What did you do on your 70 series today? (2 Viewers)

[SNLC]

Front and rear bumper builds happening.

Cheers

 

[kgrove]

New old man emu front shackles, springs, and shocks on, courtesy of cruiser outfitters. Ready to put the arb bumper on after I touch up some frame paint. Then gonna do the rear suspension. I'll be selling all these bits I pulled off too. Anyone know how to get the hub lock and 4wd lights to stop blinking? Everything functional including 4wd since the manual hub conversion. The truck computer just doesn't think it's engaged.

Pull the bulbs.

Does the 77 have the same dual 'hub lock' and 'H4' buttons as the KZJ78?

If so and you really want a solid not flashing hub lock indicator light with manual hubs, there's a mod I found somewhere before - I'd link to it if I could remember where I saw it, but I recall it being a video - where you can wire a resistor into the electric hub circuit where the electric hubs used to be. I think I used a 50 ohm resistor (one per wheel)... cut the wires that ran to the back of each electric hub, used the pig tails from the disconnect plug near each wheel in case I ever needed to get back towards stock, soldered in a resistor on each side, then taped everything up to keep it water tight since it's in the engine bay. So now when I press my hub lock button, my hub lock indicator is solid green as is the 4wd indicator light after I press H4. Prior to the resistor, when I'd press hub lock, both lights would flash because the ECU wasn't sensing anything. It works on the KZJ78, so I would assume it would work on any similar vintage LC with substantially similar electric hub lock setup.

A few caveats:
- I thought I remembered the video I saw called for a 20 ohm resistor, but I searched my Amazon history and I ordered 50 ohm resistors, so that must be what I installed. Maybe my memory is bad and the original video also called for a 50 ohm resistor.
- while my 4wd indicator light was flashing before I installed the resistors, I didn't test it to see if 4wd was engaged or not, so I don't know if this tweak was purely a fix for the blinking indicator lights or whether it changed functionality.
- I don't know what logic the 4wd ECU uses to send a flashing vs solid signal to the indicator lights. For all I know, different resistor values or even no resistor at all would work just as well. I didn't want to test it because those are the wires the electric hubs use for power and I didn't want to send too much current through the circuit as I didn't know what the result would be.

 

[robmobile73]

Front and rear bumper builds happening.

View attachment 3564481View attachment 3564485View attachment 3564486View attachment 3564487

Cheers

That's some really nice looking work you've got going there. It really takes alot of time to make it fit that good and look that nice. The price of aftermarket bumpers is justified. You can make a strong simple and a little rough bumper much cheaper, but it takes alot of time to make it really nice and look nice. Those laser cut kits or if they sold the patterns is a really cool intermediate Idea........................I see future in Li Fe lightweight batteries +Aluminum bumpers as a future performance increaser for the "built 4wd" .

 

[sleepydad69]

Does the 77 have the same dual 'hub lock' and 'H4' buttons as the KZJ78?

View attachment 3564159

If so and you really want a solid not flashing hub lock indicator light with manual hubs, there's a mod I found somewhere before - I'd link to it if I could remember where I saw it, but I recall it being a video - where you can wire a resistor into the electric hub circuit where the electric hubs used to be. I think I used a 50 ohm resistor (one per wheel)... cut the wires that ran to the back of each electric hub, used the pig tails from the disconnect plug near each wheel in case I ever needed to get back towards stock, soldered in a resistor on each side, then taped everything up to keep it water tight since it's in the engine bay. So now when I press my hub lock button, my hub lock indicator is solid green as is the 4wd indicator light after I press H4. Prior to the resistor, when I'd press hub lock, both lights would flash because the ECU wasn't sensing anything. It works on the KZJ78, so I would assume it would work on any similar vintage LC with substantially similar electric hub lock setup.

A few caveats:
- I thought I remembered the video I saw called for a 20 ohm resistor, but I searched my Amazon history and I ordered 50 ohm resistors, so that must be what I installed. Maybe my memory is bad and the original video also called for a 50 ohm resistor.
- while my 4wd indicator light was flashing before I installed the resistors, I didn't test it to see if 4wd was engaged or not, so I don't know if this tweak was purely a fix for the blinking indicator lights or whether it changed functionality.
- I don't know what logic the 4wd ECU uses to send a flashing vs solid signal to the indicator lights. For all I know, different resistor values or even no resistor at all would work just as well. I didn't want to test it because those are the wires the electric hubs use for power and I didn't want to send too much current through the circuit as I didn't know what the result would be.

