What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (35 Viewers)

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I got new 10% under drive gears installed. My good friend Mike did the install. Thanks Shoppy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Front Swaybar Bushings and Links.

Old bushings were the originals and I should have done this a LONG time ago. All bushings had deteriorated from use and having been oil soaked. Links weren't completely shot...but very loose feeling and I replaced them as well.

Panhard bushings are on tomorrows list.

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Edit: Checked my Panhard Bushings this morning and found them to still be serviceable. So rather than make that my only project today, I will just do them later when I look at the rear suspension and what it needs. One good thing....I didn't have to fight any rusty bolts to remove the Panhard and inspect it. So glad I don't live in the 'rust belt'.

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I've done the bushings a couple of times but not the links.

:hhmm:
 
Couple weeks but Sequoia NP then Joshua Tree NP.
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New-to-me rig. Pulled all rear seats and cleaned in prep for simple camper platform. All good, easy time killer with a beer, and utilized rear cubbies & storage on backs of seat covers to re-organize my gear. In the process of cleaning I found I’ve got “the” sunroof drain clog/leak to front floor, primarily driver. Now I know why the PO decided to seal the sunroof from the outside. Dingleberry, shoulda looked into it before getting caulk-happy. Guess it finally wore out.

Motor still works great though. In the process of fixing the leak I’ll probably end up with a sunroof I can use again. Hard part is doing this without a garage in Southeast Alaska. Rain-city, especially this summer.
i rerouted my sunroof drain to flow directly to the ground instead of the rocker panel.
 
Finally got around to overhauling the front brakes. Reman calibers, painted w/POR-15, new pads and rotors and brakes lines. Next up is rear.

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Nice job. That is on my list as well. I started on the rear brakes, repack wheel bearings, new seals yesterday. Found that I have a leak in the Driver's side caliper, so I have a rebuild kit on order. But my wheel bearings, races and spindles all looked good. Amazing how long they last. (316K miles on my rig). Good time to inspect and adjust the parking brake shoes as well.

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Started rebuilding the rear hubs and changing the rear brakes. Was going to replace the e-brake shoes and hardware then discovered why the e-brake wasn't really working. The bellcrank arms/pins were completely rusted in place. After spending about an hour trying to get it apart, I said fk it and ordered all new hardware. While I wait for that, I'm cleaning all the rust from everything and repainting the hubs, calipers, backing plates, etc...
 
Yesterday I was thinking about how I botched setting the throttle position sensor when I built the motor. I followed someone's instructions to use a obd2 reader to set the % open at idle. Have been chasing a slight stumble at idle and couldn't figure it out.
Followed the FSM, used a mighty vac to open the throttle body actuator, used feeler gauges and measured resistance til it dropped off.

Was a painfully annoying process following the fsm, that would have been much easier if my multimeter had alligator clips.
Truck idles better and drives better on roadI build boost significant faster and the cruiser drives waaaaay better on road.
Also checked bearing preload, greased bird cavity, clocked turbo down further to clear hood better, added some grease to my slip yoke which seems to have gotten rid of the vibration under suspension compression on the highway when turning right.

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Didn't do anything super special except for get a bunch of trail spare parts together at @Deathvalleypaul 's place (thanks for all the help and advice!)

USPS did just deliver a pile of treats on my door though...
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I've had a clunk noise I haven't been able to figure out for the past month. I had checked ALL the things, seriously. When I checked the radius arm bushings while they were on the truck they still looked good so I checked that off as not the problem. Well, after seriously checking just about every other possible culprit, I pulled the radius arms today and a few of the sleeves had separated from the rubber. Not something I could see while they were on the truck.

So I pressed in new OEM radius arm bushings today and voila! - no more clunk. Nice to finally have that not causing me headaches.
Radius arm bushings by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Radius arm bushings by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Radius arm bushings by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

New bushings
Radius arm bushings by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
I have a clunk on the front end passenger side that feels like it must be the radius arms, wonder if I have the same issue! only happened after I did my lift with camber plates.
 
FINALLY replaced a fender flare that's been hanging on by a thread for 8 years. :rolleyes: And installed a backup cam, a gift from the kids last Christmas, to go with my CarPlay deck. Bonus: Located the CDL wiring harness, for another day! 😜
out with the old:
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In with the "new":
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Next up, rebuilding front axle and dealing with the ol' oil pump cover gasket leak.
 
If you open the ki
Did you use a single hose from the sunroof assembly all the way down to the frame, or something else?
if You open either DS or PS kick panels, you’ll find the black vinyl hose. I pulled mine out, added ams slipped a tight fitting, slightly wider section of hose. The hose now runs into the black floor board plug inboard of where it used to be. If you pop the kick panel, you’ll find the plug I’m talking about. Even With the hose running outside of the stock location, the kick panel is still able to cover it up.
 
i rerouted my sunroof drain to flow directly to the ground instead of the rocker panel.
I may do that eventually. Finally had about an hour break from the constant rain, stuck a paperclip in rocker panel slit. PS was clear, but driver didn’t want to go in more than half inch. Played around and finally got it to poke through, gave it a good scrub from all angles and all the sudden a bunch of dirty water started pouring out. I imagine the hoses are likely okay.. at least I hope

Also have “the” leaky windshield. Appears to only be bottom PS corner, and it looks like, although not OEM glass, the gasket is solid and they did definitely use sealant all around. Just appears to have worn out at that corner. Should be easy to seal, but couldn’t find the right sealant locally, had to order.

So, I think DS floor was wet from that drain (much more water), and PS wet from the window (not as soaked) as I can track the leak there. I have the carpet propped up and everything is mostly dry, and luckily no rust.
 
If you open the ki

if You open either DS or PS kick panels, you’ll find the black vinyl hose. I pulled mine out, added ams slipped a tight fitting, slightly wider section of hose. The hose now runs into the black floor board plug inboard of where it used to be. If you pop the kick panel, you’ll find the plug I’m talking about. Even With the hose running outside of the stock location, the kick panel is still able to cover it up.

Good easy idea. I have those plugs temporarily removed to keep the slow leak from pooling up while I wait for a dry day.. may just go ahead and do that mini mod.

In other news, CDL switch is delivering today, so will be doing that.
 

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