like pushing it with bushing removal after looking the press over. I also didn't feel like getting proper dies and traveling to a better press, etc. thus the torch and sawzall came out
The HF 20T was overkill for bushing install but that safety margin makes sense to me given my trust in the build quality.
I had tried multiple times to get the WE bushing kit because I saw the value and I was willing to pay for it because I'm a sucker for the right tools.Yeah, I like to play it safe with press work and agree that what you describe sounds pretty scary.
I got the HF 20 ton press for this job and just didn't feel like pushing it with bushing removal after looking the press over. I also didn't feel like getting proper dies and traveling to a better press, etc. thus the torch and sawzall came out
He never had them in stock, so I improvised and found sockets and other stuff I had that was extremely close.
Better than the old faded & broken headlights though.
Celebratory drive to work in the 81 today. Passed emissions and finished registration, just need to wait for my vanity plate to come in the mail.
And it’s sounding like he will never have them... but I saw Trail Tailor is going to start offering hardened sets soon.
I read your emissions saga and I’m glad you made it
Saga is a good way to describe it. So glad its over. The actual tailpipe test passed by a mile, so at least that didn't cause any additional undue heartburn lol
If I had the floor space and my own shop.....hell yes!
And a new welder, and hoist, and wash bay, and paint booth, and.......20+ acres to buy and store parts trucks and cars.....and a huge tractor (or payloader) to move around said vehicles.......
Won't happen in my lifetime.
I've just started the undertaking of building exactly that (though only 5 acres).
Somehow I'm still married.
I didn't realize at the time, the luxury of what I had on the farm when I was a wee lad.
40 ft wide x 50 ft long shop on smooth concrete.
Over head hoist.
80 acres to store dead parts cars.
Tractors and skid steers to move stuff about.
No neighbors to worry about bytching at 1:00 in the morning when I finally got it running with no exhaust.
So much more......
I miss it. But I could have never afforded it.
Got my coastal offroad bumper finished, painted and installed.
4 buffing pads and 5 hrs of sanding welds i'm very pleased with how it turned out.
Paint was a 3 coat system, industrial zinc primer for corrosion protection, industrial epoxy midcoat, and sherwin williams urethane topcoat with clear.
The color is "Black Magic" for anyone curious and its VERY close to the factory two tone grey. It has a nice brownish, grey, black tint to it.
Gonna try to stuff some 35s under it in a month or so.
4 buffing pads and 5 hrs of sanding welds i'm very pleased with how it turned out.
Paint was a 3 coat system, industrial zinc primer for corrosion protection, industrial epoxy midcoat, and sherwin williams urethane topcoat with clear.
The color is "Black Magic" for anyone curious and its VERY close to the factory two tone grey. It has a nice brownish, grey, black tint to it.
Gonna try to stuff some 35s under it in a month or so.
