What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (58 Viewers)

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Must be an easy place for a LC. Always looks like your on a golf course.
Well I've never golfed before, but it is pretty easy livin out here!
 
Well I've never golfed before, but it is pretty easy livin out here!

You'll have to post up some inland wheeling photos. I am curious to see what the interior of Oahu looks like. I have been all the way around the island but never to the interior.
 
Finally got round to fitting some cheap insurance. Figured after spending so much money on the performance stuff and whatever that having a water separator and finer filtration than factory would be worth the time and money. As they say, saves you once, paid for itself 10 times over. Made up a bracket to sit it next to the factory filter housing so it can strain the biggest lumps out before the 2 micron gets the rest of it. Amazingly the stealership had the chrome strip I damaged on Sunday hiding out the back, and for less than I expected :beer: so I'll chuck that on soon :) Also have not cleaned the mud off yet :p
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Got my mudflaps mounted. CHP are pretty strict, and the tires stick out a bit past their liking. Wanted these forever as my last name is on them, and im probably going to cut them down a bit, but at least it has a little bit of "pkease dont harrass me officer!"
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Got my mudflaps mounted. CHP are pretty strict, and the tires stick out a bit past their liking. Wanted these forever as my last name is on them, and im probably going to cut them down a bit, but at least it has a little bit of "pkease dont harrass me officer!"View attachment 1225466
We aren't allowed any poke, and flaps have to be a maximum of 300mm from the ground :bang:
 
Changed engine oil and filter (Shell Rimula RX4 15W40 and some Morey's Oil Stabilizer for good measure, Sakura Filter) air filter (Wix) and fuel filter (Sakura too)

Also, attacked the airbox lid with a hammer to try and make it flow a bit better, I hope I didn't make it seal poorly.

Lastly, drove her to the beach, then washed her afterwards.
View attachment 1224015

View attachment 1224016
If at first you don't succeed, you need a bigger hammer :D
 
Got my mudflaps mounted. CHP are pretty strict, and the tires stick out a bit past their liking. Wanted these forever as my last name is on them, and im probably going to cut them down a bit, but at least it has a little bit of "pkease dont harrass me officer!"View attachment 1225466

McNeilus makes concrete mixers and dump truck bodies. Ironic and funny on an LC, if you ask me.
 
If at first you don't succeed, you need a bigger hammer :D

Yeah, I don't want to force it, I better get a bigger Knockometer I guess.
 
Got my mudflaps mounted. CHP are pretty strict, and the tires stick out a bit past their liking. Wanted these forever as my last name is on them, and im probably going to cut them down a bit, but at least it has a little bit of "pkease dont harrass me officer!"View attachment 1225466


You had me at Bears sticker!

I never really post in this thread but check it every day. Great inspiration in just about every post!
 
This weekend I tackled a project I have been thinking about for over a year. I was inspired by the cover king seat covers with MOLLE webbing, but didnt like the idea of sitting on 1000d cordura, not to mention the expense. I have had previous experience sewing custom MOLLE gear for "running and gunning", so I thought I would put it to use here. My design is pretty straight forward, with no modification to the existing seat back panel. The panel just slides into the MOLLE bag which has cutouts for the steel clips on the back, and a velcro closure which keeps everything tight and secure. Then the original screws attach the top with new screw cap covers in matching color. Im very happy with the functionality, modular flexibility, and look. I used Tan499 (army designation, its a lighter tan than coyote brown) which matches the oak interior quite well (even better in real life than pics) and there are lots of mfrs. out there making MOLLE pouches in that color. Ive got my BuckMaster, Leatherman, spare mags, flashlight, spare batts., first aid kit and some other goodies on threre with room to spare.

Love it, form following function is a beautiful thing on a cruiser!
 
Continued to chase after my e-brake issue (not holding on an incline.) I'm up to 8+ hours at this point, first I followed the FSM carefully with the adjustment procedure, that did nothing for me (maybe made it worse?) Backing the star assembly off 8 turns from contact seems like WAY too much?

Last night I did a complete R&R of the rear assemblies. Tear-down, clean, lube and reassemble. Then I followed Raventai's steps (post #23 here: Parking/Emergency Brake Adjustment) and that got me a lot closer, but still not holding without pulling the handle as hard as I can until it maxes out. I think I'm losing the adjustment at the handle, so thats next.

