OMG I have destroyed several LC's at Cherimont in the 90's . Once it starts raining it gets so slippery there . Good to see that it is still open to Offroad eventsWe headed for some mud..
My BFG ATs performed suprisingly well in that clay. But I found the limits of clearance of my 31s; and the limit of hill climbing abilities of my 3B anyways.
IH8MUD
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What did you do on your 70 series today? (28 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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grubscrew
SILVER Star
Love the centre ones bull bar!We headed for some mud..
My BFG ATs performed suprisingly well in that clay. But I found the limits of clearance of my 31s; and the limit of hill climbing abilities of my 3B anyways.
IH8MUD
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grubscrew
SILVER Star
Restoration under way…..cannot believe you can take these apart ( HZJ75) with just 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and jic cross head screw driver. Seats out, dash nearly out, interesting .
I’m trying to fall in love with the brown interior, but not there quite yet
I’m trying to fall in love with the brown interior, but not there quite yet
Change it over to grey , the brown reminds me of the aftermath from eating something wrongRestoration under way…..cannot believe you can take these apart ( HZJ75) with just 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and jic cross head screw driver. Seats out, dash nearly out, interesting .
I’m trying to fall in love with the brown interior, but not there quite yet
Open again. I heard it was closed for some time. Yes, it is a wild terrain. Actually not suitable for almost stock vehicles like mine.
The others have rear lockers, mine hasn't. Also my wheels are too small for the deep ruts. It took 5min for me to get high centered on the diffs.
Most tracks are like hollow ways, so there is no option to pick a line (which I actually consider the fun in offroading), but high risk to lean to the walls and suffer body damage. Luckily it hadn't rained too much, so the puddles were mostly no problem. But when it rains, those revines apparently quickly turn into swimmingpools. It was fun, but probably a one time event. (Btw: access fee is 65€).
Cheers Ralf
grubscrew
SILVER Star
Wiring diagram assistance please: HZJ75, 1 HZ ( diesel 1990 4.2) looking for a wiring diagram if any one can point me in the right direction. I do have the proper Toyota workshop manual, but it’s from August 1992…..and too many changes were made to cross reference unfortunately.
I actually did the worst thing ever to my 70 series troopy camper, I listed it for sale 
For Sale - Netherlands: 1996 / Toyota Land Cruiser / HZJ75 Troopy / 187,000 miles / LHD / roof top conversion - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/netherlands-1996-toyota-land-cruiser-hzj75-troopy-187-000-miles-lhd-roof-top-conversion.1348158/
For Sale - Netherlands: 1996 / Toyota Land Cruiser / HZJ75 Troopy / 187,000 miles / LHD / roof top conversion - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/netherlands-1996-toyota-land-cruiser-hzj75-troopy-187-000-miles-lhd-roof-top-conversion.1348158/
grubscrew
SILVER Star
Steering wheel remove….so the spider joint is worn, so a 16x 40 new joint seems to be the direct replacement.
Anyone driven out the shaft on these from the tube housing? I don’t want to welt it too hard, but maybe that’s what is required .
Anyone driven out the shaft on these from the tube housing? I don’t want to welt it too hard, but maybe that’s what is required .
grubscrew
SILVER Star
Beautiful clean chassis….mine will be like that one day
What are you swapping in?
Since getting my PZJ-75 back from the shop that replaced the transfercase (catastrophic failure) almost 2 months ago; the clutch pedals had a soft feel to it when depressing the clutch pedal along with the clutch engaging much lower on the pedal stroke.
Inspected the clutch master cylinder fluid level and found it about an inch or so low. I added fluid to the reservoir and then inspected the slave cylinder. I found some dampness coming from the rubber boot which indicates the shaft seal is in the beginning stages of leaking. I wiped the boot thoroughly and pumped the clutch pedal several times and the pedal was now a little firmer so I slowly cracked the bleeder and while a little fluid came out; so did several bubbles. I had a friend lend me a hand to properly bleed the slave cylinder with several more tiny burps coming from the bleeder. Added some more fluid and decided that since the fluid weeping from the boot may continue to get worse; so I went on ToyoDIY to find the P/N and Amayama to order a new slave cylinder and flexible line as replacements.
