teejnut
SILVER Star
Elka's new to off-road, looks like they're just doing Toyota for now but they've been around for awhile. I've ran them on my street bike about 10 years ago and was pretty happy with it.
What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
- Start date
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Most commonly comparable is Hub to fender (or bottom of rim to fender as hub center-line is less accurately determined), ground to fender (will change with tire change, so ultimately useful to you).
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I haven’t picked it up yet, but this just happened. I asked the guy at Toytec to send me a pic when he was done. I used their tire recommendation (275/70/17) and got a call that the tires were rubbing against the UCA so they put 1.25 spidertrax spacers on em. Not my original plan but it should be fine reading other posts on here.....
Looks great. I'm itching for bigger tires. Anyone know how spacers affect handling? And hubscentric spacers are safe....?!?! I've read mixed things, assuming the dangerous ones are purley a spacer and don't have the hub centric groove?
I ran spacers on my Taco for almost 10yrs with no issues. I have .75 BORA spacers on my GX now. They are hub-centric as well. If you can find the right wheel with the proper BS you don't need spacers. But most cannot find what they want in wheels alone. Spacers properly maintained, are no issue at all.
Thanks. Do spacers make a vehicle more stable, or more squirrelly at freeway speeds?
IMO with the .75 inch up front on mine and 315/70 tires it makes it more stable. My current stance is just outside the average highway wear grooves and it tracks great. But alignment also has a lot to do with how well your vehicle tracks and stability comes more from your swaybar then anything.
I wonder if the thicker kdss sway bar fits on non kdss models adding more "stiffness" in high speed corners if if that is not the intent?
KDSS vs regular swaybar design is very different. Pretty sure you cannot swap those 2.
What is you overall goal? My GX with regular front and rear swaybars, 3 inches of lift, and 315's handles great for a lifted SUV. ITs no sports car of course so I have to know my limits.
The GX has become my daily, replacing my Acura TL, so there is noticable high speed handling differences. I have tricked the rear air bags to add 1.5 inches in the rear and installed a .75 strut spacer up front for a 1.5 front inch lift, so 1.5 inches overall. I have stock tires currently, and before on the freeway it seems like the cornering seemed so much more stable/stiff when the dampening switched was turned all the way to the right ("sport")
This set up has clearly affected the high speed cornering/leaning when before it stayed very flat in the corners, almost weirdly flat. Not anymore. So clearly this small adjustments caused a bigger change than I was anticipating. So my thought was, would adding spacers for a wider track give more stability in cornering? Or not because shock dampening would still stay the same?
I wasn’t aware of this. Did you get a notification?
I would suspect airbag lift is affecting handling. Mine is KDSS so not translatable to yours. I imagine the inch fractional wider track/stance wouldn't affect your handling like you want...
edit With the airbags on high, i notice they feel like the shocks are maxed out and there's less rebound left in them, i would see how this could negatively affect cornering, which is why the height is overridden > 20 mph in the native auto-leveling system...Aftermarket compensates in height by range so a properly lifted rig (as @cosport is indicating below) accounts for the height in the shock travel and spring rate. By modding the system as such, i think you're overriding it's inherent compensation....
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perhaps I'll place wingnuts on the air bag height bracket in the rear so I can adjust by hand if/when wanted or needed?
X2 on this thought. Airbags would definitely be less stable as the height goes up. Mine has been converted to lift coils in the rear and adjustable coilovers up front. Could be why I am feeling good in corners still.
NMBruce
SILVER Star
Oil & filter, Air filter, tire rotation and rear brake pads. Had planned to grease also, but out of grease, so that gets done tomorrow
Most of the posts in this thread are about positive experiences (thankfully), so I figured I'd mix it up and share a mistake:
Got a little too hammer happy driving a CV home today and bunged up the first few threads, even though I used the backwards axle nut trick (clearly not doing it right).
The threads "appeared" fine but the nut would NOT come off (plastic deformation somewhere), so out came the angle grinder and goodbye deformed threads! I figured it was ok since they were past the cotter pin hole, and the nut went back on nicely after reassembly:
So,
Got a little too hammer happy driving a CV home today and bunged up the first few threads, even though I used the backwards axle nut trick (clearly not doing it right).
The threads "appeared" fine but the nut would NOT come off (plastic deformation somewhere), so out came the angle grinder and goodbye deformed threads! I figured it was ok since they were past the cotter pin hole, and the nut went back on nicely after reassembly:
So,
- anyone want to share some more detail on pounding in CVs? This is only my third one but the first two were fine.
- can you think of any reason why this desperate "mod" will cause me problems?
I normally don’t have to pound them in. Usually just line-up the slot, retaining clip, slide it in until it’s seated and then “pop” it in. I grab the outer spline with both hands and quickly shove it straight in if that makes sense....
Can’t see where it’s going to cause a problem. You have good thread purchase and have the cotter pin in place. I believe the torque spec is around 173 lbs for that.
Can’t see where it’s going to cause a problem. You have good thread purchase and have the cotter pin in place. I believe the torque spec is around 173 lbs for that.
I do the same. One pop and it seats