Also flushed ALL of the brake fluid from the cruiser. I should have done it when I bought the truck but didnt. Shame on me. The junk I pulled out was black. Not dark, not dirty, but BLACK, as in it resembled India Ink; I've never seen anything like it. The truck still braked just fine, but it was making me uncomfortable every time I saw it. The front right (p-side) caliper was so gunked up I couldnt get it clear with my one-man vacuum bleeder, I had to have my wife pump the brakes for me. All told I went through 3 qts of DOT3. Glad that stuff's cheap.
 
Rust will kill them quickly there. The salt air, or the "vog" where my brother lives on the Puna coast...

You can literally watch them rust away.
Depends where you stay, as Puna on the Big Island compared to where I live on the westside of Oahu is like comparing apples to oranges. Puna coast gets like 160 inches of rain a year with constant onshore salty trade winds....so yeah, rust is a big issue. Where we average 18 inches of rain a year with prevailing offshore winds...so hopefully my 2 nearly rust free Land Cruisers will stay that way! This climatology lesson was sponsored by Wikipedia.
 
Continued to chase after my e-brake issue (not holding on an incline.) I'm up to 8+ hours at this point, first I followed the FSM carefully with the adjustment procedure, that did nothing for me (maybe made it worse?) Backing the star assembly off 8 turns from contact seems like WAY too much?

Last night I did a complete R&R of the rear assemblies. Tear-down, clean, lube and reassemble. Then I followed Raventai's steps (post #23 here: Parking/Emergency Brake Adjustment) and that got me a lot closer, but still not holding without pulling the handle as hard as I can until it maxes out. I think I'm losing the adjustment at the handle, so thats next.

Is your 80 lifted? Rear hub seals OK or any sign of gear oil getting onto the parking brake shoes? Lift can get the parking brake cable housing out of alignment, gear oil contaminated shoes will obviously reduce friction and holding power.

Also brake drums with some wear and a lip on the inside make the factory adjustment procedure a little more interesting, as you have to back the star adjuster pretty far out to clear the lip when removing/installing the drum/disk, then tighten it much more than if the drum had no lip.

I need to adjust mine soon and plan on using an angle grinder and soft disk to carefully remove said lip.
 
Continued to chase after my e-brake issue (not holding on an incline.) I'm up to 8+ hours at this point, first I followed the FSM carefully with the adjustment procedure, that did nothing for me (maybe made it worse?) Backing the star assembly off 8 turns from contact seems like WAY too much?

Last night I did a complete R&R of the rear assemblies. Tear-down, clean, lube and reassemble. Then I followed Raventai's steps (post #23 here: Parking/Emergency Brake Adjustment) and that got me a lot closer, but still not holding without pulling the handle as hard as I can until it maxes out. I think I'm losing the adjustment at the handle, so thats next.

Also flushed ALL of the brake fluid from the cruiser. I should have done it when I bought the truck but didnt. Shame on me. The junk I pulled out was black. Not dark, not dirty, but BLACK, as in it resembled India Ink; I've never seen anything like it. The truck still braked just fine, but it was making me uncomfortable every time I saw it. The front right (p-side) caliper was so gunked up I couldnt get it clear with my one-man vacuum bleeder, I had to have my wife pump the brakes for me. All told I went through 3 qts of DOT3. Glad that stuff's cheap.

Backing off 8 turns is definitely too much. Maybe 8 clicks? @RavenTai has some good info in that post, very comprehensive. Basically, the adjustment at the shoe needs to be pretty tight, almost dragging, then everything else should fall in line.
 
This weekend I tackled a project I have been thinking about for over a year. I was inspired by the cover king seat covers with MOLLE webbing, but didnt like the idea of sitting on 1000d cordura, not to mention the expense. I have had previous experience sewing custom MOLLE gear for "running and gunning", so I thought I would put it to use here. My design is pretty straight forward, with no modification to the existing seat back panel. The panel just slides into the MOLLE bag which has cutouts for the steel clips on the back, and a velcro closure which keeps everything tight and secure. Then the original screws attach the top with new screw cap covers in matching color. Im very happy with the functionality, modular flexibility, and look. I used Tan499 (army designation, its a lighter tan than coyote brown) which matches the oak interior quite well (even better in real life than pics) and there are lots of mfrs. out there making MOLLE pouches in that color. Ive got my BuckMaster, Leatherman, spare mags, flashlight, spare batts., first aid kit and some other goodies on threre with room to spare.


I would buy these in a heartbeat if you decide to make and sell them... I call dibs on the first ones!
 

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