Handsome co-pilot. Very nice 60.
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That’s a 14” drum mold. I make drums from scratch. I used to have an entire set for doing any size drum shell but I sold them to my business partner last year.What is strapped on top? The curved thing.
That’s a 14” drum mold. I make drums from scratch. I used to have an entire set for doing any size drum shell but I sold them to my business partner last year. View attachment 2841960View attachment 2841959View attachment 2841958View attachment 2841957View attachment 2841956
You should definitely have two reverse lights. The harness for the rear lights comes up the driver's side to the rear of the car, and then crosses over to the passenger side just behind your spare tire (if you crawl under the vehicle you can see it). Pull the rear interior trim panel on the driver's side and take a look at the wires leading to the harness connector (located below the washer fluid bag). The wires are very thin and tend to get brittle and break.Before I go chasing down electrical gremlins, are both reverse lights supposed to work or is the passenger side a rear fog light? All my other lights work on the passenger side and I know some Euro cars did the rear fog light.
If you but amber bulbs in them you could have reverse fog lights.Before I go chasing down electrical gremlins, are both reverse lights supposed to work or is the passenger side a rear fog light? All my other lights work on the passenger side and I know some Euro cars did the rear fog light.
That makes sense. I'll have to start tracking down where the break is. Thank you!You should definitely have two reverse lights. The harness for the rear lights comes up the driver's side to the rear of the car, and then crosses over to the passenger side just behind your spare tire (if you crawl under the vehicle you can see it). Pull the rear interior trim panel on the driver's side and take a look at the wires leading to the harness connector (located below the washer fluid bag). The wires are very thin and tend to get brittle and break.
If it got foggy often here I'd be tempted to try it lol.If you but amber bulbs in them you could have reverse fog lights.![]()
Cross member looks neat - was it custom made?Finally finished up my exhaust. Added a heat shield to my Passenger side cat and some fiberglass heat shield for the frame rail wires and fuel lines. All the starter wires and o2 wires etc were loomed in Insultherm high temp loom when i loomed the harness. Still need to addd heat shielding to the Crossover pipe where it crosses under the Trans pan and under my gas tank. Looking at Vibrants Sheethot heat shields. Says they are good for temps up to 1100 deg F.
Also added a new trans pan with a better drain plug. Jurys still out on this one. The sealing surface for the gasket doesnt look as good as the oem pan, but this one actually drains all of the fluid when you pull the plug
Here is the original crossover pipe that didnt really follow the lines of the trans pan very well and shifted over when i mounted everything up.
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Old Crossover pipe
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New Crossover pipe made.
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Here is the new crossover pipe installed.
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Tail section of the exhaust. This was by far the easiest part and went by super quick
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Cross member looks neat - was it custom made?
And how much does the new pan clear the driveshaft by?
Did you resolve the vibration issue? With the new drivetrain your TC would have been pushed back from its original position and you would have shortened/lengthened the drive shafts by some. Could this have caused some of the vibration? Did they require any kind of rebalancing?Now that my 60 can travel at like normal speeds i am noticing a ton of new noises that were once masked by the sound of my super loud 2F with headers. There seems to be a ton of wind noise at the driver and passenger windows. It seems like its coming from the very front of the windows where it comes to a point like above the side view mirrors. I have the window runs replaced and the felts replaced. Does anyone else have this noise? My door seals look to be okay but will replacing these as well remove that noise?
Im also Trying to track down some drivetrain vibration issues now too. The extra power seems to have shown the age of my rear axle. I rebuilt the T case when installing the advance adapter but itseems to be making a high pitched noise that is throttle dependent. Very light throttle at cruise has it whine, and then stops when i let off. Going to go out and remove my driveshaft and see if it does it without a drive shaft. I am hoping the vibrations and noise are coming from my rear axle because i have a fzj80 axle waiting to go in and i can rebuild that one with new bearings and just live with the racket and vibrations until thats installed. Anyone have any similar problems after an LS Swap? Pinion angle and output flange are within 1* of each other so i doubt its driveline angles
I got brand new custom driveshafts built. Turns out my vibration and noise was caused by me not including a spacer in my tcase that was supplied in the kit. The instructions are pretty misleading and basically said not to use it if you have a manual t case. But you definitely need it. The input gear ate up my oil slinger and destroyed my case housing. Got a new housing and reassembled it with the spacer and it seems to be doing fine. Still have some gear whine, but I think it’s just old worn gears, because everything else is assembled correctly. Can’t figure out what the high pitched whine isDid you resolve the vibration issue? With the new drivetrain your TC would have been pushed back from its original position and you would have shortened/lengthened the drive shafts by some. Could this have caused some of the vibration? Did they require any kind of rebalancing?
Funny was just reading elsewhere on mud about that exact same part being missed and causing havoc - glad h you got it sorted!I got brand new custom driveshafts built. Turns out my vibration and noise was caused by me not including a spacer in my tcase that was supplied in the kit. The instructions are pretty misleading and basically said not to use it if you have a manual t case. But you definitely need it. The input gear ate up my oil slinger and destroyed my case housing. Got a new housing and reassembled it with the spacer and it seems to be doing fine. Still have some gear whine, but I think it’s just old worn gears, because everything else is assembled correctly. Can’t figure out what the high pitched whine is
Yeah man, if I ever do this again I’m steering clear of the advance adapter if there’s other options out there hahaFunny was just reading elsewhere on mud about that exact same part being missed and causing havoc - glad h you got it sorted!
Marks here in Australia make another one. Wonder if anyone has the facts on both for a fair comparison.Yeah man, if I ever do this again I’m steering clear of the advance adapter if there’s other options out there haha
M
Marks here in Australia make another one. Wonder if anyone has the facts on both for a fair comparison.