 

[barrett1]

Thank you guys

 

[kgrove]

That was it! Thanks for finding the link. I should note I only used that video to figure out the fix for the blinking indicator light, not the actual conversion to manual hubs. I used Aisin manual hubs and the adapter kit sold at RADD Cruisers (just a spacer, really). FYI - If you use RADDs adapters, I'd suggest painting or clear coating the exterior of the spacer after installation, otherwise the spacer shows rust.

 

[Guyute]

Good timing! Thanks @kgrove for the info and @sleepydad69 for sharing the video

Converted the 77 to manual using those damn spacers way back. My Hub Lock/4WD lights don't work at all. No flashing. Bulbs are good. Has been low on my list to troubleshoot but dash is currently open so this is on the weekends short list. Everything is working sans the lights. Picked up a solo H4 button to use too. But duder in the video says both buttons need to be pushed to activate the Xfer case? Fact?

Would these resistors work okay? >> linky-link

 

[kgrove]

Good timing! Thanks @kgrove for the info and @sleepydad69 for sharing the video

Converted the 77 to manual using those damn spacers way back. My Hub Lock/4WD lights don't work at all. No flashing. Bulbs are good. Has been low on my list to troubleshoot but dash is currently open so this is on the weekends short list. Everything is working sans the lights. Picked up a solo H4 button to use too. But duder in the video says both buttons need to be pushed to activate the Xfer case? Fact?

Would these resistors work okay? >> linky-link

I used a 10W version of that resistor. I would think the extra wattage would just be about the ability to dissipate more heat and shouldn't change the function. If anything, maybe those would better tolerate the heat of the engine bay. I think this is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDZ2567/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before you replace your existing switches, you could do a simple continuity test (should read as open when not depressed and show continuity when the button is engaged). Other simple possibilities is your indicator bulbs are bad or were removed at some point.

Before I installed those resistors, the circuit for the electric hubs was open (i.e., disconnected at the plug near the hub) and the indicator lights would blink when the button was engaged. I did my manual hub conversion because the bushes on my electric hubs were broken during a knuckle rebuild. Broken bushes create the same situation where there is no completed circuit between the button and the hub motors. In both cases - open circuit if you disconnect the electric hubs or break the bushes off - the 4wd ECU somehow figures out the hubs did not engage and sends the flashing voltage to the indicator lights. I don't know what the ECU is testing for in making that decision, however... just the presence of a completed circuit (maybe for a period of time or after a certain number of seconds?), a resistance level, an amount of current flowing to the hub motors... maybe somebody else knows. All that to say I'm not sure what conditions would cause the 4wd ECU to send no signal at all to the indicator lights. I'd check the simple stuff first like if the switch function and if the bulbs work.

 

[Guyute]

I used a 10W version of that resistor. I would think the extra wattage would just be about the ability to dissipate more heat and shouldn't change the function. If anything, maybe those would better tolerate the heat of the engine bay. I think this is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDZ2567/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before you replace your existing switches, you could do a simple continuity test (should read as open when not depressed and show continuity when the button is engaged). Other simple possibilities is your indicator bulbs are bad or were removed at some point.

Before I installed those resistors, the circuit for the electric hubs was open (i.e., disconnected at the plug near the hub) and the indicator lights would blink when the button was engaged. I did my manual hub conversion because the bushes on my electric hubs were broken during a knuckle rebuild. Broken bushes create the same situation where there is no completed circuit between the button and the hub motors. In both cases - open circuit if you disconnect the electric hubs or break the bushes off - the 4wd ECU somehow figures out the hubs did not engage and sends the flashing voltage to the indicator lights. I don't know what the ECU is testing for in making that decision, however... just the presence of a completed circuit (maybe for a period of time or after a certain number of seconds?), a resistance level, an amount of current flowing to the hub motors... maybe somebody else knows. All that to say I'm not sure what conditions would cause the 4wd ECU to send no signal at all to the indicator lights. I'd check the simple stuff first like if the switch function and if the bulbs work.

Good info. Thank you! Bulbs looked good but replaced them with OEM anyway. I'll check the switches next.

 

[barrett1]

Good info. Thank you! Bulbs looked good but replaced them with OEM anyway. I'll check the switches next.

Before my conversion everything worked including lights on the dash. Now the 4wd works despite the blinking 4wd and hub lights. I just need to get rid of the blinking. I'll try this resistor idea. Thanks to all!

 

[Kroll]

Counting splines today. Found some discrepancy in information when looking at rear locker options for a 1999+ HZJ79.
My axle shaft has 32.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Counting splines today. Found some discrepancy in information when looking at rear locker options for a 1999+ HZJ79.
My axle shaft has 32.
View attachment 3565323

Nothing odd there, should be 32 spline on 1998+ 7x, ARB for example:

ARB Air Locker - Fits 1998-2016 7x/100/470/200/570 Rear Differential Applications (ARB RD152)

Air Locker For Toyota Land Cruiser

cruiserteq.com

We stock Eaton 32 spline lockers for the 98+ 7x too.

 

[Kroll]

Nothing odd there, should be 32 spline on 1998+ 7x, ARB for example:

ARB Air Locker - Fits 1998-2016 7x/100/470/200/570 Rear Differential Applications (ARB RD152)

Air Locker For Toyota Land Cruiser

cruiserteq.com

View attachment 3565406

View attachment 3565405

We stock Eaton 32 spline lockers for the 98+ 7x too.

When I was looking at options back in Dec 2022, there seemed to be a lack of consistency in information.
Revisiting the topic now, I noticed even Eaton updated their information charts. Thanks for posing that!

 

[JK FW]

I replaced the check valve in fuel filler neck. It’s hard to get out and even harder to put back in! Anyone know what the highlighted cylinder is? 2 pipes in the bottom and one out the top goes directly into the check valve. It’s solid metal so I guess no serviceable innards.

 

[jblueridge]

I bought that whole assembly of tubes as a single unit.
No clue what all that is for.

 

[JK FW]

Im trying to figure out where the vacuum is forming in the fuel system. I replaced the charcoal canister, the gas cap and now the check valve. Anything else i’m missing?

 

[theglobb]

What I along with my friends were up to, 3 years ago today

 

[ilmmct]

New shoes and a locking Tuffy console.

Shoes: Wanted to bring the truck’s wheels closer to stock (less poke, reduce rubbing in front) and put “age appropriate” shoes on her. Also I needed less road noise, as I run the truck with the top off and don’t off-road … sorry guys there are mall crawler people like me owning the 70-series now

From:
-Wheels: 305x70x15
-Tires: 33x12.50r15

To:
-Wheels: 16x7 (Part#: 42611AD031)
-Tires: 265/70R16
-Spacers: 1.5”
Found everything on FB marketplace and sold the prior owner’s wheels/tires to a guy with a K5 Blazer.

Tuffy Console:

Found this crazy low priced nice condition Tuffy locking center console on FB ($70) and after reading some Mud posts, thought this might fit. It turns out by cutting off the “left leg” (that sits over the parking break) this still commercially available Tuffy Console (SKU: 052-01, SUZUKI SAMURAI | 1985-1995) fits nicely in our trucks. Test mounted as pictured, I want to drive the truck a bit, to confirm this is the best height before permanently securing to truck.

Dimensions from Tuffy Customer Support:
Exterior Dimensions 21 3/4" L (including drink holder) x 5 1/4" W x 13" H, 3 1/2" Holes for drinks
Interior Compartment (Length is Tapered) 12" L (top), 6 3/4" L (bottom) x 4 3/4 W x 9 7/8" H (at rear - tapers up at front)

 

[Billyfj7312ht]

Accidentally bought another roof.
Was going to make one good one and use the other for my camper project but just gunna keep the new one as the window frames and trim are perfect.

 

[joekatana]

Yeah baby , summer started in TX