What did you do on your 70 series today? (34 Viewers)

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I wiped off the bumper and stuck stickers and badges on.
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Didn't see the old design, but this is a good'un. I like you have the strap continuing a bit past the loaded point.

I've seen many hoods aren't reinforced for a strut they crack, fold or crease over short time.

Good job

Have you thought of struts for the rear doors?
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There is a small black rubber cushion that rests up against the hood at the end of the metal. It's pretty slick. Very happy with these and we only need one design to cover wide and narrow nose trucks. Makes it easy.
 
Will they work with the dual battery set up?
It kind of depends....I think @cruiserdan had to modify his battery bracket slightly to fit. These brackets are probably 1/4" extended down due to the new material vs. the older style that was bolted/riveted to the hood. Perhaps @cruiserdan can give us some insight.

This is how they fit on my truck.....LHD, wide nose.....this is the right hand side. There's going to be a battery right below the strut in a week or 2....custom bracket mounts so no interference on my setup. My LHD HZJ73 has dual batteries and no interference. They tuck up pretty well....

The last pic is the one that probably is the best.....kind of shows where they sit. This was with the hood as low as I could make it and put my arm in there......used my under hood lights to light it all up :)
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Regarding 77 Series Toyota Land Cruiser. My next project is to go back with the stock rims, and upgrade suspension. I need to know which way to go on suspension. Right now it rides to rough for a trail vehicle. Keep leaf springs, and put coil overs in place should do the trick. Please send pictures or write about your suspension setup on your 77 Series. Mine is a 1991 77Series RHD with the 1HZ.

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I have have tried mixing Rustoleum with the paint hardener sold at Tractor Supply. It helps it set a little faster.

I use a automotive heat lamp for paint curing. Works great especially on smaller parts like blocks.

Cheers
 
Completed on rebuilding the brakes:
Calipers taken apart, cleaned and rebuild with new seals and boots.
Rear brakes new shoes, wheel cylinders and drums.
All 6 hoses replaced.
LSPV cleaned and adjusted.

I also learned something:
When taking the LSPV out, or when replacing the one hose, which is part of the the return line, the return line succes air.
When stationary, the LSPV is blocking the return line. It is then part of the front brakes pressure system, and air in it causes poor braking in the front.
This line is however not easily bleeding. As the LSPV blocks it, there is no fluid flow in it. When bleeding the LSPV, all fluid takes the main line. The return line is not bleeding.
To bleed it, one must indeed undo and lower the LSPV spring arm!
Bleed long and with patience; that line is long... That made all the difference.

Thanks to @jblueridge for support and advice. I really appreciate the sense of support in this forum. :clap:
 
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"One man's trash is another man's treasure"
A friend replaced his LC100 Rear tailgate Strut. Minimal work and ready as factory.
This is the first test I using rivet nut. I think i can use the LC100 hood strut with rivet nut.
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Took the Camper truck to a local event....southeast overland expo... this weekend. Cool event....had a neat off road course, vendors, camping, all that stuff.

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Saw a 70 on the way home....

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Things are slowly coming together with the TD04-13bt. All the main components look good, just waiting on the new intake and charge pipe hoses along with the oil lines. Other than that I'm hoping this should be pretty straightforward. If all goes well I’ll probably figure out an inter cooler setup.

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Things are slowly coming together with the TD04-13bt. All the main components look good, just waiting on the new intake and charge pipe hoses along with the oil lines. Other than that I'm hoping this should be pretty straightforward. If all goes well I’ll probably figure out an inter cooler setup.

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Looks good!

Do you have a bigger exhaust on there? What size is that?
 
Looks good!

Do you have a bigger exhaust on there? What size is that?
I’m not sure what was on prior I think maybe 2.5 or 2.25 but I’m going to run a 3 inch exhaust unless anyone thinks 3 inch will be unnecessary. I just figured since I’m going to be doing a new turbo setup I might as well take the time do the whole exhaust.
 
