Doing an axle rebuild and repair. Found some fun damage. Now I’m trying to figure out if the damage to the knuckle ball turns this project from repairing to replacing the entire axle.
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Wow, how does that happen?Doing an axle rebuild and repair. Found some fun damage. Now I’m trying to figure out if the damage to the knuckle ball turns this project from repairing to replacing the entire axle. View attachment 2504600View attachment 2504601View attachment 2504602
So here is the link fellas but I actually called and spoke to Kurt and ordered w/him. After talking to him for a few, it was discussed that my MC had prob had a leaky internal seal not allowing pressure to build and is why my brake pedal would sink after trying to stop. As stated after driving all day today, city driving, the brakes are awesome. Now I can take my kids on a ride.
Brake Master Cylinder - Fits T-100 w/ 1-1/16" Bore Applications (BKN34031N)
Toyota Land Cruiser Brake Master Cylindercruiserteq.com
Wow, how does that happen?
Now I’m trying to figure out if the damage to the knuckle ball turns this project from repairing to replacing the entire axle.
Unless you are really on a budget with this rig I'd say yes to replacing that inner axle and any thing else with that much damage. How do the drive flanges look? How about the other/diff end of the shaft?
Replace.Doing an axle rebuild and repair. Found some fun damage. Now I’m trying to figure out if the damage to the knuckle ball turns this project from repairing to replacing the entire axle. View attachment 2504600View attachment 2504601View attachment 2504602
The photo I posted is of the diff side of the shaft.
Also, I'm not sure I'd replace the whole housing just because of that damage on the knuckle ball but I'd want to understand what happened before deciding.
Was this used with ABS or along with ABS delete ? I'm looking at a booster replacement soon (Intermitted hard pedal) so it may be a good time to do the MC and AMS delete.. Thanks,
I agree with this. As long as the cups where the trunnion bearing races are not damaged I don't see the need to replace the knuckle or axle housings.
More important would be the condition of the spindle. The brass bushing or needle bearing would most likely be damaged. I would also closely inspect for wear on the spindle where the wheel bearings ride.
I would also closely inspect for wear on the spindle where the wheel bearings ride.
Post up some pics when you get the Coopers mounted. Interested to see what they look like.My '91 is getting some service performed (rear main seal, front input shaft seal, et al.), in the meantime I've been prepping some items to go on the moment I get it back. Picked up a later model center console with armrest and replaced the tired original cover. Also got some 315/75/16 tires mounted and balanced on brand new 16x8 RPT1s.
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Yes, the brakes will smell hot when installed new.I'm not trying to clutter the thread, so anyone with input feel free to pm me. To those that have done a lot of brake work recently, what do you watch/feel/listen for in the first few miles? My drive back to my buddy's house after new rotors, pads, calipers and soft lines was only 3 miles but there was a pretty evil smell wafting up from the wheels. I've never done my own brake work before, so aside from something super obvious, I don't know what to keep my eye on.
Wanted to go obd2 more stuff still around for these years, I will still wheel sthis just have to watch tire placement, really my dents in the other truck were all preventable. The 96 is like a time capsule everything is in such good shape. I guess time will tell!The new rig is super clean for guy who goes wheeling. The first few dents are hard to accept... why the swap? Got a turbo on your mind?
what is the thickness of the wall and do you know the total weight of that box