@Gun Runner 5 at ODD IRON OFF ROAD: 70 SERIES LAND CRUISERS - https://www.oddiron.com should be able to get you sorted on your 24v bulb needs.
What did you do on your 70 series today? (22 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
24v Bulb part Numbers
Many of the diesels, especially JDMs, run on a 24v electrical system. Sometimes it's easier to find replacement 24v bulbs if you already have the part number in hand. With that thought in mind, post up any part numbers that you use, specifying its application, in this thread. This post...
forum.ih8mud.com
Hello,
Chance's indicators began to act erratically.
I checked for bad grounds, and found a stripped wire. The pervasive legacy of alarm installers. I repaired it, but the problem persisted. The combination switch is fine, and the rest of the wiring was untouched.
The flasher relay turned out to be faulty. It is part 81980-12070, which is discontinued.
Notice that it has four pins and a rubber cap. The pins had a substance that looked, and felt, like bulb grease. There is an adapter to plug the relay into the three-pin socket.
In old age, carbon builds up between the contact plates above the solenoid. As a result, they stick together and interrupt the circuit. A flush with contact cleaner helps a little, but not for long.
The replacement part is 81980-32010. It is shorter. It has three pins, unlike 81980-12070. It plugs right in.
I noticed that the OBD port in the newer model 70 Series is close to the relay block. There is not enough room for the older part to fit. I guess the size change is to make it fit without interfering with the OBD port.
There are two part numbers in this relay. I suppose the lower part number is from Denso, but I may be wrong.
The indicators are now working.
I wonder if there are solid state relays for this application, just like there are solid state voltage regulators for alternators.
Juan
Chance's indicators began to act erratically.
I checked for bad grounds, and found a stripped wire. The pervasive legacy of alarm installers. I repaired it, but the problem persisted. The combination switch is fine, and the rest of the wiring was untouched.
The flasher relay turned out to be faulty. It is part 81980-12070, which is discontinued.
Notice that it has four pins and a rubber cap. The pins had a substance that looked, and felt, like bulb grease. There is an adapter to plug the relay into the three-pin socket.
In old age, carbon builds up between the contact plates above the solenoid. As a result, they stick together and interrupt the circuit. A flush with contact cleaner helps a little, but not for long.
The replacement part is 81980-32010. It is shorter. It has three pins, unlike 81980-12070. It plugs right in.
I noticed that the OBD port in the newer model 70 Series is close to the relay block. There is not enough room for the older part to fit. I guess the size change is to make it fit without interfering with the OBD port.
There are two part numbers in this relay. I suppose the lower part number is from Denso, but I may be wrong.
The indicators are now working.
I wonder if there are solid state relays for this application, just like there are solid state voltage regulators for alternators.
Juan
Trustyrusty
GOLD Star
As I continue to rob parts from a RHD to use in my LHD, I needed the lower front center console piece that works with the left hand parking brake. Dan Deery Toyota was surprisingly able to find me this NOS part, in appropriatly dusty packing, and ship it to me for less than 40 bucks!
jblueridge
SILVER Star
LED Flasher — ODD IRON OFF ROAD: 70 SERIES LAND CRUISERS
The fix for the LED "hyper Flash" problem. Replace your original flasher when changing to LED bulbs in your turn signals. Comes with instructions Available in 12 volt or in 24 volt.
www.oddiron.com
JDM Journeys
Moderator
As usual, you're doing it the right way.
Whereas I used a variable speed cheapy off Amazon to counter my hyper flashing led indicators. I did have to wire a pigtail to reverse the connections but otherwise it worked fine. I do keep the original in my Doug's Tub for when the cheapie fails.
Juan, I replaced mine as well Part number changed. New part number: 8198032010 and this worked for me even if shorter I manage to put it in and problem solved
Last edited:
Hello,
Yes, that is the new/replacement part. It is the one I used. And yes, it plugs right in.
As a confirmation of the electrical test, I tried to plug the faulty relay into a 71 Series. That is how I found out about the change in size, because the old part did not fit there.
I try to test relays on another truck, in order to confirm the multimeter's results. I think it is good practice, and a way to spot/confirm electrical gremlins as well.
Juan
As usual, you're doing it the right way.
Whereas I used a variable speed cheapy off Amazon to counter my hyper flashing led indicators. I did have to wire a pigtail to reverse the connections but otherwise it worked fine. I do keep the original in my Doug's Tub for when the cheapie fails.
Hello,
Thank you for your kind words.
The only incandescent bulbs I keep on my trucks are those of the indicators. My question on the solid-state flasher had to do with using LEDs, as well as long term reliability.
On the other hand, indicators' flashing rate and voltage drop (if any) are a qualitative way to assess the condition of the electrical system, particularly in trucks that use incandescent bulbs like our Cruisers. It is a good starting point for troubleshooting in my book.
Juan
2fpower
SILVER Star
This is the LED type flasher I have used several times in 80 series rigs.
A special package arrived from Japan.
Where did you source it? woww
Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
Nice man, your gunna end up with a pile of 1vd belhousings with no home
Japan4x4 - Talk to Dave
You can also buy it from any Toyota dealership. Got mine in 2 days.
I am rebuilding the one from the LC79 along with the T-case
I was curious
those must be $$$
My FZJ74 2004 FRP
220 KLM
I just shre with you the one of the best FRP on my country I bought last week
220 KLM
I just shre with you the one of the best FRP on my country I bought last week
Radiator replacement day for the 77.
Aluminum jobby formed a small lower seam leak and not trusting that BS on the fresh rebuild.
16400-17080 @ my local dealership showed up in two days undamaged and came with all the stuffs. Shiny! Already have an external trans cooler so the MT version radiator worked a champ for me. Also note that I already had the LandTank orange hub tuned fan clutch. Airflow's been pretty damn restricted for awhile.
So confident that I installed the splash guard originally purchased for the 73. Fits. Used the spacer pucks that were used to space the old AL radiator to provide a gap for the cooler lines. Will upgrade to something stronger eventually.
Aluminum jobby formed a small lower seam leak and not trusting that BS on the fresh rebuild.
16400-17080 @ my local dealership showed up in two days undamaged and came with all the stuffs. Shiny! Already have an external trans cooler so the MT version radiator worked a champ for me. Also note that I already had the LandTank orange hub tuned fan clutch. Airflow's been pretty damn restricted for awhile.
So confident that I installed the splash guard originally purchased for the 73. Fits. Used the spacer pucks that were used to space the old AL radiator to provide a gap for the cooler lines. Will upgrade to something stronger eventually.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Parked next to a fancy decked out Tacoma yesterday. Got a thumbs up from the owner. Five mins later a 100 series (Lexus) pulled up next to me and gave me another.
She must've been proud of herself because this morning she rolled up 285000 kms and after being out in -20°C all day, unplugged, she started smoothly on a single glow.
24 volts for the win!
She must've been proud of herself because this morning she rolled up 285000 kms and after being out in -20°C all day, unplugged, she started smoothly on a single glow.
24 volts for the win!
