What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (47 Viewers)

[LS1FJ40]

In all reality, I won’t complain about anything that is in there if I get it for what we discussed yesterday.

My guess is that the 6 rigs in there are at some point of restoration/disassembly.

Yeah 55's are cool too. Can't go wrong with either one. I am not a 60/62 fan yet. lol.

 

[Redgrrr]

Your gonna be the part out king round here, please share the goodies!

 

[Dubbinchris]

Played down in KY over the weekend. Impressed a few Heeps in the process.

 

[hamishpotter]

View attachment 1570024 View attachment 1570023

Played down in KY over the weekend. Impressed a few Heeps in the process.

looks perfectly normal minus the green light saber

 

[Marine7]

I don’t want to find out. There has been an influx of 80’s in my area lately, and I have noticed a couple sans bumpers.

Thanks for the tips @ppc

I believe I would move!

 

[Box Rocket]

This is pretty cool how difficult?!

Wasn't terrible.

Nice!!! Care to do a quick write up ? Cost of seats, etc. Thanks!

I paid $150 for both seats. Had steel on hand to build the brackets.

I posted this in my build thread and there are a few more photos, but the brackets are two simple "bars". One across the front and one for the rear. I used 1" square tube and some 3/16" plate for the tabs that bolt it to the seat rails. This gives somewhere to weld on the mounting feet in the right locations.

You MUST remove the rear heater under the passenger seat. You'll have a hole in the floor where the heater lines were that you'll need to cover and you might want to find a piece of carpet to fill the hole where the factory carpet didn't cover. With the rear heater removed you might choose to complete remove the rear heater lines, but this is a PITA. I just used a piece of heater hose to bypass (connect) the two lines under the floor since those are now open after you removed the heater.

Also, because the rails on the VW seats are much wider than the Cruiser ones you need to notch or flatten the raised rib in the floorboard (where it starts to go vertical over the trans tunnel where the front of the seat bolts to the floor). If you don't do this the seat will be too high and too far to the outside and the doors won't close. I just flattened it some with a hammer to give enough clearance for the seat to be in the right position.

The seat heaters are pretty straight forward but I haven't wired them yet. Should just need power and ground and switch. I have heard that these seat heaters aren't the most reliable but I guess I'll find out.

Same thing for the power recline. Just had to find the right wires in the VW plug (red/greystripe and brown in the large black plug) and make a new connection to the Toyota power seat wires.

 

[Marine7]

Little fall fun at Uwharrie

I sure hope that stock Heep didn’t have to help you out! For shame... for shame

 

[Marine7]

i'm gonna have to get some of that simple green stuff if it transforms my engine bay to look like that

I think he just sold 1000’s of bottles of Simple Green! I’m going to buy some now.... turn my 3F into a V8!

 

[Marine7]

Cooking breakfast Meets the three minute maximum LCP time guidelines

View attachment 1568602

God..... I envy how you can just jump in the cruiser, and run out for a quick overnight trip! Anywhere around me (Coastal Carolina) requires a 4-5 hour drive, one way, and not nearly the scenery you have! ....... I should of went west!! Lol

 

[Dubbinchris]

looks perfectly normal minus the green light saber

Yeah, glad that guy wasn’t in my group.

 

[gsi18867]

Wasn't terrible.


I paid $150 for both seats. Had steel on hand to build the brackets.

I posted this in my build thread and there are a few more photos, but the brackets are two simple "bars". One across the front and one for the rear. I used 1" square tube and some 3/16" plate for the tabs that bolt it to the seat rails. This gives somewhere to weld on the mounting feet in the right locations.

You MUST remove the rear heater under the passenger seat. You'll have a hole in the floor where the heater lines were that you'll need to cover and you might want to find a piece of carpet to fill the hole where the factory carpet didn't cover. With the rear heater removed you might choose to complete remove the rear heater lines, but this is a PITA. I just used a piece of heater hose to bypass (connect) the two lines under the floor since those are now open after you removed the heater.