Haven't driven the BJ74 much lately so decided to do a bit of poorly thought through prep work for an upcoming trip to Death Valley with @Dan2722 . Changed the oil, replaced the PTO gear oil, topped off, lubed, torqued, etc.

Then, in my endless pursuit of ever more power from the mighty 13B-T, I had an oxygen sensor bung welded in so I could run my AFR meter and see how it behaves after a bit more boost and fuel...
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...only to realize my AFR meter only works on 12 volts. Will have to figure that out later.

Then, got distracted/exhausted staring this pile of bits for a head gasket job my HDJ81...which will have to wait until my return.

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Eventually loaded up the truck (drink insulation provided by none other than @woody )...

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...and only then thought it would be good to have some recovery points, so ordered a set from Odd Iron / @Gun Runner 5 . Do they deliver trailside in Death Valley? Likely not, so I'll just have to hope I don't need them.
 
I’m not sure what was on prior I think maybe 2.5 or 2.25 but I’m going to run a 3 inch exhaust unless anyone thinks 3 inch will be unnecessary. I just figured since I’m going to be doing a new turbo setup I might as well take the time do the whole exhaust.
So I did and will again redo the exhaust on my BJ73 I have a couple of comments. I'm going to assume that your exhaust is like mine it exits between the fender and top of the frame in right front wheel well then rides between the rocker and frame rail and goes over the frame rail aft of the right door, crosses over the driveshaft and out the back on the left side.....In this pic of another 70 series you can see where the exhaust goes low. With some cut and mod on the exhaust hanger on the frame you can get it up higher and out of the way.
This will give you more room to put on/more solidly mount rock sliders as well.
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I lucked into several 6' pieces of 2.25" flex pipe for free. So I replaced my stock 1 5/8" exhaust with 2.25" and a flowmaster clone 2.5" in out muffler. My EGT's dropped significantly with the free flowing exhaust(50+ degrees) and it was peppy just like open exhaust, but not as noisy. Shortly after install I took it to uwharrie and partially crushed the flex pipe under the right door where it goes low. I will replace this after doing the mod discussed Above.

2.25" you still have plenty of room to work the pipe around. No need to go bigger than the inlet/outlet size for your muffler.(2.5"?) 2.5" duals are fine for a 6L chevy making 400hp at 6000RPM. So 3.4L/6L=.56 .56 X (1.24X1.25X3.14X2)/6000rpm X 3400rpm ...etc.etc... ...Math depending how/the order you do it says approx 2.6" single in a 3.4L at 2200 rpm peak torque is the same as 2X2.5" in the 400 chevy. ..................If you have room to run the pipe there is no reason not to go up to 2.5" provided your muffler in/out are 2.5". I see improvment over stock with 2.25" and the pipes easy to run.............................Often times mufflers have a 2" IO (glasspack cherry bomb IE). There's no point in running a big pipe to a small muffler and add on a big outlet. Unless you just want to feel good about your exhaust size or amplify the sound after the muffler.
 
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I’m not sure what was on prior I think maybe 2.5 or 2.25 but I’m going to run a 3 inch exhaust unless anyone thinks 3 inch will be unnecessary. I just figured since I’m going to be doing a new turbo setup I might as well take the time do the whole exhaust.


I'm pretty sure stock is 2" and the general consensus is that 3" is complete overkill for a 13BT and harder to run.

Generalizations on straight pipe size, obviously for muffler and bends/etc this number will be lower.
A 2.5" exhaust would be good for over 230hp.
A 3" exhaust would be good for over 330HP.
I also see that stock 2" pipe is good for 140HP.

So I could see how turning up the boost and more fuel and a better intake, you would start to see some restrictions/EGT/heat issues on a 13BT that's "rated" 120HP factory.


 
Hoist is getting a workout. Getting very close to its rated capacity. Quick engine oil and filter change.

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I also gave the rear end a bit of lovin, I am quite impressed with the quality of the Terrain Tamer parts.

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Time will tell if they last longer than the oem rears.
 
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