What did you do to your pig today? (7 Viewers)

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In an off road vehicle that’s used off grid like some of us do here I would run two pumps on the frame or in the tank with a couple Y’s and either manually plug between the two or have a switch on the dash like I had on the angry pig, a single ON/OFF/ON switch is what I used. When one crapps the bed just switch to the other and keep going and deal with the dead one when you get home. Same cost as carrying a spare and way less laying on your back on the road or trail.

Also anything that has a filter or pump mounted down off the frame I install an inline fuel proof ball valve back at the tank..
Well those are two pretty darn good ideas since I took a small gas bath this morning while under the pig.
 
When I did my sniper install I blindly ordered it with the in-tank fuel pump and a new OEM tank. Being a first for me, I was a bit nervous about cutting into the tank and ordered the walbro in line pump if I chickened out. After enough thinking I did use the in-tank and love the way it works. NEVER considered using a second install with a plugged line in case. I think that’s a great idea.

50 yrs ago I carried a 4’ long custom fitted tool box with so many tools and spare parts just in case. Never needed any of them….it was a brand new ‘74 but with a bunch of added engine parts

Holley carb, centrifugal advance distributor, wheels and tires, half cab, air pumps, wrenches, sockets, torque wrench, nuts bolts screws, chain, screwdrivers, hi-lift jack…. The only thing I ever needed once was DUCT TAPE. Didn’t have any
 
Found some inspo from this forum and painted a new coffee cup.

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PP25 prep. Vacuumed the dust out. Cleaned the windows and dash and seats. Packed up 80% into the pig. Then decided to try to get the tailgate window fully operational. Spent the next 4+ hours (when I was supposed to be working) putting in my spare and recently refurbished tailgate mechanism. After three full installs and two removals to fix the arms it now seems to be working! This will make the PP easier at camp and on the trail when you can go through the tailgate rather than the 2nd row door. I also added some heat shield wrap that attaches by Velcro over the fuel pump. Thought since it is so close to the muffler this might help some?? Unless it holds too much heat??? But the muffler heat it reflects must be significantly higher??? Guess we’ll see??
 
I'm sure you all know that if you install a Mosley aluminum radiator you can't use the hand crank to turn the engine anymore. It was news to me. Seems that original radiator bottom pan is shaped to clear the hand crank, Mosley's is not.
So I moved the winch control back from under the hood to the top of the winch. The only reason I went through the trouble of relocating the winch control was so I could continue to use the hand crank. Oh well.
So I put a happy little helper fan down in the corner least serviced by the mechanical fan.
Then I learned a little about wiring. It was painless. A new little fuse box and some relays and lots of wire and I made it so the fan would turn on with the push of a button. Did the same with the rock lights. Hooray. Need to think of two more things to wire...

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So now I've got a nice new generic overflow reservoir where the winch control used to be instead of that stupid long chrome plated tube that never worked worth a darn. Maybe enough room left for a horn and a winch cut-off switch

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Nice work. Cut off for the winch is a good idea. I put one on my 5500 Ram and like having it.
To be fair, I had shortened the power cable because I needed less of it with the controller under the hood, now I need it longer and adding a switch seems the easiest way to do that.
 
So now I've got a nice new generic overflow reservoir where the winch control used to be instead of that stupid long chrome plated tube that never worked worth a darn. Maybe enough room left for a horn and a winch cut-off switch

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I like that radiator! I went to their website and its like 1700$ so they are smoking GOOD drugs but any idea if other model radiators fit?
 
I like that radiator! I went to their website and its like 1700$ so they are smoking GOOD drugs but any idea if other model radiators fit?
Find a radiator shop.
They could probably build a half dozen of them in brass for that price and include the relief for the hand crank.
Oh maybe not 6 but they should be able to make one for less than half of that price...
 
Im definitely smoking drugs but 900 is still a lot. Lol mine works fine but i do like some engine bay flash
The Mosley radiators are actually built by FSR Products FSR Products - FSR Radiators - https://www.fsrproducts.com/ , which is a radiator shop in Tennessee.
If you have an OEM radiator and an actual radiator shop somewhere nearby, like was mentioned somewhere above, you could probably have a shop build an OEM appearing aluminum radiator. But if you do, you will have to post pictures and info and what the savings are (if any).
 

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