Why not connect the synthetic line directly to the shackle?
The recommendation is to use as few accessories as possible.
Fewer accessories = fewer failure points.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (63 Viewers)
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The recommendation is to use as few accessories as possible.
Fewer accessories = fewer failure points.
All brand winch Accessories have to try them out!!
Not to be a negative nancy, but do you have any concerns about that high-lift becoming a missile in the event of a wreck? I like the placement and accessibility but I also wonder about those mounting points shearing off if you were to hit something.
What could possible go wrong?
Seriously though. Roof rack, rear tire carriers, Roof tents, jerry cans......hell just about everything we bolt on has not been crash tested to safety standards. I say it looks good so run it.
Actually there's a lot of accepted gear that hasn't ever been crash tested. Crash tests are done mostly for legal liability reasons and performed usually by larger companies. I'm all for coming up with custom solutions so I'm not downing anyone for mounting a high-lift. I was simply pointing out that having a 50lb piece of steel mounted to some thin tabs and a couple small bolts might be a regrettable decision if you hit a deer or a car going 70 mph. Windshield won't stop a medium size bird, much less a steel jack.
Those bolts don't look very small to me...... I would guess they are 1/2".
I totalled my 91 last June, I was not going 70 but I was traveling fast enough to tear body mounts and bend the frame in a head on collision. I had/have a big sub woofer mounted in the back on the ceiling utilizing the rear grab handle mounting holes that most use for an attick rack. That sub weighs more than a high lift and it is held in place with 4 skinny bolts, 10MM if I remember correctly. The bolts are vertical so all the force in the wreck was applied in shear.
When I installed the sub there was a few people who said the bolts would shear in a wreck and kill me. I was worried enough that I ran a saftey strap to the rear most seat belt anchor location.
After my wreck last June I inspected the sub, hard ware, mounting brackets, and threaded holes in the ceiling for any sign of damage or deformation. There was nothing to indicate that it moved or was stressed at all.
I installed the same sub in my new rig without the saftey strap this time....
Again, for clarity, I'm not casting judgement. I'm just pointing out a possibility. Your experience is certainly an insight into this type of situation and I know the "bus full of nuns" mentality can get out of hand. Hopefully nothing ever comes of it and everyone is safe to enjoy their land cruisers for years to come. The only reason I even mentioned it is because I've considered a front bumper mount for my own jack and this was my thought process for my own vehicle.
Sure does
All ponts and counter points are valid. Just a discussion. A little caution and a little knowledge helps for a better decision.
It does look good though!
It does look good though!
Agreed. It does have a nice expo look.
A few years ago, my brother was returning to Austin from a West Texas Mule Deer hunt. He was the lead vehicle in a line of our friends we hunt with. The driver of an oncoming chevy pickup apparently fell asleep, dropped off the pavement and then woke up and over-corrected. He shot into oncoming traffic and hit my brother head-on while they were both doing 70 miles per hour. Everything in and on his Taco became a deadly weapon. Even his hand went through the windshield permanently deforming his pointing finger. His legs were crushed by the impact and he was trapped in the vehicle. It caught fire and his friends put it out with water from their coolers. When two vehicles hit, both going 70 MPH, enormous forces are generated. The rear cab window shattered and many of the things in the truck bed wound up strewn across the highway or in the cab with my brother. The impact was so severe, the tail-lights screws sheared off causing the tail lights to pop out. In the photos they were hanging by the wires.
I have many after-market products in/on my vehicle (see my signature block below) and I am fully aware that some might become deadly projectiles in a wreck like my brothers. It represents the cost of convenience, functionality and accessibility. I do my best to do what you have done and use solid, thick anchors for the equipment. The truth is that many parts of the original equipment can also become deadly projectiles if the accident is severe enough.
I think most people here on Mud have installed after-market products and we are all likely to continue doing so. Thinking it isn't dangerous is foolish so doing it intelligently is the best answer we have.
Pretty sure the ticking noises I was hearing in drive was chunks of the brake rotor shield corroding out and contacting the rotor
Still, knuckle preload is sloppy and the wheel bearing are slack and it makes sense to get it all apart and be sure it's been sorted right. I am in two minds as to whether to swap my wheel bearings out. They look okay but I'm not an expert.
Taking this pretty slow and steady. The goo looks okay to my inexpert eye
Still, knuckle preload is sloppy and the wheel bearing are slack and it makes sense to get it all apart and be sure it's been sorted right. I am in two minds as to whether to swap my wheel bearings out. They look okay but I'm not an expert.
