Spell "lifted".
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Yes. I didn’t have the original key fob but I was able to synch an eBay special. Locks activated and alarm functioned. Needed something updated so it had to go.Was that functioning?
I’ll send it to you care of the museum. Just the control unit?I asked for a selfish reason. I want that controller for my wife's truck...
I'm not sure exactly what I have going. It will arm but not lock. It will unlock with a disarmI’ll send it to you care of the museum. Just the control unit?
I’ll send you everything I have in case it’s a plug.I'm not sure exactly what I have going. It will arm but not lock. It will unlock with a disarm
I have a terrible vibe I haven’t been able to figure out and that is all that’s left. No vibes though. I’ve replaced the rear output bearing, and that didn’t help. It was pristine. I’ve thought about get one from Chris also and rebuilding/regearing. Maybe it will solve this as well.
Check your push rod length and gap. Gasket thickness can affect it. Do you have a tool?No I just mounted booster but wanted to install master cylinder and am missing the paper gasket in between. I think fipg would be even better but just wanted to check with the experts. I don’t like cutting corners and pride myself on doing stuff legit.
Can you share where you bought it?24 years no cracks, just dash fade. Originally a Seattle car. Want some protection here on out.
The dash mat look is growing on me just like I never thought I’d grow to appreciate sheep skin seat covers.
Black is the only color I’d go with. Nice and flat, too. I ain't scared of no .
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Whose bumper is that? Custom? Looks great!Poked around SW Virginia with the doodle
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Got rid of my P0420 code by fixing two exhaust leaks I found. One between the cats and one at the Y-pipe "crotch." New gaskets between the cats and I welded up the Y-pipe as best I could. Stuck my leaf blower up the exhaust pipe and zip tied the throttle wide-open and sprayed the exhaust with soapy water. You’ll find any leaks! Neighbors may look at you funny though.
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Me too. Diffs rebuilt and regeared, new bushings on everything, castor dialed, part time so front doesn’t spin, but it’s new, new rear OEM driveshaft, pinion angle in spec. Middle section of the t-case is the only thing untouched except for the part time conversion in 2009. It’s smooth when turned by hand, but there seems to be excessive slop. T-case has 350k mi so I ain’t mad.I'm at the point of working through the driveline. Just had the rear diff rebuilt then noticed the roughness in rotation of the t-case, so that's been swapped out. In swapping out the t-case I took a closer look at the front diff and it's loose so it's next to come out for a rebuild. There's enough slop in the front diff that the driveshaft nuts at the flange were loose contributing to another source of vibration.
Whose bumper is that? Custom? Looks great!
Hudd ExpoCan you share where you bought it?
I second that! I have both the front and rear BH3D cup holders, and they are awesome. When you think "cup holder" they can seem pricey. But when you think "custom made by a small business specifically for my truck" it's not so bad, lol. Excellent color matching, easy install, and versatile. Will accommodate everything from a 12oz soda can up to a Nalgene.80 Series Landcruiser / LX450 – BH3D Printing
www.bh3dprinting.com
He is a Mud member here.
Yes, they are worth it.
Those look great! I really would love to have the BOR step sliders, but alas he only makes them for '95 and later (mine is '94). Presumably because the cat is in a different spot. I even reached out directly to see if he's make a one-off, but he declined and suggested I look at other vendors. Guess it will be White Knuckle for me at some point.Thank you for the advice to clean the threads, I did this and it definitely helped the installation go smoothly. I think the hardest part of this job was loosening that brake line bracket and squeezing in the u-bolt on the driver side between the frame and fuel tank.
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Me too. Diffs rebuilt and regeared, new bushings on everything, castor dialed, part time so front doesn’t spin, but it’s new, new rear OEM driveshaft, pinion angle in spec. Middle section of the t-case is the only thing untouched except for the part time conversion in 2009. It’s smooth when turned by hand, but there seems to be excessive slop. T-case has 350k mi so I ain’t mad.
You know, it could very well just be the loose nut behind the wheel.If you rule out diffs, drive shafts, t-case, pinion angles, loose driveshaft bolts, etc. then step back and evaluate your cup holders. Have you installed aftermarket, or even OEM cupholders in non-OEM places? Often overlooked is that excessive cupholders and/or cupholder placement can cause a weight bias and introduce difficult-to-diagnose vibrations.
A tool for push rod length? Everything worked out brakes are the best they have ever been.Check your push rod length and gap. Gasket thickness can affect it. Do you have a tool?