What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (32 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Reworked my right swingout and added the left one in anticipation of my jerry can holder arriving. Also changed from the Dobinson caster plates to Landtank plates.
 
Cleaned under my windshield cowl. Glad I did!
IMG_2827.jpg
IMG_2825.jpg
 
Wrapped up a 4,000-mile Northwoods back home pilgrimage with some time spent in Musky Country. Camp's a little loud and the john leaves something to be desired, but the guide beans, all-day bulls**t sessions and aquatic entertainment had my wife agreeing to go back for more next year.

IMG_9552.jpg
IMG_9632.JPG

IMG_9616.jpg
 
Got a not so friendly reminder to check my nuts (and bolts) before AND AFTER wheeling.

View attachment 2774246

I stopped as soon as heard and felt the caliper rubbing. Rim could have been a lot worse.

View attachment 2774251
Oof. Man I had that happen one time right after I left for work. Definitely a real quick attention getter. I ordered 4 extras and keep 3 in the console now.
 
I used mine to mock up and test a new starter kill switch kit I will have on the site for pre orders sometime in the next 10 days or so. The best part is that it requires no wires to be cut. Easy to install and easy to remove.

I suspect this will work on a myriad of Toyota's but have yet to confirm that. It does work perfectly in the FZJ80's.⁠

This kit will include everything needed to install a starter kill switch WITHOUT cutting any wires. 50amp relay, marine wiring, basic on/off switch, etc. Once installed you will have the ability to disable the starter by the simple flip of a switch. The kit requires disconnecting the starter solenoid wire, connecting our kit, mounting the relay, and using the included fuse tap for an 'ignition on' power source. After that, just mount the switch at your favorite hidden location. I also give enough length in the switch wiring that you can mount the switch just about anywhere within reach of the driver.⁠ I would have pictures of it installed in my rig, but I am not going to share that detail;)

More to come.

DSC_0957.jpg
vines-5.jpg
vines-6.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oof. Man I had that happen one time right after I left for work. Definitely a real quick attention getter. I ordered 4 extras and keep 3 in the console now.
Yep. I had a spare, but immediately ordered 4 more. They are going in the truck along with my spare control arm bolts. ...I had one of those drop out in no-mans land between Las Vegas and Bakersfield, after two weeks in Moab. ...That was fun...
 
I just learned what a sugar soap wipe is! Any particular brand? My headliner desperately needs some tlc.
What is this witchcraft?

Selleys Sugar Soap, comes in concentrate or wipe form, works a treat. Work it in, let it soak, reapply, repeat. Wipe away with dry cloth an voila


Today I installed my drl / indicators in anticipation of my orange corner lights which I’ll be converting to indicators to meet Aus regulations.. as far as I’m aware I’ll be one of the few or only to do this in Australia? (AusDM only came with clear corner lights as pictured)

1170C343-00CF-4267-A506-BA5FDC8D849E.jpeg


6242C877-3B4B-4616-8F93-1C9566DCBA30.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I used mine to mock up and test a new starter kill switch kit I will have on the site for pre orders sometime in the next 10 days or so. The best part is that it requires no wires to be cut. Easy to install and easy to remove.

I suspect this will work on a myriad of Toyota's but have yet to confirm that. It does work perfectly in the FZJ80's.⁠

This kit will include everything needed to install a starter kill switch WITHOUT cutting any wires. 50amp relay, marine wiring, basic on/off switch, etc. Once installed you will have the ability to disable the starter by the simple flip of a switch. The kit requires disconnecting the starter solenoid wire, connecting our kit, mounting the relay, and using the included fuse tap for an 'ignition on' power source. After that, just mount the switch at your favorite hidden location. I also give enough length in the switch wiring that you can mount the switch just about anywhere within reach of the driver.⁠ I would have pictures of it installed in my rig, but I am not going to share that detail;)

More to come.

View attachment 2774304View attachment 2774305View attachment 2774306
Great idea - solving a real problem.
 
Got a not so friendly reminder to check my nuts (and bolts) before AND AFTER wheeling.

View attachment 2774246

I stopped as soon as heard and felt the caliper rubbing. Rim could have been a lot worse.

View attachment 2774251
had that happen to me on the rubicon. found the bolt a few feet behind the truck on the ground.
in a pinch a bumper bolt will work so long as you have some washers.
 
had that happen to me on the rubicon. found the bolt a few feet behind the truck on the ground.
in a pinch a bumper bolt will work so long as you have some washers.

+1. Although in my case, luckily i found my caliper bolt sticking on knuckle arms (grease accumulation from weepy knuckle) but i can confirm those bumper bolts fit!

it's scary to hear all the clunking, dragging in middle of nowhere and it felt like i grenaded my tranny/t-case. Left a nice gouge on the wheels.
 
Removed the rear heater lines, removed the heather itself, did the water bypass, water system is with much fewer failure points.
1.jpeg

2.jpeg

3.jpeg

4.jpeg
5.jpeg
 
Replaced the water valve with new, removed the plastic vent from under the armrest, plugged the hold with a piece of aluminum.
6.jpeg
7.jpeg
8.jpeg
 
had that happen to me on the rubicon. found the bolt a few feet behind the truck on the ground.
in a pinch a bumper bolt will work so long as you have some washers.
Only other time it happened to me was also on the Rubicon. If I remember, a shock bolt is almost a direct fit. Shoulder is slightly different length.

At first, I thought I had cracked a Birf the last time I wheeled and it just grenaded. However, telltale sign of a missing bottom caliper bolt is that I could back up, but couldn't go forward. If the top caliper bolt drops you can go forward, but not in reverse.
 
That's crazy how much the exhaust cooks that OEM liner. Mine is the same way and going bye bye with, hopefully, a much better Dynaliner product. In my mind one of the few weak links they had on the 80 I will be happy to move on from, no matter the cost...

1630514605657.png
 
Last edited:
Its tough to tell from pics but I think you need the rear end more over to the left. Thats what Ive had success with if I remember. Although my truck is a lot smaller so Im not sure if that would work with an 80.
View attachment 2775496
Rear driver slipped and it fell in.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom