What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (59 Viewers)

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Tracked down a slow leak and found out it's from the speedo sensor. (I think)

Does this have an o-ring inside that I can replace?

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Thanks.
 
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Made up some rear antenna/light tab mounts.

They are in paint now and will post pics tomorrow. I will have these in stock in the next 2-3 weeks along with Rigid Dually or aftermarket LEDs.

Also, made up a "Safe Jack" style topper for the OEM bottle jack. These are tube section cut for optimal axle to jack support contact. As most know... any slop or play on a jack surface with a 5-8000# rig = disaster due to momentum forces. I've made a ton of these for the Rover and Jeep guys so might as well extend to the Cruiser crowd.


J
 
Tracked down a slow leak and found out it's from the speedo sensor. (I think)

Does this have an o-ring inside that I can replace?

Thanks.
There is an o-ring on the outer portion of the speed sensor and then an internal seal that rides on the speedo gear that needs to be replaced as well. The inner seal can be pulled out with a pick and reinstalled using a deep socket. Please note the direction of the inner seal before you remove it.
 
Getting quite efficient at pulling the transfer case. I'd much rather NOT have had to pull it.. but whatever. Gotta tear down the 6L80.. not many pics of that, very oily hands.. but found the cause of the 3rd gear slip. the 3/5/rev clutch had some slightly burnt steels.

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Getting quite efficient at pulling the transfer case. I'd much rather NOT have had to pull it.. but whatever. Gotta tear down the 6L80.. not many pics of that, very oily hands.. but found the cause of the 3rd gear slip. the 3/5/rev clutch had some slightly burnt steels.

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Does it shift rough from 2nd to 3rd, or sometimes the engine revs up a few hundred RPMs?
 
Does it shift rough from 2nd to 3rd, or sometimes the engine revs up a few hundred RPMs?

It did the light throttle 2-3 flare that is common with 6L80s.. only mine didn't when cold and did when warm.. this is opposite of most others. No flare at all above 40%ish throttle. At first I figured it may be caused by the MAF calibration being so far off, but I dialed that in pretty well during the most recent trip and the shifting weirdness persisted. Then on my way up a steep gravel road in third gear it bounced off the rev limiter all of a sudden. Did that a couple times after as well. Fortunately it was acting ok in all of the other gears, but knowing third gear involves at least two clutches in the transmission, and both of them impact other gears, I babied it along to make sure it got home.

Now knowing it was the 3/5 clutch I'm REALLY glad it got home. On the freeway it gets into 6th quickly but it doesn't take much throttle to downshift to 5th for hills. I didn't notice problems, however. Was even logging "transmission slip" in HPTuners to keep an eye on things and didn't notice anything other than third gear.
 
It's an inherent problem with all the ZF derived transmissions.
I read somewhere the solenoids go bad, mostly due to too much heat.

It can be reset, but the problem will quickly come back.


Mine is a ZF and it does it when the engine is still cold, but under heavy acceleration it's not there.
Even when the engine is warm up it can do it under very light acceleration. The slippage is only there when cold (sudden RPM surge).
 
It did the light throttle 2-3 flare that is common with 6L80s.. only mine didn't when cold and did when warm.. this is opposite of most others. No flare at all above 40%ish throttle. At first I figured it may be caused by the MAF calibration being so far off, but I dialed that in pretty well during the most recent trip and the shifting weirdness persisted. Then on my way up a steep gravel road in third gear it bounced off the rev limiter all of a sudden. Did that a couple times after as well. Fortunately it was acting ok in all of the other gears, but knowing third gear involves at least two clutches in the transmission, and both of them impact other gears, I babied it along to make sure it got home.

Now knowing it was the 3/5 clutch I'm REALLY glad it got home. On the freeway it gets into 6th quickly but it doesn't take much throttle to downshift to 5th for hills. I didn't notice problems, however. Was even logging "transmission slip" in HPTuners to keep an eye on things and didn't notice anything other than third gear.


Here's the article, but it is on Ford's 6-spd tranny, which is the same as the GM and ZF counterparts.

Potential Problems To Look Out For With The 6R80 Transmission
 
I'll check the resistance of the solenoids while I have it apart, but this is the first I've heard of it being caused by a fault in that area. And I spent a solid two weeks reading about it when I got the truck on the road and the problem popped up.

Either way, thanks for the info.
 
Drove 700 miles today...
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Gotta get your yoga in...
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Can we get back on topic now?

Here.
Debate if this Chevy took an appropriate line or not.
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I'm thinking that's a nice set of lockers.
 
I'll check the resistance of the solenoids while I have it apart, but this is the first I've heard of it being caused by a fault in that area. And I spent a solid two weeks reading about it when I got the truck on the road and the problem popped up.

Either way, thanks for the info.

Also try to reset the computer's values, since it is the adaptive type, it learns the shift patterns and it will still behave abnormally even after to repair the mechanical aspect of the problem.
 
Ok, so this was NOT what I did with my Cruiser, but what my wife did... she brought it home on Saturday from Bremerton, WA. It has been the DD for our youngest son through his tenure in the Army and is now home to be, well, fixed back up. It will stay home now in the garage until I can do a rebuild on the engine, rebuild the first and second rows of seats, and possibly "refresh" the paint with a new OEM paint job. In the meantime, I am doing small repair jobs like replacement of the passenger mirror, replacement of hood struts, cleaning, etc.
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Also try to reset the computer's values, since it is the adaptive type, it learns the shift patterns and it will still behave abnormally even after to repair the mechanical aspect of the problem.

A "fast learn" is required after work this significant anyway.. and in that process all of the adaptive values get adjusted. That was actually one of the first things I tried when I noticed the problem but it didn't make much of a difference once the TCM had gone back though it's learning procedure.

After a lot of reading I see very little in the way of definitive info on how to fix the problem on a 6L80. Hoping my worn clutches contribute, and addressing that will fix the flare.
 
A "fast learn" is required after work this significant anyway.. and in that process all of the adaptive values get adjusted. That was actually one of the first things I tried when I noticed the problem but it didn't make much of a difference once the TCM had gone back though it's learning procedure.

After a lot of reading I see very little in the way of definitive info on how to fix the problem on a 6L80. Hoping my worn clutches contribute, and addressing that will fix the flare.


A little more info to consider since you got everything on the work bench now.
It is regarding the ZF tranny, but in the end it is the same thing.




"AND EVERYTHING IS RELATED TO VALVE BODY PRESSURE LOSS DUE TO SOLENOIDS OR ACTUAL VALVE BODY SEALING GASKETS LEAKING INSIDE, BUT BETTER DO BOTH. DRIVING WITH LEAKING VALVE BODY WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OUT ACTUAL TRANSMISSION HARDWARE.
BEST ADVICE FOR YOU: SINCE 99% issues with this trannies are related to valve body fluid pressure loss, I strongly recommend new (re manufactured) valve body from ZF (expensive 1600$), (you can find some companies offer this rebuild, but they charge almost new VB price, or rebuild it yourself with NEW SOLENOIDS PACK (300-400$) and SONNAX zip kit (150$). If after you rebuilt or replaced valve body and RESET ADAPTATIONS USING BMW SOFTWARE INPA OR ISTA IS A MUST, OR YOU WON’T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE AFTER REBUILT, BECAUSE TCM KNOWS VALVE BODY PRESSURE VALUES AND THEY MUST BE RESET. IF AFTER REBUILT, it’s not shifting well, it means YOU WAITED TOO LONG WITH VALVE BODY REBUILT AND DESTROYED transmission hardware (bushings or actual clutches failed) and you need to rebuild it, but like i said main problem STARTS at valve body and then if not fixed in time you get worn out transmission. All those jolts, bumps or harsh shifts cause premature wear and tear on your tranny. Rule of the thumb is not to drive it if it jerks,or shifts wrong.

replacing just solenoids without rebuilding valve body, where accumulators/pistons always go bad after 60-70k, will not get you perfect results, but might improve shifting quality."
 
Finally all caught up on this thread! Work has been kicking my ass, every weekend it's something. Either I need to come in to the office or work from home.

Mother's Day I was driving to the Metallica concert with a cruiser full of tailgating gear and friends. As we're coasting along in traffic on the NJTP going about 30 MPH, the cruiser begins to violently shake back and forth and the tires scrub across the pavement. I muscle it off to the shoulder thinking something broke, and bad too. A quick walk around ruled out blown tire, so I got under the front to take a look at what might be the cause. Sure enough, there's the track (lateral?) bar hanging down.

No problem! I can "trail fix" this and be back rolling. Unfortunately I couldn't get the bar back into the frame mount and didn't have any pry bar or large screwdriver :bang:. Tried a ratchet strap but that didn't do it either. Tried to jack it up but the OEM jack just couldn't cut it. So I had to tow it. Friend from HS rode with me in the cab of the tow truck and the 3 dudes got to sit in my cruiser on the flatbed.

Needless to say, this weekend I'll be replacing the bushings in the bar and the bolts. This will then snowball into the overhaul of all the rubber underneath as most is cracked and or original.

Oh and yes, I need to do a full knuckle job but that will have to wait for now. (Sadly the kit is sitting on a shelf waiting to get installed, just need time)
 
Finally all caught up on this thread! Work has been kicking my ass, every weekend it's something. Either I need to come in to the office or work from home.

Mother's Day I was driving to the Metallica concert with a cruiser full of tailgating gear and friends. As we're coasting along in traffic on the NJTP going about 30 MPH, the cruiser begins to violently shake back and forth and the tires scrub across the pavement. I muscle it off to the shoulder thinking something broke, and bad too. A quick walk around ruled out blown tire, so I got under the front to take a look at what might be the cause. Sure enough, there's the track (lateral?) bar hanging down.

No problem! I can "trail fix" this and be back rolling. Unfortunately I couldn't get the bar back into the frame mount and didn't have any pry bar or large screwdriver :bang:. Tried a ratchet strap but that didn't do it either. Tried to jack it up but the OEM jack just couldn't cut it. So I had to tow it. Friend from HS rode with me in the cab of the tow truck and the 3 dudes got to sit in my cruiser on the flatbed.

Needless to say, this weekend I'll be replacing the bushings in the bar and the bolts. This will then snowball into the overhaul of all the rubber underneath as most is cracked and or original.

Oh and yes, I need to do a full knuckle job but that will have to wait for now. (Sadly the kit is sitting on a shelf waiting to get installed, just need time)
That's sketchy! I had my trackbar come loose about a year ago. It didn't drop out completely like yours but the steering was feeling loose. When I checked it the nut on the trackbar was hanging on my 2 threads. Glad you didn't have an accident! The torque spec on that bolt is insanely high (can't remember the spec off the top of my head) but crank it down TIGHT!
 

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