What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (47 Viewers)

[Qball]

Not too many times where a 3rd gen will dwarf an 80 but there you go...

Side note - cell phone cameras sure have come a long way. Just picked up the Galaxy S10 and it takes some incredible pictures for a smartphone. This ain't your grandpappy's Motorola Razr anymore.

Nice, good to see you out with the 80 again. Is that silver lake area?

 

[KC masterpiece]

Started painting the 4x4 Labs rear.

 

[KrOswalt]

Realize I need to start a build thread pretty badly. Got rained out at work today, made some progress on stopping some leaks, including a template for the moon roof/ leaking hole of glass. Also, turns out the PO installed a roof rack all on his own, using wood screws and machining screws straight into the roof metal.

 

[BILT4ME]

I greased my driveshafts tonight.
I discovered my DS do not have a center hole in the yoke for grease relief. I have only ever put in about 3-5 pumps every time.

In the last month I have changed EVERY suspension bushings on the truck.
I am STILL feeling a "clunk" after I accelerate away from a stop light. I had always attributed it to bad bushings. Yes, I HAD bad bushings, but I don't any more. I cannot feel a loose U-joint or loose yoke, but it COULD be.

I greased them until I had grease coming out everywhere. Yes, I know i shouldn't do that, but my truck has 287K on it and I THINK they are original u-joints. I did relieve any residual pressure by depressing the ball in the end of the zerk. I also greased them with the drive line unloaded to help it flow.

I DD my LC about 20K per year. I have greased my DS a few times in the last 91k that I've owned the truck, but this time I really went to town because I couldn't.tell that any grease was on the yokes or the u-joints.

I have another trip tomorrow about 150 miles round trip, so we'll see what happens.

Oh, and BTW, 12.47 MPG (311 miles per tank) and I keep getting a P0401 EGR code. I shut it off and keep on trucking using my UltraGauge.

 

[bryson]

I greased my driveshafts tonight.
I discovered my DS do not have a center hole in the yoke for grease relief. I have only ever put in about 3-5 pumps every time.

In the last month I have changed EVERY suspension bushings on the truck.
I am STILL feeling a "clunk" after I accelerate away from a stop light. I had always attributed it to bad bushings. Yes, I HAD bad bushings, but I don't any more. I cannot feel a loose U-joint or loose yoke, but it COULD be.

I greased them until I had grease coming out everywhere. Yes, I know i shouldn't do that, but my truck has 287K on it and I THINK they are original u-joints. I did relieve any residual pressure by depressing the ball in the end of the zerk. I also greased them with the drive line unloaded to help it flow.

I DD my LC about 20K per year. I have greased my DS a few times in the last 91k that I've owned the truck, but this time I really went to town because I couldn't.tell that any grease was on the yokes or the u-joints.

I have another trip tomorrow about 150 miles round trip, so we'll see what happens.

Oh, and BTW, 12.47 MPG (311 miles per tank) and I keep getting a P0401 EGR code. I shut it off and keep on trucking using my UltraGauge.

I'm willing to bet the clunk you feel is due to the driveshaft slip yoke binding/unloading when you stop and start. Pretty common, but not always noticeable. You can verify this as the problem by removing the driveshaft, disassembling the slip yoke, COMPLETELY cleaning both sides of the slip spline, and re-greasing it with the stickiest, nastiest grease you can find. Reassemble and take it for a rip. If this stops your clunk, you know that was the problem. Unfortunately, this is almost always a temporary repair, and your clunk will return. The ideal repair is to replace the driveshaft with new and be very religious/picky with the grease used in the slip yoke.

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm willing to bet the clunk you feel is due to the driveshaft slip yoke binding/unloading when you stop and start. Pretty common, but not always noticeable. You can verify this as the problem by removing the driveshaft, disassembling the slip yoke, COMPLETELY cleaning both sides of the slip spline, and re-greasing it with the stickiest, nastiest grease you can find. Reassemble and take it for a rip. If this stops your clunk, you know that was the problem. Unfortunately, this is almost always a temporary repair, and your clunk will return. The ideal repair is to replace the driveshaft with new and be very religious/picky with the grease used in the slip yoke.

Yep! That's what I'm thinking, so I figured I'd start out by lubing my shaft and checking my nuts to make sure all is or isn't well!

 

[Cruzilla]

You can look into a drive-line for a 200 series as it has a larger diameter slip yoke with more splined surface area. It may be worth swapping out or having a custom shaft built with this, from what I remember reading the drive-lines are the same length so it should be a direct swap, But I am not 100% on the length being the same!

 

[vapilotda]

You can look into a drive-line for a 200 series as it has a larger diameter slip yoke with more splined surface area. It may be worth swapping out or having a custom shaft built with this, from what I remember reading the drive-lines are the same length so it should be a direct swap, But I am not 100% on the length being the same!

Interesting, I'm going to measure my 200 series shaft and report back when I get home from work in a few days!

