What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (34 Viewers)

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Yes, the Dunes are open for OHV use. Beach camping too... A recent court ruling against the Coastal Commission ended the planned permanent closure in 2024. But I'm sure the fight continues to keep that area open to OHV access.

That’s great to hear, I would like to go back sometime, hopefully in my HDJ81. I like your Slee short bus, I plan on getting the short bus for my LC, hopefully soon.
 
I had the Krown treatment done back in April, I am going to do a touch up with fluid film, I have a wand that can reach into the frame holes and crevices.
Homemade wand or is it part of a kit for undercoating?

I’m wanting to get a set-up for doing touch-ups and untreated areas
 
Finally replaced a fender flare I knocked off last summer at a crawl. Installed an e-locker in the rear. Now both front and rear have them. I had an aussie locker in the back and it definitely worked but noisy as hell for regular driving. Got a few small things I want to finish up before heading to Fall Crawl this weekend.
 
No fun pressure washing in 10º f temperatures, plus having to turn all the hose bibs back on. Then draining freezing hoses, laying in the snow pressure washing not my idea of a good time. I live 30 miles from the nearest car wash, so by the time I got home it would need pressure washing again :). Snow is already falling around the 1300 meter mark, I live at 600 meters, winter is coming.

Well the laying in the snow isn't a concern due to the tool I suggested

The rest sounds fine on the grand scheme of snow wheeling and enjoying my rigs.
 
I took out the 32 tooth gear and put in a 31 tooth gear 3340369225 for 33 inch tires.

I finally changed this gear to match the 33" tires on my 80 and am really glad to have an accurate speedometer at all speeds again, thanks!

I also used the image/guide below from @cartercd during a brake fluid flush, with noticeable improvement. I ran the pump for 5 or 6 seconds between changes from bleeder to bleeder. I typically check fluid levels and the pressure in the bleeder tank every time I get up to move the bleeder bottle so it was easy to also bump the ABS pump for a few seconds at the same time. The brake pedal is noticeably firmer than it has been previously, though the change was small. In recent years I've replaced most of the brake system (mc, hoses, calipers, booster, rotors, pads, lspv, etc.?) and I've regularly flushed the system, including bleeding the ABS pump connections, so it's a little surprising that there was still an improvement to be had, but I'll take it!

An easy way to make the needed connections is to buy a pack of 10 "alligator clip jumpers" that are easy to find online for very little $. You only need 6 jumper wires and there's room on each of the connections for the alligator clip then you can connect them directly to the nearby battery terminals.

Source: Is there a way to trigger ABS actuator to combat spongy breakes? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-a-way-to-trigger-abs-actuator-to-combat-spongy-breakes.309314/page-2#post-12937094

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Removed the ARB and took it for powder coating. Did a rattle can refresh on the grill. Gloss black, then taped off everything but the "fat" bars on the grill and hit them with metallic gun metal grey.
was it difficult to get it off + transport? 1 person job? Mine is getting a little bid rusty.
 
Almost done with duel electric fan conversion. I am excited to see how it performs....
Don't you have a RD radiator? Any particular reason you went these fans over theirs? Just wondering and trying to start educating myself as I'm due for a fan clutch and radiator soon so may just go the aluminum one and done route instead of replacing OEM.
OEM or not, it's still plastic...
I suppose this is pretty convincing:
 
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@RC51 It's definitely easier with two people. I made a landing ramp for it with some wood I had lying around, but you still want someone to catch it when it comes off so it doesn't pitch forward.
 
Don't you have a RD radiator? Any particular reason you went these fans over theirs? Just wondering and trying to start educating myself as I'm due for a fan clutch and radiator soon so may just go the aluminum one and done route instead of replacing OEM.
OEM or not, it's still plastic...
I suppose this is pretty convincing:

I have had a RD, and 2 Lilands including this one. I have tested them both and though the fit and finish of the RD is second to none, there are no performance advantages or disadvantages between the RD and Liland. With that said. Both of them were damaged and left me stranded, one time @ Dishpan trail in Big bear,. and the most recent incident, at the Rubicon trail coming down Cadallic Hill at the bottom just before Rubicon Springs a couple months ago. Both times my fan clutch pushed into my radiator and punctured the top tube just below the top tank. Took out my radiator, fan and fan shroud. I came to the conclusion that the aftermarket alum. unit is a good 1/2 - 3/4" thicker than the factory plastic unit, and when flexed fully, (both times with good motor mounts and tranny mounts in place). The fan ended up clipping the top of the radiator ever so slightly. Long story short, we ended up procuring a Napa plastic unit and continued Rubicon, and proceed to finish Fordyce Trail without any hickup. (thats with a cheap plastic unit and just a small electric fan from Napa.) Now under normal driving circumstances, this would not have happened, at least in my 3 yrs of owning the RD and 2 yrs of owning the Liland units. Anyways, i am trying something different this time around. There is reason why Jeeps went with electric fans from mechanical fans. We shall see how my new setup performs and i will report back.

cheers.
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ML
 
Looks clean with the flares removed and the skinny M55 tires :)
Really like the M55’s, only exception is the road noise. Not terrible but it’s there.
Aired down to 18psi last week and performed perfectly off-road in slick mud, 24” deep water and slimy Atv woods trail.
Fantastic wear rate also!
 
No fun pressure washing in 10º f temperatures, plus having to turn all the hose bibs back on. Then draining freezing hoses, laying in the snow pressure washing not my idea of a good time. I live 30 miles from the nearest car wash, so by the time I got home it would need pressure washing again :). Snow is already falling around the 1300 meter mark, I live at 600 meters, winter is coming.
Truth

Reality of water rinsing an underbody at -10 to -20 Celsius is it freezes instantly as it hits the frozen slush already on the frame and body so it’s basically doing nothing!
Same as taking it to a drive through car wash🤷‍♂️
 
Really like the M55’s, only exception is the road noise. Not terrible but it’s there.
Aired down to 18psi last week and performed perfectly off-road in slick mud, 24” deep water and slimy Atv woods trail.
Fantastic wear rate also!
Oh I'm familiar with the M55 highway noise.... I can even hear it over the 7.3 diesel :)

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Actually had to retire this set due to age (10 years, dry rot) and now I'm running Toyo AT3's.
 
Just stop dude. You clearly know jack s*** about road salt.

Ya you're right. I don't any rigs affected by rust or live in a state with salt brine on the roads...
 

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