What did you do to your pig today?

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Got that winch cutoff switch mounted, inside front passenger fender down out of the way. Chased a coolant drip for a while, tightened everything I could reach, slowed it down then gave up. It's really slow and slowing down.
Put the grill back on, not the valance though. I don't want to block the bottom inch or two of radiator.

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Chinee 😮😳😲😮. God for 2 weeks 😘🤔🤣🤣🤣🤣
youd be surprised. like. fuel pressure regulators for all big HP stuff is all just laser engraved bulk s***e from alibaba. turbos are the same. most things are made elsewhere, imported, "assembled" and sold as US made

Ive run chinese radiators in tons of stuff. the one time I bought a US made one was for my sequoia and the welds on it were horrid. must have been made during union break on friday - just looked it up. liland global. ill find the pictures i saved eventually. i document everything lol-
 
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With as much twisting as a 4x4 frame does, something needs to flex or something will break.

Thats why motor mounts are rubber.

My moneys on the wall of the block...
Eh the cast aluminum bracket first, and ive got a few of those. But I fabbed up this whole solid solid mount. Then i realized my output shaft angle was GARBAGE. So i removed the drivers side exhaust.manifold and dropped it down a couple inches and have to start over. But now the stock mounts will work, just have to move them
 
the one time I bought a US made one was for my sequoia and the welds on it were horrid.
The welds on this radiator look pretty good to me (I'm no expert). It bolted RIGHT in, hoses lined up perfectly. It is so rare that one can find a 55 specific substantial part of such high quality that I had to have it and don't mind paying more than Chinese copy would cost. I had resigned myself, years ago, to having to re-core my original radiator, which I've done 3 times now because there were no new replacements. I was unaware of the Mosley radiator until I saw a link on 'Mud, I jumped on it. One thing that the Pig has taught me: parts are not going to get any cheaper or easier to get. And now I've got a spare radiator, I'll get it rodded and put it away for later. I've pressure tested it twice, no leaks. Drained the garden hose water and refilled with green coolant. Made my own burping funnel...

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Also anything that has a filter or pump mounted down off the frame I install an inline fuel proof ball valve back at the tank..
I tried running a quarter turn valve in line w/ my filter and pump, and then I learned the hard way that is it was NOT fuel proof!

Do you have a favorite product? I always like seeing where you buy your stuff...
 
I've used the the generic stainless ball valves that have PTFE seals with success and I've also used the 6-AN fuel proof aluminum valves Summit racing sells.
Something like this?

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Something like this?
I had those exact ones on my Angry Pig when a bought it and they leaked.

Regular ball valves work well like this one Summit sells, obviously you can find them cheaper on Amazon. Just read the reviews to confirm the Chinese "NPT" threads are kind of like our USA NPT threads and it has PTFE seals.

I ordered this one for a project and it worked well if you need the 6-AN built in to the valve

 
Welp,
I schnarffed Corn Flakes yesterday on account of the idea of paying $175 for a ball valve. Turns out you’re not going to get much better than that for a valve that’s constructed to handle gasoline, and runs true to the ID of your fuel line.
McMaster-Carr has a large selection of gasoline compatible ball valves, and the equivalent of the one JMack linked above is $226.19, and has 8AN fittings.
The cheaper ones neck down to a 1/4” ID until you hit 3/4” NPT, then it gets bigger.

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