What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (32 Viewers)

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Doing an axle rebuild and repair. Found some fun damage. Now I’m trying to figure out if the damage to the knuckle ball turns this project from repairing to replacing the entire axle.
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So here is the link fellas but I actually called and spoke to Kurt and ordered w/him. After talking to him for a few, it was discussed that my MC had prob had a leaky internal seal not allowing pressure to build and is why my brake pedal would sink after trying to stop. As stated after driving all day today, city driving, the brakes are awesome. Now I can take my kids on a ride.


Was this used with ABS or along with ABS delete ? I'm looking at a booster replacement soon (Intermitted hard pedal) so it may be a good time to do the MC and AMS delete.. Thanks,
 
Now I’m trying to figure out if the damage to the knuckle ball turns this project from repairing to replacing the entire axle.

Unless you are really on a budget with this rig I'd say yes to replacing that inner axle and any thing else with that much damage. How do the drive flanges look? How about the other/diff end of the shaft?
 
Unless you are really on a budget with this rig I'd say yes to replacing that inner axle and any thing else with that much damage. How do the drive flanges look? How about the other/diff end of the shaft?

I meant replacing the axle housing itself due to the damage on the ball. The inner axle shaft and spider gear will be replaced at a minimum. Drive flanges look good, outer shafts look good. The photo I posted is of the diff side of the shaft.
 
The photo I posted is of the diff side of the shaft.

Sorry, delay between seeing pics and responding on my end and I mixed up which end had been shown as all chewed up.

It seems like the inner axle/birf was moving around in the housing more than it should, does that seem the case to you and any clear reason why?

From what I understand if the birf joint is not in correct position relative to the knuckle pivot point it can lead to binding which could contribute to stressing the inner axle splined interface perhaps? The wear on the splines and inner end of the axle seem to indicate that the axle had slid too far out while the damage in the knuckle that the birf was going too far in unless I'm looking at things wrong. I guess it could have done both?

Any other clues on your end like mismatched drive flanges, missing snapring/bushing for birf or other damage patterns?

Also, I'm not sure I'd replace the whole housing just because of that damage on the knuckle ball but I'd want to understand what happened before deciding.
 
Also, I'm not sure I'd replace the whole housing just because of that damage on the knuckle ball but I'd want to understand what happened before deciding.

I agree with this. As long as the cups where the trunnion bearing races are not damaged I don't see the need to replace the knuckle or axle housings.

More important would be the condition of the spindle. The brass bushing or needle bearing would most likely be damaged. I would also closely inspect for wear on the spindle where the wheel bearings ride.
 
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Was this used with ABS or along with ABS delete ? I'm looking at a booster replacement soon (Intermitted hard pedal) so it may be a good time to do the MC and AMS delete.. Thanks,

So this T100 MC comes set up for ABS. Not sure if there is one w/o it. And I kept all ABS stuff on my rig. Also, not sure if you've checked the valve on the booster, worth a shot checking, before you spend big $$ on a new one.
 
I agree with this. As long as the cups where the trunnion bearing races are not damaged I don't see the need to replace the knuckle or axle housings.

More important would be the condition of the spindle. The brass bushing or needle bearing would most likely be damaged. I would also closely inspect for wear on the spindle where the wheel bearings ride.

Thank you guys for your input. I’ll clean and inspect everything and see if I can figure out what caused the failure.
 
I would also closely inspect for wear on the spindle where the wheel bearings ride.

You called it. Spindle is grooved badly where the wheel bearing rides.

*correction, the deep grooving is where the oil seal sits*

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My '91 is getting some service performed (rear main seal, front input shaft seal, et al.), in the meantime I've been prepping some items to go on the moment I get it back. Picked up a later model center console with armrest and replaced the tired original cover. Also got some 315/75/16 tires mounted and balanced on brand new 16x8 RPT1s.

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My '91 is getting some service performed (rear main seal, front input shaft seal, et al.), in the meantime I've been prepping some items to go on the moment I get it back. Picked up a later model center console with armrest and replaced the tired original cover. Also got some 315/75/16 tires mounted and balanced on brand new 16x8 RPT1s.

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Post up some pics when you get the Coopers mounted. Interested to see what they look like.
 
I'm not trying to clutter the thread, so anyone with input feel free to pm me. To those that have done a lot of brake work recently, what do you watch/feel/listen for in the first few miles? My drive back to my buddy's house after new rotors, pads, calipers and soft lines was only 3 miles but there was a pretty evil smell wafting up from the wheels. I've never done my own brake work before, so aside from something super obvious, I don't know what to keep my eye on.
Yes, the brakes will smell hot when installed new.

You should also go through the "bedding the brakes" process. You can search this or PM me for more details. I have posted the procedure here before.
 
The new rig is super clean for guy who goes wheeling. The first few dents are hard to accept... why the swap? Got a turbo on your mind?
Wanted to go obd2 more stuff still around for these years, I will still wheel sthis just have to watch tire placement, really my dents in the other truck were all preventable. The 96 is like a time capsule everything is in such good shape. I guess time will tell!
I originally was just gonna throw a new engine in the 94 which is tired at this point and had some noise that’s been there for 25k(won’t die just drinks Dino blood) then found another 96 with low miles that was clean body and trashed leather interior that I was gonnapick up for cheap, but then it had tranny issues that when I had it for the weekend couldn’t figure out. So kept looking tossed around doing v8 into the 94, found this one said **** it bought it and swapped over
 
Didn't have my 80 with me but I spent the past week in Baja with Canguro Racing. Been helping the race team for 10 years now and it is always a highlight of each year in Baja. I was a chaser again this year. We spent a few days before the race camping near San Felipe, and prerunning a couple sections of the race course in the chase trucks. Be assured there is some gnarly sh*t on the race course as there is every year. Most of the race course can be driven by "overlanders" without much drama but puttering along in a weekend wheeling rig is nowhere close to driving the same roads at race speeds. It's a 36 hr blender even for race prepped vehicles.

I'm amazed every year at how the Canguro Racing 200 series holds up to the relentless thrashing of the Baja 1000. I know many view the 80 series as the last "real" Land Cruiser and that the 100 and the 200 were a turn away from the toughness the LC name has been known for. But the fact that the CR 200 is essentially a completely stock 200 with the exception of some really good shocks and a race cage is not to be overlooked. 100% stock drivetrain/axles, except for some 4.88's and a rear ARB locker. Stock steering, stock UCAs and lower A arms, stock rear suspension links. That means stock like suspension travel in a sport where massive amounts of suspension travel is a huge benefit. The 200 series is one badass brawler. There's nothing "soft" about them when the sh*t gets real.

the CR 200 once again landed at the top of the podium with a successful race with only a couple hiccups including a long delay stuck in a silt bed up to the frame. Good times!

Here's a selection of pics from the week.

San Felipe sunrise from my sleeping bag.
2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Prerunning Matomi wash in the chase rigs. There were some big rocks in this canyon.
2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

One highlight of the trip was checking out the Chenowth Legacy Lodge and museum and being fortunate enough that the legendary Lynn Chenowth was there and spent time chatting with us, showing us pics of some of his new builds on his phone, and sharing a bunch of awesome stories with us. He's the real deal. Really cool place.
2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

2020 Baja1000 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 

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