What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (47 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

All these lug bolts shearing off is making me nervous..

Yes, I realize collectively we've driven many millions of miles without problems.. but geez.

Just completed 8 days, 4 states, 4 national parks, 600+ of dirt, 1920 miles total.

How is your fuel gauge not at least 1/4 down already just getting to 90mph?

IMG_20160514_213022.jpg

Timken. Time for some new ones.

IMG_20160514_212941.jpg

New OE rotors, surprisingly affordable. Also new hub flange studs and cone washers ($38 with discount. Ouch.) Didn't want to sully my brand new locking hubs with old deformed cone washers.




IMG_20160516_212132.jpg

Full knuckle rebuild.. OE birfs without tone rings, new knuckle studs, new Koyo trunnion bearings, used spare knuckles, spindles, and brake calipers I had lying around because they were in better shape..

IMG_20160516_212122.jpg


Money shot. Now I'm all neurotic about installing the wheel without scratching the powdercoating on the hub cap.
 
'Mud lets me upload the images above, then won't let me upload the two following. Same camera, photos taken a couple hours apart.. frustrating.

Either way..

This heavy SOB got a bunch of its guts removed and swapped for better stuff (part-time kit, VC removal). Will have time to install it just before a trip to Zion next month.. gonna do the A442F #1 shift solenoid also while I have the IPOR skid dropped.

x3r9eAa.jpg


And this tool made the infamous VC snapring a piece of cake. I just ground some small flats on the pins. Stanley Proto J395, about $18 on amazon.

JxWvkCh.jpg
 
'Mud lets me upload the images above, then won't let me upload the two following. Same camera, photos taken a couple hours apart.. frustrating.

Either way..

This heavy SOB got a bunch of its guts removed and swapped for better stuff (part-time kit, VC removal). Will have time to install it just before a trip to Zion next month.. gonna do the A442F #1 shift solenoid also while I have the IPOR skid dropped.

x3r9eAa.jpg


And this tool made the infamous VC snapring a piece of cake. I just ground some small flats on the pins. Stanley Proto J395, about $18 on amazon.

JxWvkCh.jpg

Nice work did you upgrade the spindle hub lock nut to Trail Gear?

For most its less cost to buy a new bearing for the part time spool. Unless you have a large bearing puller a new bearing will cost and its ready to go in. Will be nice to do the exchange with the case out.
 
Nice work did you upgrade the spindle hub lock nut to Trail Gear?

No TG lock nuts. Personally I prefer the two sides of the OEM nuts being positively locked together.. the TG part relies solely on the tab fitting in the slot on the spindle to resist backing off. Yes, the rear spindles are like the TG setup, but the lock washer is SUPER thick back there for much more engagement with threads along the slot. TG part didn't seem nearly as thick.. though I haven't had one in hand. Other than that, just been reading about 30ft-lb preload before final torque on the outer nut.. I'll check everything in a couple months.

For most its less cost to buy a new bearing for the part time spool. Unless you have a large bearing puller a new bearing will cost and its ready to go in. Will be nice to do the exchange with the case out.

I bought this thing 10 years ago for pulling bearings off diff pinions and carriers.. has come in handy approx 3 times

IMG_20160516_234514.jpg


And now mud is letting me upload images again.

But yes, if you don't have that $110 splitter you are better off having a new bearing sitting on the shelf for PT kit install.
 
No TG lock nuts. Personally I prefer the two sides of the OEM nuts being positively locked together.. the TG part relies solely on the tab fitting in the slot on the spindle to resist backing off. Yes, the rear spindles are like the TG setup, but the lock washer is SUPER thick back there for much more engagement with threads along the slot. TG part didn't seem nearly as thick.. though I haven't had one in hand. Other than that, just been reading about 30ft-lb preload before final torque on the outer nut.. I'll check everything in a couple months.



I bought this thing 10 years ago for pulling bearings off diff pinions and carriers.. has come in handy approx 3 times

View attachment 1259681

And now mud is letting me upload images again.

But yes, if you don't have that $110 splitter you are better off having a new bearing sitting on the shelf for PT kit install.

Honestly, I can't make up my mind if I like the TG set-up or not...all I know is that it has held my preload while the OEM has loosened significantly (probably somehow due to error on my part). I'll keep running the TG until I find reason not to :meh:

DSC_2497_zpsnn7lhugz.jpg
 
Nice and pink too! Or is that the lighting?

