welding T-Case (1 Viewer)

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Anyone here welded a cracked transfer case? Got my rebuild kit from Kurt last week and dropped the tranny/t-case saturday. When I went to pull the case from the tranny, My first surprise was to find the nut that threads to the output of the tranny loose. There was about a 3/8 gap between the nut and the spacer. The second surpise was the crack from the top cover down the side of the case. Looks like it's been that way for quite a while. Funny thing is, it never leaked there. It did leak out the rear seal, but after changing the seal it was fine until the loose rear bearing blew out the seal and it totally puked all the oil out. Sooo, i've got a friend who's a very talented welder, who says he can tig it. Anyone else fixed theirs and put on a brace on them and been OK?
 

Trollhole

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I have seen a couple welded. BUt they both had a crack on the bottom and it was less than 2 inches. A crack from the top plate down sounds like a bad time on the trail. It depends on how long the crack is and where exactly. A pic would help.


I personally would just get another case. They are pretty cheap and easy to find. Most cases start cracking where you described.
 
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I don't have a digital camera, but it's cracked diagonally from the top cover down to the first "rib" on the back of the case. It actually looks a lot like the pictures you had of yours a while back.
 
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ken_79-fj40 said:
I don't have a digital camera, but it's cracked diagonally from the top cover down to the first "rib" on the back of the case. It actually looks a lot like the pictures you had of yours a while back.

Since you're rebuilding the whole thing anyway, I'd just start with a new case. I cracked the bottom and could have had it welded for cheap/free, but I found an empty case for $40 and opted to go that route instead. If your buddy is really good, it may be ok, but I'd still be worried about brittleness around the repair and the possibility of a more catastrophic failure when it goes next time.

Your crack is a result of torque applied to the gears - that's not going to go away. That repaired crack will still be the weak point. For that reason, I'd start with a new case and buy/make a tcase saver to help prevent it from happening again.
 
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If you decide to go the welded repair, please post pics and specifics. I will be interested in how the dirty casting is dealt with by your welder friend.
TIA
 
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welding is bad idea , here's why :

The dimension between the input and idler shaft is changed , hence the crack. Welding will not restore the proper clearances and even tho the crack is not spread , aluminum stretches and that case will be a problem just waiting. IMO it is not good , there is a case on e-bay right now at good price. Or I have an extra empty case you can hace for shipping if you want it.
 
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Peesalot, thanks for the offer. I think you are in Colorado though, right? Shipping might be more than what I can get a case for here. The one on ebay right now looks good too, but it's in Colorado also. I'll have to check with one of my friends who might have a spare case. If not, the guy who's rig was on the last trails cover, Kina, is actually only about 20 minutes from me. He supposedly has tons of parts rigs, and I haven't been to his place yet. Might be good excuse to check it out. I've got until spring to get it back in the truck, but this really ruined my weekend.
 

dgangle

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I ran a welded case back in the day. Ran me $100-ish 20 years ago. Had no problems whatsover and it was broke 2/3 the way around. The orion's are making spare/replacement OE cases very affordable. Some want $100-ish, some less than $40. Look around and you'll find one. The only real preventative idea I have seen for this (besided something else) is the Pardi Plate but there is a whole list of issues with that as well. My cure was being easier as I drove.
 
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ken_79-fj40 said:
Funny thing is, it never leaked there. ... Sooo, i've got a friend who's a very talented welder, who says he can tig it. [/QUOTE

So if it doen't leak or seep, how do you know it is cracked and not a casting line?

They weld pretty well and a full fusion weld would be as strong as the original. If your buddy is going to do it for free, go for it, but I wouldn't pay more than the cost of a good used case.
 
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When i bought my truck and pulled the transfer out i was supprised to see the weld line dewn the back of the case. It held up find and worked good.

BTW i have complete cases for sale...ready for rebuilds:) Drop me and email if you want one.

Stew
 
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madoc1 said:
ken, where are you?

jim

I'm in NH. I plan on pulling the rest of the guts out the case either tonight or tomorrow. My wife and I are going over to my buddies place for thanksgiving, maybe he'll feel like doing a little welding. I'll give welding it a shot, and in the meantime, start saving for an orion. I would buy one this winter, but this rig desperately needs a motor rebuild this year. I would eventually like to wheel this rig a bit, but with 3.70's and 33's low range is pretty pathetic.
 
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Ken,

I have a case(my old one) that was welded when i got it just like you describe. It worked fine i just switched to a 3spd case/gears...it came off a 75 truck...how about 20.00 bucks plus shipping. I can snap some pictures of it if you would like. I am in CT so it won't be to much $$ to ship.

Stew
 

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