Taking this pretty slow and steady. The goo looks okay to my inexpert eye
Common sense and umbrella insurance. If you have neither I wouldn't hang anything off your vehicle... Especially the umbrella, if you don't have it I would suggest looking into it. Auto insurance does not cover human neglect and in some cases stupidity.
P.S. I'm not an agent and I do think the jack looked cool.., AND would probably do it myself
Ok. Torque question.
The lower PS bolt.
When I’m reinstalling that sucker, it actually passes all the way through to the front and there’s a nut on the other side on the timing chain cover. (Who knew??? I just found that nut randomly under the rig and thought...that’s odd...till I found this diagram)
Does anyone know the variety of torque settings needs to do this properly:
A: mount the stud with the e10 torx
B: install nut on the front side
C install nut on the PS pump side (27ftlbs)
I’m assuming a&b are 27 too, but can only find this ref in the FSM.
Btw. I dumped my unreliable tekton torque wrench and going digital.
The lower PS bolt.
When I’m reinstalling that sucker, it actually passes all the way through to the front and there’s a nut on the other side on the timing chain cover. (Who knew??? I just found that nut randomly under the rig and thought...that’s odd...till I found this diagram)
Does anyone know the variety of torque settings needs to do this properly:
A: mount the stud with the e10 torx
B: install nut on the front side
C install nut on the PS pump side (27ftlbs)
I’m assuming a&b are 27 too, but can only find this ref in the FSM.
Btw. I dumped my unreliable tekton torque wrench and going digital.
Clean install. Looks good!
That is not mine, borrowed the picture from Delta VS. I want it to look like this.
Made some progress on my electrical upgrade..
First ripped out the OEM sub/CD player (LX gang) to make room for my distro/fuse box. Also removed the rear heater (already did the bypass years ago) to make it easier to mount my sub amp.
Turns out the Boss amp died after I put everything back together, so upgraded to a much better amp, and with all the space it made for a clean install (showed it before)
Then removed the OEM sub grille from the center console and made a mounting bracket for this Nilight switch panel
Currently the bracket is mounted via strategic hot glue + permatex black adhesive sealant. Not sure if I'm 100% on this idea, but it works.
Then built up a relay box using this cheapo box, and these busses. If I were to do this again, I would 100% get a box with internal busses, but I like how it came out. I decided to just add 4 relays, and leave the 2 remaining empty for now. Also used this connector to run into the cab switches. Still need to make the wiring harness to go to the switches.
and I'm planning on mounting it here (shop towels keeping it in place), drilling 2 holes in the firewall pinch, spraying some rust-prevention, and then a simple bolt/washer/nut to keep it in place. It's a sturdy box and doesn't weigh too much, so I'm not too worried about it only being mounted on one end. If anyone has an objection to that idea, let me know, but there's no other good place I could find that wouldn't require some custom fab that I don't really want to attempt (yet)
First ripped out the OEM sub/CD player (LX gang) to make room for my distro/fuse box. Also removed the rear heater (already did the bypass years ago) to make it easier to mount my sub amp.
Turns out the Boss amp died after I put everything back together, so upgraded to a much better amp, and with all the space it made for a clean install (showed it before)
Then removed the OEM sub grille from the center console and made a mounting bracket for this Nilight switch panel
Currently the bracket is mounted via strategic hot glue + permatex black adhesive sealant. Not sure if I'm 100% on this idea, but it works.
Then built up a relay box using this cheapo box, and these busses. If I were to do this again, I would 100% get a box with internal busses, but I like how it came out. I decided to just add 4 relays, and leave the 2 remaining empty for now. Also used this connector to run into the cab switches. Still need to make the wiring harness to go to the switches.
and I'm planning on mounting it here (shop towels keeping it in place), drilling 2 holes in the firewall pinch, spraying some rust-prevention, and then a simple bolt/washer/nut to keep it in place. It's a sturdy box and doesn't weigh too much, so I'm not too worried about it only being mounted on one end. If anyone has an objection to that idea, let me know, but there's no other good place I could find that wouldn't require some custom fab that I don't really want to attempt (yet)
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Personally, if there is any question about the condition of the bearings I replace them. I'm sure I have replaced bearings that were probably okay to continue running, but I'd rather know that what is installed is definitely in good condition. I keep old bearings that still look okay as trail spares in the case of a catastrophic bearing failure.
Years ago I mounted a Saab relay box in that location. I fabbed a simple bracket that attaches to existing captured nuts on the inner fender. Remove two screws and the whole thing comes out. Its a great location.
A bit of advice; make sure you leave enough slack when you run your wires to be able to fully remove the box to add circuits or service the brake booster. There is plenty of space underneath for that.
