So, I was just trying to diag a possible stuck/sticky caliper so I set the cruiser on four jack stands two on each axle. Each wheel only one maybe two inches off the ground. Had my helper shift it from park to drive. The wheels spooled up as they would. When he depressed the pedal to slow the wheels is activated the abs immediately. I tested it a couple more times and each time it activated the abs module.
I’m gonna replace my master and get to the bleeding using the abs activation method we stumbled upon. I’ll report back with an update.
I was recently doing the same thing on my '97 80 series LC up on four jack stands in an attempt to document the speed sensor pulses per mile output. Same thing happened, with the truck at idle I put it in gear and the wheels started spinning when I released the brake. When applying the brake to stop the wheels and place it back in Park the ABS went crazy and made wild growling sounds and vibrations. I reckon this happened because with the wheels in the air (therefore not locked to the ground) and with one or more wheels able to slow at a different rate than the others (probably due to variations in brake disk friction) when the ABS sensed different rates from different wheels it went into action. Actually, it seemed like a good test of the ABS system in terms of confirming it really worked in terms of detecting a wheels stopping at different rates.
Now, how to use all this info as part of the brake bleed process? I'm not so sure... Do you really want to be around a spinning wheel or tire and trying to open a bleeder valve? Seems like it's getting in the danger zone a bit there. Were you successful in doing this?
I'm fixing to install a set of Slee stainless steel brake hoses in a day or three here and have been considering how to do the best brake flush and bleed I can when done.