This time I had the parts shipped from the UAE to my address in the US instead of the PI so I don’t get dinged with the ridiculous duties fees I paid previously when I ordered the NEW transfer case almost two months ago.
The new parts will go in my luggage the next time I visit the PI.
Inspected the clutch master cylinder fluid level and found it about an inch or so low. I added fluid to the reservoir and then inspected the slave cylinder. I found some dampness coming from the rubber boot which indicates the shaft seal is in the beginning stages of leaking. I wiped the boot thoroughly and pumped the clutch pedal several times and the pedal was now a little firmer so I slowly cracked the bleeder and while a little fluid came out; so did several bubbles. I had a friend lend me a hand to properly bleed the slave cylinder with several more tiny burps coming from the bleeder. Added some more fluid and decided that since the fluid weeping from the boot may continue to get worse; so I went on ToyoDIY to find the P/N and Amayama to order a new slave cylinder and flexible line as replacements.
This time I had the parts shipped from the UAE to my address in the US instead of the PI so I don’t get dinged with the ridiculous duties fees I paid previously when I ordered the NEW transfer case almost two months ago.
The new parts will go in my luggage the next time I visit the PI.
grubscrew
SILVER Star
Dash out, and the wiring is horrendous 
.
Removing the air con , absolutely caked with 300,000 of Western Australian mud dust. Seized up air con flaps etc.
Tell me, this model ( hzj75 4.2d 1990) does it have toggle switches for diff lock, approximately where your knees would be if sitting in the drivers seat, only there are two identical ( should have taken photos), and I haven’t a clue what they are for….ideally a dash lay out of switches if any one has.
Thanks.
.Removing the air con , absolutely caked with 300,000 of Western Australian mud dust. Seized up air con flaps etc.
Tell me, this model ( hzj75 4.2d 1990) does it have toggle switches for diff lock, approximately where your knees would be if sitting in the drivers seat, only there are two identical ( should have taken photos), and I haven’t a clue what they are for….ideally a dash lay out of switches if any one has.
Thanks.
Dash out, and the wiring is horrendous
Removing the air con , absolutely caked with 300,000 of Western Australian mud dust. Seized up air con flaps etc.
Tell me, this model ( hzj75 4.2d 1990) does it have toggle switches for diff lock, approximately where your knees would be if sitting in the drivers seat, only there are two identical ( should have taken photos), and I haven’t a clue what they are for….ideally a dash lay out of switches if any one has.
Thanks.
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The factory difflock switch is a rotary electrical switch, like an 80 series.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
Working on making the FRP badge more practical for quick removal. Every factory badge I have (6) all have broken pins or seized retaining clips.
I had these made out of solid aloominum.
Still a work in progress as I may paint the font and top 2 horizontal lines in either black or the factory blue/grey that a lot of the FRP tops have the “Landcruiser “ logo coloured. Then polish the face to match the chrome handles and leave the sides of the badge brushed.
I’ve clear 2pac’d the badge for now so it won’t go too grey till I have 10minutes to finish them off.
I have nutserts in the FRP top where the retaining clips were. I’m still deciding on what countersunk head fastener to use. I’ll hopefully find a slotted raised/countersunk head metal thread. Takes no time to undo the badges and reveal the top fixings and no risk of damaging the badge or the paint work behind the badge.
I had these made out of solid aloominum.
Still a work in progress as I may paint the font and top 2 horizontal lines in either black or the factory blue/grey that a lot of the FRP tops have the “Landcruiser “ logo coloured. Then polish the face to match the chrome handles and leave the sides of the badge brushed.
I’ve clear 2pac’d the badge for now so it won’t go too grey till I have 10minutes to finish them off.
I have nutserts in the FRP top where the retaining clips were. I’m still deciding on what countersunk head fastener to use. I’ll hopefully find a slotted raised/countersunk head metal thread. Takes no time to undo the badges and reveal the top fixings and no risk of damaging the badge or the paint work behind the badge.
This remains my all-time favorite interpretation of a mid wheelbase 7x.
I need to find a spare FRP top for mine.
I need to find a spare FRP top for mine.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
Wow. Thanks, that means a lot coming from you
. Hope you noticed I stuck those pesky rear door seals down till I get around to capping them 
I did indeed. It's about damn time.Wow. Thanks, that means a lot coming from you
