What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (72 Viewers)
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All windows are complete. Door card “leather” is a wee bit tattered towards the top. All in all good refresh. And windows roll up and down much more easily.
RoaringFork
SILVER Star
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
You get over it pretty quickly.
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Looks like Mr. Miyagi's house. Wax on Danielson!
ghetto but effective. great way to be. will be adding a fancier, permanent application soon but for now they work
I finally finished up my 1.5 weeks long ABS/LSPV delete. Along with deleting the ABS and LSPV I installed a new booster and master cylinder too.
So this morning before it got too hot here in AZ I went and bled the brakes on my Land Cruiser. I used the Mityvac MV8000 Vacuum/Bleeder from Harbor Freight. The bleeder made things so much easier than the two men method. The only thing that I had to do was make sure I stopped every so often to ensure I was not emptying out the reservoir. For peace of mind, I bleed the system a full 3 times to ensure that I was getting clean new fluid out of the bleeder screws.
The with the newish booster/master and deleting the LSPV and ABS pump the brakes are so much better now. Here in a few months, I will be replacing the axle to caliper lines with stainless steel lines. I have the frame to axle lines in now and I am sure that has helped the feeling in the pedal.
The Mityvac was a great purchase, it cost me $45 and came with a few attachments for bleeding and testing different vacuum parts on cars. It also came with some great reviews versus the 2 others available at Harbor Freight. One of the reviews I watched the gentleman mentioned that he had his for nearly 10 years.
So this morning before it got too hot here in AZ I went and bled the brakes on my Land Cruiser. I used the Mityvac MV8000 Vacuum/Bleeder from Harbor Freight. The bleeder made things so much easier than the two men method. The only thing that I had to do was make sure I stopped every so often to ensure I was not emptying out the reservoir. For peace of mind, I bleed the system a full 3 times to ensure that I was getting clean new fluid out of the bleeder screws.
The with the newish booster/master and deleting the LSPV and ABS pump the brakes are so much better now. Here in a few months, I will be replacing the axle to caliper lines with stainless steel lines. I have the frame to axle lines in now and I am sure that has helped the feeling in the pedal.
The Mityvac was a great purchase, it cost me $45 and came with a few attachments for bleeding and testing different vacuum parts on cars. It also came with some great reviews versus the 2 others available at Harbor Freight. One of the reviews I watched the gentleman mentioned that he had his for nearly 10 years.
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I'm going to steal that idea for my sun roofghetto but effective. great way to be. will be adding a fancier, permanent application soon but for now they work
Cleaned up the deer hunting land.
I ended up doing my first real tow test with the 1HDT. Background: I have stock gears, Gturbo at 23psi, PDI intercooler with trans cooler, Wholesale A442f, 35s and armor. Here's the test, I bought a 22' boat (3350 lb dry weight) so, with the trailer and fuel on the boat, I was at around 5000 lbs... maybe a hair more. The terrain was constant hills with very steep climbs. Power was really good. Even when starting on a steep uphill at a light, the torque got me moving really well. EGTs were in the high yellow for lots of the hills.... and I had to lift throttle in a couple of places. But, I got to the speed limit and held it really well. Overall, I'm really impressed with the setup.
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Finally tackled these bypass hoses, pcv hoses, and brake booster hoses. Mine were WORN. Very surprised the pcv valve came out in one piece. All of these hoses were not pliable and rotting from the inside out. They felt like metal hoses.
Took the FJ80 (3FE power
Super sick picture!!
Had big plans for today. Was going to do a 5 tire rotation, check (and probably fill - the balls look dry) the birfields, upgrade the headlight bulbs, and install a new heater control valve. First time for any of this for me. Removed the spare, got the jack under the differential on the rear end and found out my 6T jack stands from HF are way too short. Tried the front end and learned the passenger wheel comes off the ground a good foot if not more before the driver side clears. Jack stands are even more too short for the front end. Got on here and tried some search terms to see if I could figure out what I'm doing wrong or what others have done to increase the height of the jack stands. Didn't find anything. After a couple hours of higher math to figure out what wood I needed and to what lengths I could get it cut to fit in the 80 while minimizing off-cuts I set out to home depot to buy supplies. $200 later I made four 10.5 inch tall jack stand pads I can barely lift and picked me up one of those Gorilla adjustable height work platform things. Not only could I use it for a workbench standing up but I can lower it down and use it to stand on to get to the heater control valve (one of my head scratchers solved). Noticed what I think is a pinion seal leak looks pretty ugly - probably gonna have to figure out how to do that sooner rather than later. Sure will be nice to get the truck pretty high to get under there for that. But I didn't get anything done I set out to do.....
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Cut and hauled some firewood. 12 miles up a forest service road I've adopted. So we picked up trash along the way. Cutting done at 11,250' Nice escape from the heat down below.
Started on the journey to replace the oil pump seal (rounded one screw head, grrr), replace the harmonic balancer crank bolt seal (thank you 3/4" breaker bar and starter motor), replace the radiator, and remove the lateral arms using my 3ton floor jack and 1/2" breaker bar for muscle on the 24mm bolts.
ToyotaDon
I am here
For the work you're trying to do, jack and jack stands under the axle should have worked fine. You usually only need jack stands under the frame when doing suspension work. The front axle will lift at an angle if you put the jack under the differential. That just means you need to lift it higher to get one side on a stand before lowering the other to the same height.
While that is some very impressive woodworking and block making, those jack stands are tall enough to support the truck both from the frame as well as the differential to rotate the tires. Rotating tires does NOT require that the axles hang at the full suspension droop.
Just jack it up under the axle housing, place a stand, jack up the other side and place a stand. Do this for front and rear. You need four stands total. Or, if you sequence it correctly, you only need one stand since you are planning on doing a 5 tire rotation.
You do realize that the center support raises up about 10"-12" and has a locking "ratchet" that holds it in place?
Installed some 30mm coil spring spacers to level the old girl out. Sourced some FJ Cruiser steelies and threw on some new rubber (bfg mt 255/75r17). Loving the look and suits us perfectly for the mild wheeling we tend to do.
Decided we needed an overnighter away from the kids - so we lowered the seats and threw in a 4x6 sheet of plywood, a mattress and set off! Are we overlanding yet?
Glacier National Park is a favorite of ours. The new setup performed well on the logging roads we encountered (as expected). Steering feels light and overall feels a little more peppy and nimble (coming from 285/75r16).
Decided we needed an overnighter away from the kids - so we lowered the seats and threw in a 4x6 sheet of plywood, a mattress and set off! Are we overlanding yet?
Glacier National Park is a favorite of ours. The new setup performed well on the logging roads we encountered (as expected). Steering feels light and overall feels a little more peppy and nimble (coming from 285/75r16).
Beautiful Glacier Park!
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
Finally wheeled it! (p.s., sorry for ugly heep on vid thumbnail)