Thread lock?
 
The grease is Redline with Red Moly, but IDK why the end of my axle is pink...both sides are that way.
 
No TG lock nuts. Personally I prefer the two sides of the OEM nuts being positively locked together.. the TG part relies solely on the tab fitting in the slot on the spindle to resist backing off. Yes, the rear spindles are like the TG setup, but the lock washer is SUPER thick back there for much more engagement with threads along the slot. TG part didn't seem nearly as thick.. though I haven't had one in hand. Other than that, just been reading about 30ft-lb preload before final torque on the outer nut.. I'll check everything in a couple months.



I bought this thing 10 years ago for pulling bearings off diff pinions and carriers.. has come in handy approx 3 times

View attachment 1259681

And now mud is letting me upload images again.

But yes, if you don't have that $110 splitter you are better off having a new bearing sitting on the shelf for PT kit install.

Nice to have the correct tools for the job!

FWIW - TG took the idea from off road racing started years ago. It actually a proven better set up but you and many other have gotten by for years successfully without it.
 
I have an idea but you might want to ask Joey! If he doesn't know then no one does!
@NLXTACY

My rig is an April 94, which was a transition month for thicker drive plates...I think it denotes some kind of info to the factory workers (someone else commented that they have the exact markings). Personally, I think my rig was special ordered by Joey and then he backed out of the deal :rolleyes: :flamingo:
 
Honestly, I can't make up my mind if I like the TG set-up or not...all I know is that it has held my preload while the OEM has loosened significantly (probably somehow due to error on my part). I'll keep running the TG until I find reason not to :meh:

DSC_2497_zpsnn7lhugz.jpg


Also a lot less stress on the TG set with the nut threads being the full width of the factory assemble holding in the same direction.
 
My rig is an April 94, which was a transition month for thicker drive plates...I think it denotes some kind of info to the factory workers (someone else commented that they have the exact markings). Personally, I think my rig was special ordered by Joey and then he backed out of the deal :rolleyes: :flamingo:

Both my old and new OE birfs had green ends.. clearly means something in toyota-land

Nice to have the correct tools for the job!

FWIW - TG took the idea from off road racing started years ago. It actually a proven better set up but you and many other have gotten by for years successfully without it.

Also a lot less stress on the TG set with the nut threads being the full width of the factory assemble holding in the same direction.

And yet people don't seem to be shearing off the spindle threads with the stock parts.

I haven't ruled it out.. if this setup loosens with brand new bearings/washer/star/repack and a good spindle with only a miniscule wear-lip.. I'll be looking into the TG parts.

Also yes.. tools. Much like the truck I don't dare think about what I've spent on all this crap over the years.. but I finally feel like I have collected 98% of the stuff needed to deal with anything that might come up. I SERIOUSLY need to get some renter's insurance.
 
One thing to note. After torquing my inner axle nuts to 30 ft-lbs. (I think I might have just gone to 25?), I went ahead and tested it with the fish scale. Still read within the Toyota spec for preload. I will probably buy the TG set for the next time I need to get in there.
 
@Aloha Jen I think someone was mentioned in modeling some Trail Gear parts in a bikini. He said he would if you would and then someone said before you did they wanted to go buy stock in the company because obviously your photos would garner some attention lol. Just boys being boys. Bikini modeling is missed though! Ha

I'm confused, what am I supposed to do? Did some posts get deleted (which seems to happen a lot when I'm mentioned) because I don't know what your referring to??
 
Have been doing a lot of small items on the LC lately.
Got around to replacing the front speakers which were awful. I used the Pioneer TS-G1645R that many other mud members have suggested.
Pretty easy job and not overly challenging, especially since this was my first time doing electrical work of any type. the hardest part was getting the old speakers out of the door due to the glued in gasket.
You can see how destroyed my old speaker was and the perfect fitment of the new one.
IMG_8010.JPG
IMG_8012.JPG
 
I rebuild the front axle; repainted the knuckle housing and hubs, rebuilt calipers as well and put in new rotors. Took forever.

There's a left and a right knuckle housing, which I found out the hard way. A left and right caliper too. I'm 0 for 2 on good guesses.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom