ewillis
SILVER Star
We call that French cut 'round here...
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (53 Viewers)
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malteserunner
Dr Evil
Got a pic of the bumper getting welded up. Still a lot to do, but it's getting there.
In the meantime, I've been working on my M416. New tongue, tub repair, and a rack for the RTT. Max Coupler is in the mail.
In the meantime, I've been working on my M416. New tongue, tub repair, and a rack for the RTT. Max Coupler is in the mail.
Organized the First Israel TLC 2020 gathering for all LC models that were not imported By Toyota Israel
Pics on my build thread
forum.ih8mud.com
Pics on my build thread
Builds - Build Thread - my Enola Gay FZJ80 1994
Key switch change Noise form a belt poly replaced by OEM
forum.ih8mud.com
Congratulations on the new short block, that's exciting. I'm going to sharing with you from my experiences with new Toyota short blocks. During my 80 rehab I've had two brand new short blocks in the last 12 months. The first one, with Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil, had an issue and the piston rings didn't seat properly. it was the pits to deal with, down time, cost on new seals and fluids, etc. Toyota diagnosed it and warranty claimed it - great outcome there. The new replacement engine is in and running perfect now. The break in process I now follow was suggested by Robbie. 1st 500 miles on conventional oil, Change it and run the same kind of oil for another 500 miles. Then change again with the same conventional oil and run for 1000 miles. Once those mileage markers have been hit change the oil again but switch it up with Shell Rotella T6. You may have your own system for breaking in an engine, hopefully you do and can avoid the lesson I learned.
cheers
Installed Metal-Tech sliders
-Installed a 4-7 pin adaptor and a Redarc tow-pro. I’m still working outa kink in the tow-pro. It won’t come out of calibration mode. I believe the brake light circuit is not making a good contact.
-Installed a 4-7 pin adaptor and a Redarc tow-pro. I’m still working outa kink in the tow-pro. It won’t come out of calibration mode. I believe the brake light circuit is not making a good contact.
Had my new 80 dropped off to 60/80 V8 Master Stan @NCFJ last night (huge thx again @Reservation Cody ) for a previous V8 swap clean up, new electrical and speedhut gauges install, Lokar Shifter install, Front Knuckle rebuild, get the A/C working and new bushings underneath to start.....
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jfz80
Cruisin’
congrats. I had been eying the Clist add and had picked a couple likely Suspects for the Sylva area. Shoulda known.
Yea great Carolina guys! Lucky to get to meet both of them now. AZ Rig has great bones, no rust with the V8 swap already done. A little TLC will make this rig a beast!
Liked the horn idea so much, I ordered a set for my LX
The 5261AB was replaced by the AC. 
chatt100
SILVER Star
Got stranded on the side of the highway on the way to work 
Got a flat and like an idiot I have never checked to see if the truck came with the bar used to lower the spare tire.
Surprise, it did not! Thankfully TDOT showed up and rigged up something to get the spare out.
Does anyone know where I can buy a bar to lower the spare?
Got a flat and like an idiot I have never checked to see if the truck came with the bar used to lower the spare tire.
Surprise, it did not! Thankfully TDOT showed up and rigged up something to get the spare out.
Does anyone know where I can buy a bar to lower the spare?
I bought a complete tool kit and Jack from a salvage yard out of a 2007 Tundra. It had never been used and works great! I over paid at $100.Got stranded on the side of the highway on the way to work
Got a flat and like an idiot I have never checked to see if the truck came with the bar used to lower the spare tire.
Surprise, it did not! Thankfully TDOT showed up and rigged up something to get the spare out.
View attachment 2344655
Does anyone know where I can buy a bar to lower the spare?
I had the same problem, no bar, so I made one with square tubing and a bit of round bar.
chatt100
SILVER Star
Thanks I wasn't sure if other Toyota models would work. I have the jack so hopefully can save some money and just find a bar
Found the following in my old parts collection. Missing one square head set screw which would be easy enough to replace with a hardware store bolt that you then squared the head of with a grinder. Could use some rust converter in a few spots as well to stabilize things. Glad to trade for something random/interesting or for a 6 pack of something interesting, I like cider
Let me know and I can PM you where I am (close to downtown) so that you can drop by to pick it up.
Let me know and I can PM you where I am (close to downtown) so that you can drop by to pick it up.
Getting hot here so I am just working on small simple things.
First was replacing the firewall steering shaft seal (from Wit's End). Very satisfying to replace.
Next, previous owner had installed manual locking hubs. Surface finish on the hub face was leaving much to be desired, so I took them off to clean them up and repaint them. Painted with metallic black night metallic and dark copper metallic Rust-Oleum cans. Replaced detent springs and little ball bearing along with new hub dial gaskets, and hub gaskets from Cruiser Outfitters.
I saw that the axles were missing snap rings on both ends - I suppose PO took them off and for whatever reason did not put them back on. Hub cavity was also overly stuffed with grease. Took out all the old grease and re-greased everything. Ordered snap rings from toyota along with new bolts.
When things cool down this fall I will clean up the hub body when I put in new axle seals.
Now that my hubs have been repainted the wheel paint is definitely looking pretty crappy. How involved would it be to strip the paint and leave them with just metal surface finish? Or would it be better to just repaint them black?
First was replacing the firewall steering shaft seal (from Wit's End). Very satisfying to replace.
Next, previous owner had installed manual locking hubs. Surface finish on the hub face was leaving much to be desired, so I took them off to clean them up and repaint them. Painted with metallic black night metallic and dark copper metallic Rust-Oleum cans. Replaced detent springs and little ball bearing along with new hub dial gaskets, and hub gaskets from Cruiser Outfitters.
I saw that the axles were missing snap rings on both ends - I suppose PO took them off and for whatever reason did not put them back on. Hub cavity was also overly stuffed with grease. Took out all the old grease and re-greased everything. Ordered snap rings from toyota along with new bolts.
When things cool down this fall I will clean up the hub body when I put in new axle seals.
Now that my hubs have been repainted the wheel paint is definitely looking pretty crappy. How involved would it be to strip the paint and leave them with just metal surface finish? Or would it be better to just repaint them black?
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It might be time to get rid of the 100lb tire carrier (40+ HP); then, secure the tire in the back (20+ HP); or obtain a new bumper that holds the tire (30+ HP). . Either way, you'll gain at least 60 HP! Wahooooeeeee! let it fly!Got stranded on the side of the highway on the way to work
Got a flat and like an idiot I have never checked to see if the truck came with the bar used to lower the spare tire.
Surprise, it did not! Thankfully TDOT showed up and rigged up something to get the spare out.
View attachment 2344655
Does anyone know where I can buy a bar to lower the spare?
Zona