 

[TankTheLC]

Didn’t have much time but started my hose overhaul project (Replacing every rubber hose underneath the hood). Used the little time I had after work to tackle charcoal canister hoses - they are so stiff they feel like metal lines. Spring clamps were wore out so just went with worm drive. Still have brake booster hose, egr hoses, all vacuum lines, and water bypass hoses to do. I’ll tackle those hoses after the front axle overhaul this weekend.

 

[voodu3]

Realize I need to start a build thread pretty badly. Got rained out at work today, made some progress on stopping some leaks, including a template for the moon roof/ leaking hole of glass. Also, turns out the PO installed a roof rack all on his own, using wood screws and machining screws straight into the roof metal.

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Sunroof delete is on my to do list. What gauge metal are you using to fill the hole and are you gonna add any supports to the interior?

 

[96LandcruiserPJ]

Finished the last of the OME 3 1/2" lift - OME steering stabilizer and caster bushings installed.

 

[inkpot]

Took a small group out north of Fountain Hills to evaluate the damage caused by the Verde Fire a couple of weeks ago. Very interesting, but very depressing. When the rains come there will be massive erosion that will cause huge amounts of trail damage. Great for job security. But wait, we are just unpaid volunteers. We'll fix it anyway!

 

[Fullfathom5]

For the last week, I have been having a soft pedal for the first 2 compressions of the brake pedal and the 3rd is usually rock hard. With the power of the web and asking a few people, I have come to the conclusion that it could be either the master cylinder or the booster or both.

So today in preparation for the worst I removed the ABS and LSPV. As a reference I used: JeepinPete's ABS/LSPV delete great write up by the way @JeepinPete I only took one picture of the whole process and that was of when I had the ABS pump out.

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My routing of the brake lines is not as clean as JeepinPete's neither is my engine bay. But this should give you a good idea of how much more room you should have after deleting the ABS.

The only issue I had with the LSPV was unbolting it from the frame. But I removed the nuts that hold the LSPV to the bracket and got it off that way. There are 4 bolts that hold the bracket on are accessible, 2 are easy to get to the others are a pain in the ass. They are up between the frame and gas tank.

Tomorrow I will bring some brake fluid home and refilling the reservoir and bleeding them with the help of the wife on Tuesday.

I had the same issue with the brake pedal. It ended up being the booster. I never thought to remove the ABS. Looks good!

 

[OffRoadScott]

I had the same issue with the brake pedal. It ended up being the booster. I never thought to remove the ABS. Looks good!

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Thank you. I am actually going to swap in the booster today that I got. How long did it take you to swap them out?

 

[2KCruiser]

Not too many times where a 3rd gen will dwarf an 80 but there you go...

Side note - cell phone cameras sure have come a long way. Just picked up the Galaxy S10 and it takes some incredible pictures for a smartphone. This ain't your grandpappy's Motorola Razr anymore.

Cool looking R/C trucks !

 

[Fullfathom5]

Thank you. I am actually going to swap in the booster today that I got. How long did it take you to swap them out?

Maybe an hour of actual work, 1 hour of wrestling with it in both directions, and 1 hour of staring and cursing at it. It’s a ridiculously tight fit and bumps into intake manifold. With your ABS out of the way though at least you’ll have less to move.

I could do it again in about an hour with a helper and skip the wrestling and cursing. I ended up cheating when it came out and cut the two bolts nearest the fender to angle it right to clear the manifold. They aren’t reused. What held me up on the new one was the bolt holes on the inside near the brake pedal weren’t aligned with the holes on the firewall. I loosened the pedal assembly (1 bolt under the dash, need a swivel) and was able to manipulate it from inside to line up the holes enough to slide it in. This is where an extra set of hands would be nice.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Maybe an hour of actual work, 1 hour of wrestling with it in both directions, and 1 hour of staring and cursing at it. It’s a ridiculously tight fit and bumps into intake manifold. With your ABS out of the way though at least you’ll have less to move.

I could do it again in about an hour with a helper and skip the wrestling and cursing. I ended up cheating when it came out and cut the two bolts nearest the fender to angle it right to clear the manifold. They aren’t reused. What held me up on the new one was the bolt holes on the inside near the brake pedal weren’t aligned with the holes on the firewall. I loosened the pedal assembly (1 bolt under the dash, need a swivel) and was able to manipulate it from inside to line up the holes enough to slide it in. This is where an extra set of hands would be nice.

My booster went it in with a little love. The issue I had was the rod and pedal assembly were off a little but I was able to get them lined up. The spring that holds the pedal up came off from where ever it mounts underneath the dash. But I will save that for tomorrow.

 

[malteserunner]

Pretty rare for this thing to leave me stranded. Getting towed...

 

[scottryana]

Did he dolly the front tires? I always specify a flat bed tow for my 80s.

Pretty rare for this thing to leave me stranded. Getting towed...

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[malteserunner]

Did he dolly the front tires? I always specify a flat bed tow for my 80s.

It's part time, and hubs unlocked.