Also, because the rails on the VW seats are much wider than the Cruiser ones you need to notch or flatten the raised rib in the floorboard (where it starts to go vertical over the trans tunnel where the front of the seat bolts to the floor). If you don't do this the seat will be too high and too far to the outside and the doors won't close. I just flattened it some with a hammer to give enough clearance for the seat to be in the right position.

The seat heaters are pretty straight forward but I haven't wired them yet. Should just need power and ground and switch. I have heard that these seat heaters aren't the most reliable but I guess I'll find out.

Same thing for the power recline. Just had to find the right wires in the VW plug (red/greystripe and brown in the large black plug) and make a new connection to the Toyota power seat wires.

What year Jetta?

 

[hamishpotter]

Installed a Tatton DC front shaft. Thing is solid, a bit narrower than OEM but thicker-walled.

Learned benefit of *tapered* 14mm impact sockets for this job. If anyone has insight into how (what tool) to properly torque the DC end of a shaft I'd love to know, I fashioned an extended crescent wrench tool but am looking for other ideas, there is very little room in there..

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

God..... I envy how you can just jump in the cruiser, and run out for a quick overnight trip! Anywhere around me (Coastal Carolina) requires a 4-5 hour drive, one way, and not nearly the scenery you have! ....... I should of went west!! Lol

One loses sight on how lucky one is, thanks for the reminder. Only 23 miles to my camp site on the hill from my house in the city.

 

[RFB]

Wasn't terrible.


I paid $150 for both seats. Had steel on hand to build the brackets.

I posted this in my build thread and there are a few more photos, but the brackets are two simple "bars". One across the front and one for the rear. I used 1" square tube and some 3/16" plate for the tabs that bolt it to the seat rails. This gives somewhere to weld on the mounting feet in the right locations.

You MUST remove the rear heater under the passenger seat. You'll have a hole in the floor where the heater lines were that you'll need to cover and you might want to find a piece of carpet to fill the hole where the factory carpet didn't cover. With the rear heater removed you might choose to complete remove the rear heater lines, but this is a PITA. I just used a piece of heater hose to bypass (connect) the two lines under the floor since those are now open after you removed the heater.

Also, because the rails on the VW seats are much wider than the Cruiser ones you need to notch or flatten the raised rib in the floorboard (where it starts to go vertical over the trans tunnel where the front of the seat bolts to the floor). If you don't do this the seat will be too high and too far to the outside and the doors won't close. I just flattened it some with a hammer to give enough clearance for the seat to be in the right position.

The seat heaters are pretty straight forward but I haven't wired them yet. Should just need power and ground and switch. I have heard that these seat heaters aren't the most reliable but I guess I'll find out.

Same thing for the power recline. Just had to find the right wires in the VW plug (red/greystripe and brown in the large black plug) and make a new connection to the Toyota power seat wires.

Those a sweet seats, I ordered corbeaus the day b4 you posted up.

 

[Dubbinchris]

Installing a quick set of cheap sacrificial pads until there is time to do it properly.

 

[Marine7]

One loses sight on how lucky one is, thanks for the reminder. Only 23 miles to my camp site on the hill from my house in the city.

 

[woodsman 44]

Climb to the top of Crusaders Hill tested the ARB Locks enjoyed the sea

Desert Dino video not working....check the settings broseph

 

[LS1FJ40]

Well, swung for the fences and struck out. No 40s going home with me. Such is life.

Long story short it worked out for the best. I actually know the guy that owns them all. Maybe in the future. Plus what I really want is a patinad 40 that runs. I sure AF don’t want a fiberglass tub...

 

[haulin auss]

Rigged up a cheap spare tire mount for my maxtrax out of various rubber bungees and bent s-hooks

 

[Bludozer]

One loses sight on how lucky one is, thanks for the reminder. Only 23 miles to my camp site on the hill from my house in the city.

I refuse to like this incredibly likeable post because of how jelly it made me.