That must be it! Sure looks like it.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That must be it! Sure looks like it.
The release points are in the notches on the side closest to your thumb. You should be able to identify the tab that needs to be depressed by looking into one of the vacant cavities.
You may try pushing the terminal in slightly as you attempt to release the tab. It could be binding up.It seems like there is an invisible force keeping it in no matter what I do. I will study it some more this weekend when I have daylight and more time to do so.
The tool is inserted from the side where the connectors plug together.Dan, do you mean the latch or tab is accessed from the end where the wire goes in?
Connectors and de-pinning drive me nuts. it seems like each set is a little different
Tearing into mine as well now that the wind and snow has slowed down. Any advice other than soaking threads / nuts before twisting? Are you going back with stainless Connectors? My passenger rear flare is cracked and temporary repaired with rivets. Plan to try and patch that crack…Looks to be fiberglass - correct? What gasket replacement are you using - OEM? If so, do you have a link to P/N? Rattle can touch up…find a good match? Mine are high gloss blackStripped all the flares and running boards to inspect and treat for any rust, replace gasketing and respray the fender flares. Not too bad under there but did break a few bolts as expected.
View attachment 3188295
Here are the instructions that came with one of the SST. Doesn't work for me though.
View attachment 3189048
DAMN! that thing is EXPENSIVE!
@Buckaro You could try powerwashing first and soaking with a penetrant oil, I figured 25+ years of corrosion has taken its toll and I'll just have to drill them out and retap the encapsulated nuts. My plan is to rust treat all the brackets as some of them do have some surface rust, then I will use stainless hardware and antiseize on the threads for easier removal if necessary. I am reversing the 2 tone paint on the body, I really don't like the oatmeal color - makes it look dated and like a 90's Suzuki Sidekick imo. So I am going to bring the blue down to the rockers and also spray the door window frames the midnight blue color. The fenders are definitely fiberglass, you should be able to repair those with a fiberglass kit. FJ73Texas has some info on the fender flair gaskets a few posts back including the part numbers. You can still get the rubber fillers, I plan to go OEM, not really that expensive maybe $60-75 for all. There may be some other universal material that would work but I'd rather just go with a guaranteed fit. I am going to respray the fenders with automotive paint not just rattle cans but I am sure you could do that off the shelf or color matched if you wanted to. Fenders will be more of a charcoal grey or pewter color and I am upgrading the rear mudflaps to longer ones installed on the newer wagons. I am going for more of a modern 70 series color scheme including the snorkel as pictured below. Anyone have any idea what the color code would be for the silver/pewter trim on these new VDJ76 @cruiserdan ?Tearing into mine as well now that the wind and snow has slowed down. Any advice other than soaking threads / nuts before twisting? Are you going back with stainless Connectors? My passenger rear flare is cracked and temporary repaired with rivets. Plan to try and patch that crack…Looks to be fiberglass - correct? What gasket replacement are you using - OEM? If so, do you have a link to P/N? Rattle can touch up…find a good match? Mine are high gloss black
It's a nice kit. We have it at the shop.
this happened to my 86.5 supra onceLearned that starters can weld their contacts and with a carbureted 1FZ, it just won't quit!
That was quite the interesting experience, was very confused for a good minute, thought it was diesel-ing but then noticed a weird whining noise coming from front of trans. Thought about it more critically and realized I had been meaning to replace starter contacts, had no idea it could weld and be stuck out though.
Quick remove, rebuild, replace of the contacts+plunger and good as new.
Fitted a pair of Recaro Expert M's to replace the factory seats, nice space between the seats now to fit some sort of storage box.
View attachment 3192071