What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (42 Viewers)

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What grease is normally used?
FAQ mentions nothing on this topic.

Moly. Go back one page. You will see what I use. It's the Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Valvoline stuff from AutoZone. I'm sure others will chime in as well on this topic. Nothing gets Mud riled up like Oil and Grease preferences...

I prefer to use inexpensive oil and grease and change them more often. Rather than expensive stuff and push the time or miles. Plus, if you cross any water it will get in there anyway...
 
You could always suck the brake fluid out of the reservoir, refill with clean and use it for awhile; then repeat until it looks clean. It took me 3 times doing that to get fairly clean looking fluid.

I learned that trick from Tools R Us and inkpot.

This is a great idea. I will do this tomorrow. I don't really want to deal with bleeding my brakes. Got enough s*** to do. Brake fluid is cheap.
 
Nope. Since you take it out through the top, you don't introduce air. It will never get it "perfectly" clean, but it doesn't need to be perfect.

Don't tell @NLXTACY this!
 
Changed oil for the first time as new owner, (that oil filter location sucks) checked all the fluids, installed LED headlights, did the Zip Tie mod to both mirrors.

Use tin foil under the filter and create a path for the oil to flow. Way less messy.
 
So, I drank come Grappa for courage and re-engaged with that f-ing door project. I figured it works for the mechanics at Ferrari, so it should work for me.

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Here is the backwards clockspring. Mounted like that, it won't go down all the way, and will try to break itself against the top of the window. I got it off, but flipping it over and getting it back on the right way is pretty hard. Add to the fact that this part doesn't have the clip that stabilizes the window, it's going back/in the trash.

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The top of the door card that hangs over the window ledge. It is very, very fragile, and getting it weaseled over the ledge can easily damage it.

The wiper itself is also real fragile.

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The tabs are thin, bendy and can be shot through with dissimilar metal corrosion. I straightened them and had to try a couple times to get them all to engage.

I got everything back in place, then had to fish the back quarter gasket over the top of it with a 110 degree dental pick.

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Finished it off by rolling down the window all the way, and then using a large flathead screwdriver to force the now all distorted to hell window swiper back flat, so it would quit interfering with window operation. I was not fully successful, but it goes up and down, "maybe" better than it did before. Still not happy with the end result, provided how much work and frustration this job was.

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Personally, I think this is revenge for our winning WWII.
 
Awesome man! What chains are you running?
Just some Peerless I picked up at Wallyworld. Things like a tractor with them on, unstoppable.
 
Do you not have to bleed them if you do that method?

This is a great idea. I will do this tomorrow. I don't really want to deal with bleeding my brakes. Got enough s*** to do. Brake fluid is cheap.

Nope. Since you take it out through the top, you don't introduce air. It will never get it "perfectly" clean, but it doesn't need to be perfect.

Brake Fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it likes to absorb water. The black fluid is a sign that the fluid has absorbed moisture. This moisture can rust your brake system components from the inside. In addition, when brakes are applied, this moisture will boil and produce a soft brake feel.

Though you are getting a lot of the old fluid out I don't believe this method is mixing new fluid all the way to the caliper pistons. The system is essentially a bucket at one end (Master cylinder reservoir) and a bunch of smaller buckets (caliper pistons) at the end of some long small pipes. The master cylinder pushes and pulls fluid at one end of these hoses which eventually flushes maybe the top half of fluid in the lines. This is why after the first suction/refill/pump pedal the new fluid is dark again. After several suction/refill/pump you have mixed about as much as possible and why the original poster comment about not ever getting it perfect. However, it does significantly reduce the amount of fluid you need to remove through the normal bleeding process.
 
Yep I do this with my brakes and my power steering fluid. I use a turkey baster and suck it out and refill with new. Do it frequently and you will never have terrible black fluid.

You could always suck the brake fluid out of the reservoir, refill with clean and use it for awhile; then repeat until it looks clean. It took me 3 times doing that to get fairly clean looking fluid.

I learned that trick from Tools R Us and inkpot.
 
Brake Fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it likes to absorb water. The black fluid is a sign that the fluid has absorbed moisture. This moisture can rust your brake system components from the inside. In addition, when brakes are applied, this moisture will boil and produce a soft brake feel.

Thanks. I now understand why my 5 year old open bottle of brake fluid should not be used in my car.
It will only be used to clean stuff around the house as it acts as a good solvent.

Did you actually mean hydrophilic instead of hydroscopic?
 
Thanks. I now understand why my 5 year old open bottle of brake fluid should not be used in my car.
It will only be used to clean stuff around the house as it acts as a good solvent.

Did you actually mean hydrophilic instead of hydroscopic?
He meant hygroscopic.
 

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