Seems like there's a lot of movement in the shaft going through the seal. Maybe that's why, at least on mine there was.
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It's the large one. It's a little big for my cfx55, but I don't think the medium was big enough.Blast from the past. This came up on my search for Alu-cab tilting slides. Which size is that? Looks like it’s at the 50/50 mark and still room on the side for wing access.
The seal mount has a fudge factor. I had to re-loosen the bolts, realign, then tighten again. At 1st mine was off center as well.When I installed the new seal, I left the two firewall bolts fairly loose with the thought that it could slide around with the steering shaft as needed. It seemed like with the bolts tightened down, the shaft was off-center from the seal. Seems like that would cause it to fail in no time.
I'm trying to pick up a used one, but it's the XL. L would be perfect for what I'm putting on it, but the extra two inches of width may be a "just deal with it" item at the savings I'll see over new.It's the large one. It's a little big for my cfx55, but I don't think the medium was big enough.
When I installed the new seal, I left the two firewall bolts fairly loose with the thought that it could slide around with the steering shaft as needed. It seemed like with the bolts tightened down, the shaft was off-center from the seal. Seems like that would cause it to fail in no time.
This old post shows a pretty rad solution. I dont care enough to do it though. lolThe seal mount has a fudge factor. I had to re-loosen the bolts, realign, then tighten again. At 1st mine was off center as well.
I recently did the work to fit a bearing unit in conjunction with a new Toyota seal - now it's got both co-existing. So far going good.
Turned out the only bearing units that would work are the type with the two-piece steel 'clamp'. Good thing with that is it allows the bearing to be held in place at a slightly different angle to the seal face cutout of the Toyota factory place that the seal mounts onto and that allows fine-tuning as the steering shaft doesn't come through the seal directly in line perpendicular to the plane of the hole where the seal goes.
This is the bearing unit I finally settled on. A bit pricey but the bearings look to be better quality than the el-cheapo variants of these.
BORGESON S/S STEERING SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING BOR700010 FOR 3/4" STEERING SHAFT | eBay
This is how I mocked it up to work out the right bolt length, how to configure nuts/washers as spacers, etc. before installing everything into the vehicle:
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This is with everything put back as I was checking and re-checking that nothing was fouled or binding and that I had all the fastener configuration right.
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Don't know how it will go long-term but it stops the top end of the middle shaft flapping around and holds it steady where it passes through the Toyota seal piece. I can get a plastic squirty tube from my preferred aerosol grease can (Wurth HHS-2000 at present) to spray the shaft inside the seal piece to keep it lubed up.
Craig.
Thanks for the reminder. I need to replace mine too.
This has got me thinking. Will a suspension lift change the angle of the steering shaft going through the seal?It seemed like with the bolts tightened down, the shaft was off-center from the seal.
It shouldn't since the body and frame are connected and move up together with a suspension list. A bodylift on the other hand? Yeah that would change the angle.This has got me thinking. Will a suspension lift change the angle of the steering shaft going through the seal?
This has got me thinking. Will a suspension lift change the angle of the steering shaft going through the seal?
This is exactly how I sleep in my rig. You might consider picking up a matress that fits just like this at iKea. It is much more comfortable than a blow-up and you don't have to worry about the air escaping.I'm trying to pick up a used one, but it's the XL. L would be perfect for what I'm putting on it, but the extra two inches of width may be a "just deal with it" item at the savings I'll see over new.
The external width as advertised is 23" for a L. Is that overall external width including levers and all (measured from red line below)? Or just the tray/mounting points (blue line)?
I ask because your drawer wings look wider than mine and I wouldn't be able to get 23" to line up in the center and still land on the static surface of the drawers. Keeping it pretty close to the center point is important as I used the other half for sleeping. It looks like it's a tight squeeze if it's measured from blue, but may be a non-starter if it's from red.
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I dunno, the Exped I pictured has been spectacular. Plenty of nights on it and it’ll be tough to find a better alternative. Bonus is I roll it up and stash it away when not in use and traveling with L-track underneath to secure items for the trek. Last piece of the puzzle is a better way to access the beers at the end of the day. Enter tilting fridge slide.This is exactly how I sleep in my rig. You might consider picking up a matress that fits just like this at iKea. It is much more comfortable than a blow-up and you don't have to worry about the air escaping.
That is the downside. the mattress takes up space that you cannot regain without removing it. I use it for hunting in really remote places. I put an ice chest on the other side along with my gun case and hunting clothes.I dunno, the Exped I pictured has been spectacular. Plenty of nights on it and it’ll be tough to find a better alternative. Bonus is I roll it up and stash it away when not in use and traveling with L-track underneath to secure items for the trek. Last piece of the puzzle is a better way to access the beers at the end of the day. Enter tilting fridge slide.
That looks fantastic. If that bolts right on to the existing pintle hitch bolt pattern it should do well.Bolt on tire carrier prototype is complete.
J
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That looks fantastic. If that bolts right on to the existing pintle hitch bolt pattern it should do well.