Tried that, as well as Goo Gone and brake cleaner. The pencil itself is gone but there's still an area where the markings bead water differently, which in Oregon is a frequent occurrence.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (27 Viewers)
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Not a weekend, just going to tear off the driver side birf and to my surprise find this. Can you spot the problem here?
Other than the shoes?
That brake hose has an aneurysm.
That brake hose has an aneurysm.
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Yes, wow that's a lot of rust. Don't know how you put up with thatView attachment 2169530
Not a weekend, just going to tear off the driver side birf and to my surprise find this. Can you spot the problem here?
Other than the shoes?
That brake hose has an aneurysm.
Bingo bongooo
The rotor is rusted yes, rainy season here. But that's all getting replaced along with the birf.
Ok, now THAT is disturbing.
Those Alpine V12 amps weren't terrible back in the day. Might be worth keeping if they still work.
Found the rattle in the right rear corner. There were two amps, an 8" speaker mounted on particle board, t-shirt, house insulation, and a towel. Wiring was a rats nest, not how I'd do it. The left rear corner had a used cracked accessory belt and rusty tool kit. I had not looked behind the panels since I bought it. Hopefully there's nothing else hiding in corners or behind panels. Guess I should really look over everything before I ever cross a boarder.
Also changed out the rear diff gear oil, it was nasty. Honestly don't know when or if the previous owner ever changed the rear diff gear oil.
Only fluids I have left to change/flush are power steering and transmission.
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O I'd put the brake clean down, that's for brake parts not windows. Also any type of overspray will eat away at your clearcoat. Think your still having some grease leftover on the glass/potential for all of the cleaners interaction causing a small film to be on the glass where the letters were.
I'll give you a few tips that should produce some good results for you (starting out less aggressive and slowly stepping it up but it is a bit difficult to scratch glass if your careful):
Start simple, wash the glass with some car wash soap.
Next grab a clay bar and any type of clay lube/quick detail spray (ONR is my personnel choice but those kits you can buy from walmart/parts stores work just aswell). This will help atleast prep the surface to be clean of some embedded contaminants/will help any protection you put on the glass bond better to it and should take off some of the grease/other stuff bonded to the glass.
Next, go for either a polish or compound (compound with more cutting ability but I recommend starting with a polish cause you'd be surprised at the results yet if that doesn't net results, go compound then polish). If you have a dual action polisher with some cutting/polishing pads, this obiviously makes the work quick but can also be done by hand with some microfiber towels. Examples readily available at most auto parts stores/walmart are Meguiars/Griots Garage line of products in order of least to more agressive (Compounds: Megs Ultimate Compound, Griots Complete Compound and Megs M105 being more aggressive. Polish : Megs Scratch X, Griots complete polish, Megs M205). The Mckees glass restorer I used in my previous post does great with the hand polishing pad I mentioned but only for glass, wheras a compound/polish can be used on multiple surfaces (paint, glass, windows and even rims). Don't think you only can do this step once either, if it starts producing results, try a second go, might be just what you need to get all that junk off.
Intermediate step if you feel like it or do this after the previous step, take an all purpose cleaner/degreaser (such a Megs/Optmium Power clean or purple power in the shelf), spray on a microfiber, apply to affected area and then rinse off, don't let it dwell on the surface to dry or it can create this milky/chalky looking residue that will need to be polished off anyways.
Vinegar is also used for hard water spots, maybe an option to try here.
Surprisingly enough, a magic eraser with some window cleaner (not windex, an none ammonia cleaner made for glass, Stoner for example) or the previous mentioned APC sprayed on it and then rubbed on the windshield will produce some good results. Search for Apex detailing tips on cleaning dirty windshield if your curious, plus a lot of detailing folks watch his videos as well, so good tips throughout.
Getting more aggressive, take some #0000 steel wool and compound to rub on the affected area. Anything higher up on the steel wool will scratch the glass, so only #0000. Afterwards, take the MF towel you use to buff the compound away and toss it since it will have tiny fibers of steel that will scratch if used on paint.
Last thing I got will only work if you have a polisher/some previous detailing skill under your belt. Using a dual action polisher or rotary for more experienced folks and a special glass polishing pad/compound, rayon pad by carpro and ceriglass (cerium oxide mixture), this combo is actually capable of polishing scratches out of glass. A DA will take a long work time on the spot, keeping the affected area wet with water to not dry polish the glass. Again, only recommended to be handled with care/skill as if done wrong, will causes scratches in your glass.
Prob more info then you thought but this should solve your issue, hopefully in the early steps. I know I gave a lot of different products that you most likely don't have laying around (Of which I'm not endorsing any particular brand, just examples that are easily available on the shelf and don't require some more specialized detail store/website minus ONR/Mckees/Wolfgang pad), but search around and try to find the best deals. Amazon carries all of the mentioned stuff as well. After you try each step and remove the compound/polish/residue, dry the area (wash/dry if apc or degreaser used), hit the area with some water to see if you have more uniform beading. I didn't mention the easy route of hiring a professional in your area (research is key for this part, if the price sounds cheap then those are not the folks you want. Social media posts can give you a big insight to how they handle a quality job.
Once this junk is removed, apply your favorite wax/sealant/rain-x to it for some good beading to occur. Curious to hear what your results are!
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Spray carburetor cleaner on a rag (not on anything else because it eats paint andelts plastic) then wipe the affected area until the grease residue us gone. Then use Windex multiple times to clean off the carb cleaner.
I have done this to remove the adhesive from window tint. It's a PITA but it works.
Do not get the carb cleaner on anything else but the glass.
I have done this to remove the adhesive from window tint. It's a PITA but it works.
Do not get the carb cleaner on anything else but the glass.
Looks like I have some more options to try 
Mud is amazing.
Typically I 2-bucket wash with ONR and a Nanoskin 'clay' as needed, then a Griot's sealant. Meguiar's 7 on the 60 for the single stage paint. So the very tip of the detailing iceberg. This prickly windshield residue is on our commuter car (electric, to offset the 12 mpg 60 and 80). We tried the Magic Eraser with Invisible Glass but not the clay bar, so I'll give that a shot and follow up with the Mckees if I can find it or the Scratch-X if I can't, since I don't have a DA. I don't think I should break out the Festool on the glass
Mud is amazing.Typically I 2-bucket wash with ONR and a Nanoskin 'clay' as needed, then a Griot's sealant. Meguiar's 7 on the 60 for the single stage paint. So the very tip of the detailing iceberg. This prickly windshield residue is on our commuter car (electric, to offset the 12 mpg 60 and 80). We tried the Magic Eraser with Invisible Glass but not the clay bar, so I'll give that a shot and follow up with the Mckees if I can find it or the Scratch-X if I can't, since I don't have a DA. I don't think I should break out the Festool on the glass
mingles
GOLD Star
Drove 2500 miles (NJ-MS-NJ) over an extended weekend to see family in MS. Last week I had installed new O2 sensors and replaced the fuel filter so the 80 ran great and averaged 16.5-17 mpg .
Then yesterday in Graham, NC, midway on our return trip, the alternator died. I still had some life in the battery so we conserved power and made it off I85 to an O’Reilly Auto Parts store. They didn’t have one in stock but sent a driver to another store and I had a replacement in my hands within 40 minutes. Graciously, they let me swap it out in their parking lot and 2.5 hours later we were back on the road. I have never replaced an alternator on a 1FZ-FE and what a PIA to do on the side of the road
. I ended up removing the batt, batt box, dist cap, and unbolting the PS reservoir and pushing it back to get enough room to get it out. The old one was a genuine Toyota so I kept it to rebuild as a spare.
The best part was my 15 yr old son offering to help. My patience was wearing thin towards the end and I was having difficulty getting the belts back on (new alternator had a larger pulley). My son came over, said "you're doing it all wrong, Dad", and had them both on in two minutes. Maybe there is hope for him yet ... All told, we only lost three hours and were back home to NJ by 1AM.
.Then yesterday in Graham, NC, midway on our return trip, the alternator died. I still had some life in the battery so we conserved power and made it off I85 to an O’Reilly Auto Parts store. They didn’t have one in stock but sent a driver to another store and I had a replacement in my hands within 40 minutes. Graciously, they let me swap it out in their parking lot and 2.5 hours later we were back on the road. I have never replaced an alternator on a 1FZ-FE and what a PIA to do on the side of the road
. I ended up removing the batt, batt box, dist cap, and unbolting the PS reservoir and pushing it back to get enough room to get it out. The old one was a genuine Toyota so I kept it to rebuild as a spare.The best part was my 15 yr old son offering to help. My patience was wearing thin towards the end and I was having difficulty getting the belts back on (new alternator had a larger pulley). My son came over, said "you're doing it all wrong, Dad", and had them both on in two minutes. Maybe there is hope for him yet ...
All told, we only lost three hours and were back home to NJ by 1AM.
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Started the long road to baseline and build. So far the parts I have to order, after one days work is going to be over a $1000. I already have $1500 of parts on hand, but hey, its only money and this is my winter therapy
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - 1993 80, BUILD, another "it has begun" for fjbj40!
Finally started the baseline process. Winter is here and all the ice and salt requires she not go outside! She has 285,000 miles on her and I bought her last March in Stockton Cali. Yesterday I stripped down the front axle. I have the knuckle kit but it turns out both birds require replacement...
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jemsec
Mach lll Club
Like your tool kit.
Plowed snow again. I am already sick of winter and it is just getting started!
We don't have that problem in Texas but we don't get to live at Spirit Lake Idaho either. That is some truly wild country. Can't think of a better place to live for beautiful country and unlimited adventure! I have hiked a lot of the wilderness areas around where you live dating back to the early 1980s as my brother-in-law lives in Helena. I never could find a way to move up there career-wise. Hoping to potentially have a second home near there at some point. Love to spend the cold months in Texas and the hot months up there. Hang in there on the plowing and look forward to the melt-off!
This.is.awesome!
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Nice upgrade. I had done an earlier one a while back. This one throws a lot of light to the sides too. Which is nice.Installed my new backup lights. Now I can see!
White LED Light Bulbs, 1700 Lumens 1156 Replacement
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Ha, Look at the tag on the truck across the street.. I just noticed it...
